Squeek/chirp sound from fan under glove box
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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2005 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
I have the chirping noise...so annoying.
So, Clintoman, did the regulator replacement fix the chirping noise. I'm also consfused as if it's the blower motor itself? If you don't mind following up that would help. I appreciate it.
All,
Well, I finally got around to taking my car into the dealership for this issue. However, it was another more pressing issue that crept up which forced me to bring my car in. More on that one later.
I advised them of the problem with the blower motor chirping, especially when the car was really cold. It's been regularly around 32 (0 Celsius) during the day and low 20's during the night (-7 Celsius or so). They were able to duplicate the problem.
Here was their analysis of what they found and did, based on my invoice:
---------------
Client states whistling/chirping noise intermittently from heater blower motor.
Check bearings
Defect or cause: Noise from blower at certain speeds. Needs blower regulator
Repair process: Removed blower motor assembly, replaced regulator, reassembled. Function test climate control system-OK at this time.
FP-Number: 230-821-64-51 Blower Regulator
Total Labor & Parts: $0.00
---------------
The chirping sound wasn't really too bad, but the other problem I had which prompted me to bring the car in sooner was with my OEM Bi-xenons.
As most of you with OEM Bi-xenons know, upon starting up the car, the lights go thru a motion of adjusting their height based on the levelness of the car. The begin by aiming down, raising up, then leveling off. Well, while driving home one night late, I noticed that my light output was significantly lower. Furthermore, the sharp cutoff line from the low beam pattern was really low. Upon testing the auto-leveling function when I got home, I noticed that they weren't moving.
So once again, another issue for the dealer to fix. Thank the heavens I have the 6year/100,000 mile CPO extended warranty on this car.
Here's what they found:
---------------
Client states bi-xenon headlights are aiming too low, not adjusting.
Defect or cause: check bi-xenon headlamp function. No movement up/down when starting vehicle. Perform quick test. Check operation of both motors with actuation - OK. Check actual values signal from front sensor below spec-is .51V. Check for power supply voltage to sensor - 5.02V-OK. Faulty front sensor.
Repair process: Replaced front axle inclination sensor. Check actual values - voltage from sensor in spec. Function check headlamp range adjustment operation - OK at this time.
FP-Number: 010-542-77-17 Sender Unit
Total Labor & Parts: $0.00
---------------
2 thoughts:
I'm curious to see how much these parts are.
I always thought the inclination sensor on cars equipped with the Bi-Xenons was on the rear axle, so as to determine how much weight was in the back so that the bi-xenon leveling would level correctly.
Anyways....my latest little problems have been resolved, and now my car is back to 100% which =
Cintoman
Well, I finally got around to taking my car into the dealership for this issue. However, it was another more pressing issue that crept up which forced me to bring my car in. More on that one later.
I advised them of the problem with the blower motor chirping, especially when the car was really cold. It's been regularly around 32 (0 Celsius) during the day and low 20's during the night (-7 Celsius or so). They were able to duplicate the problem.
Here was their analysis of what they found and did, based on my invoice:
---------------
Client states whistling/chirping noise intermittently from heater blower motor.
Check bearings
Defect or cause: Noise from blower at certain speeds. Needs blower regulator
Repair process: Removed blower motor assembly, replaced regulator, reassembled. Function test climate control system-OK at this time.
FP-Number: 230-821-64-51 Blower Regulator
Total Labor & Parts: $0.00
---------------
The chirping sound wasn't really too bad, but the other problem I had which prompted me to bring the car in sooner was with my OEM Bi-xenons.
As most of you with OEM Bi-xenons know, upon starting up the car, the lights go thru a motion of adjusting their height based on the levelness of the car. The begin by aiming down, raising up, then leveling off. Well, while driving home one night late, I noticed that my light output was significantly lower. Furthermore, the sharp cutoff line from the low beam pattern was really low. Upon testing the auto-leveling function when I got home, I noticed that they weren't moving.
So once again, another issue for the dealer to fix. Thank the heavens I have the 6year/100,000 mile CPO extended warranty on this car.
Here's what they found:
---------------
Client states bi-xenon headlights are aiming too low, not adjusting.
Defect or cause: check bi-xenon headlamp function. No movement up/down when starting vehicle. Perform quick test. Check operation of both motors with actuation - OK. Check actual values signal from front sensor below spec-is .51V. Check for power supply voltage to sensor - 5.02V-OK. Faulty front sensor.
Repair process: Replaced front axle inclination sensor. Check actual values - voltage from sensor in spec. Function check headlamp range adjustment operation - OK at this time.
FP-Number: 010-542-77-17 Sender Unit
Total Labor & Parts: $0.00
---------------
2 thoughts:
I'm curious to see how much these parts are.
I always thought the inclination sensor on cars equipped with the Bi-Xenons was on the rear axle, so as to determine how much weight was in the back so that the bi-xenon leveling would level correctly.
Anyways....my latest little problems have been resolved, and now my car is back to 100% which =
Cintoman
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chino Hills, CA USA
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2006 c230 Sport
Not too long - and hour or less and I was in no rush.
- 2 screws holding the cover under the dash
- 5 screws holding in the blower assembly, plus one electrical connector
Remove the above and you have the blower assembly out. Worst part is the contortion involved in standing on your head under the dashboard. Not sure how the squirrel cage is on there, but I think its pressed onto the shaft. It wasn't going anywhere easily so I left it on rather than end up breaking it. I used the red aerosol can extender nozzle that came with the lube and fished it through the squirrel cage to the motor shaft.
- 2 screws holding the cover under the dash
- 5 screws holding in the blower assembly, plus one electrical connector
Remove the above and you have the blower assembly out. Worst part is the contortion involved in standing on your head under the dashboard. Not sure how the squirrel cage is on there, but I think its pressed onto the shaft. It wasn't going anywhere easily so I left it on rather than end up breaking it. I used the red aerosol can extender nozzle that came with the lube and fished it through the squirrel cage to the motor shaft.
#29
Super Member
Steve Austin:
No, replacing the regulator didn't help out at all. I know this now because ever since the weather got colder, I'm starting to hear it again. Not as bad as before, but I chalk that up to the temperature not being really really cold yet (only low 30's in the morning).
Now that my car is out of warranty (I had the 4/50,000, plus the CPO 1 additional year or 100,000 mile warranty), it looks like I may have to do what KillerPancake did. At least it doesn't look like it's too big of a job.
Cintoman
No, replacing the regulator didn't help out at all. I know this now because ever since the weather got colder, I'm starting to hear it again. Not as bad as before, but I chalk that up to the temperature not being really really cold yet (only low 30's in the morning).
Now that my car is out of warranty (I had the 4/50,000, plus the CPO 1 additional year or 100,000 mile warranty), it looks like I may have to do what KillerPancake did. At least it doesn't look like it's too big of a job.
Cintoman
#31
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chino Hills, CA USA
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2006 c230 Sport
I bought liquid wrench lubricating oil from the auto part store and it worked great. Hopefully it lasts a long while. Be sure it comes with the extension for directing the spray into the assembly.
http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp
http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp
#32
Junior Member
I also used a spray lubricant, Motomaster "Formula 1" which I believe is a white lithium type of product. I went for that hoping that the heavier grease would remain and keep the squeak away for some time after the propellant dried.
However...
Unfortunately the motor went out on me all together this summer. It was operating intermittently. I'm pretty sure the brushes were worn out. At least it was still quiet up to then, and I happened to be quite proficient at removing and replacing the part!
However...
Unfortunately the motor went out on me all together this summer. It was operating intermittently. I'm pretty sure the brushes were worn out. At least it was still quiet up to then, and I happened to be quite proficient at removing and replacing the part!
#33
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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2005 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
Thanks for the update guys...yeah I was able to remove the assembly (it is rather easy), but wasn't sure where to direct the grease. The dealer said they lubricated the bearings when they replaced the regulator, but I think they're shot and it looks like I'll be shelling out a good $284 + labor for a new blower motor. I appreciate everyone's feedback.
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
This problem is developing slowly and worsening in my car. Originally, like Cintoman, I was only getting the chirping when turning left. Now I get it also when stopping, though it isn't too loud in either instance.
#35
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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2005 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
Mine seems to have cured itself; so bizarre. I went in for Service A expecting to add this to the list. Turns out I needed new front torque bushings ($440+parts), new rear brake pads, brake fluid flush, and an air filter). I walked out having paid $925.27. Needless to say I was sick to my stomach.
OK, back on topic: here is something obvious I've decided to do with my Automatic Climate Control: Turn the dial to 0 and keep it on Auto. That way the thing isn't blowing needlessly. I'm sure the noise will return, but maybe it's just worn so far now that it stopped squeaking. It really has to be the most annoying sound I've ever heard in a car and it makes listening to NPR unbearable. But, as I said mine has cured itself temporarily and I'm just keeping it at 0 and Auto. Which leads me to believe I probably should have had it set this way from day one.
OK, back on topic: here is something obvious I've decided to do with my Automatic Climate Control: Turn the dial to 0 and keep it on Auto. That way the thing isn't blowing needlessly. I'm sure the noise will return, but maybe it's just worn so far now that it stopped squeaking. It really has to be the most annoying sound I've ever heard in a car and it makes listening to NPR unbearable. But, as I said mine has cured itself temporarily and I'm just keeping it at 0 and Auto. Which leads me to believe I probably should have had it set this way from day one.
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
In auto mode mine blows continuously. I keep my climate control off a good deal of the time in the winter, though. In the summer months if I keep my climate control on and in auto mode all the time it has days where it will shut down on its own.
#37
Super Moderator
Mine seems to have cured itself; so bizarre. I went in for Service A expecting to add this to the list. Turns out I needed new front torque bushings ($440+parts), new rear brake pads, brake fluid flush, and an air filter). I walked out having paid $925.27. Needless to say I was sick to my stomach.
OK, back on topic: here is something obvious I've decided to do with my Automatic Climate Control: Turn the dial to 0 and keep it on Auto. That way the thing isn't blowing needlessly. I'm sure the noise will return, but maybe it's just worn so far now that it stopped squeaking. It really has to be the most annoying sound I've ever heard in a car and it makes listening to NPR unbearable. But, as I said mine has cured itself temporarily and I'm just keeping it at 0 and Auto. Which leads me to believe I probably should have had it set this way from day one.
OK, back on topic: here is something obvious I've decided to do with my Automatic Climate Control: Turn the dial to 0 and keep it on Auto. That way the thing isn't blowing needlessly. I'm sure the noise will return, but maybe it's just worn so far now that it stopped squeaking. It really has to be the most annoying sound I've ever heard in a car and it makes listening to NPR unbearable. But, as I said mine has cured itself temporarily and I'm just keeping it at 0 and Auto. Which leads me to believe I probably should have had it set this way from day one.
#38
So you can remove the blower motor from under the dash and dont have to take the whole dash apart and it requires only a few screws to be removed? Is that what is shown in post #28?
I get a loud ticking noise(or it sounds more like when the wheel is spun on that show Wheel of Fortune lol) from the glovebox area. As I speed up or slow down, the ticking speeds up or slows down. This doesn't happen every time I drive, but only once every few days and it's very annoying. I think the air is comming in and turning the blower-events tough my heating/cooling system is off. Any other ideas as to what the problem could be?
Thanks!
I get a loud ticking noise(or it sounds more like when the wheel is spun on that show Wheel of Fortune lol) from the glovebox area. As I speed up or slow down, the ticking speeds up or slows down. This doesn't happen every time I drive, but only once every few days and it's very annoying. I think the air is comming in and turning the blower-events tough my heating/cooling system is off. Any other ideas as to what the problem could be?
Thanks!
Last edited by Ribo89; 11-16-2011 at 05:03 PM.
#40
Glyn, do you think it's the blower motor that's gone bad thus it spins freely as air from the outside comes in? But, if the blower motor was bad, wouldn't it spin freely every time and tick every time I drive as air is always comming through there?
#41
Super Moderator
No. I don't think the motor has gone bad. I think the bearings need lubricating. The noise is just air rotating the blower fan. Common!
#42
Thanks you are the BEST! So, the blower fan is supposed to rotate on its own even tough the system is off and the noise is the result of the dry bearings. I thought that the blower fan was not supposed to rotate when the system was off thus making me believe the motor was BAD. Whats the best lubricant to use?
Last edited by Ribo89; 11-16-2011 at 07:55 PM.
#43
Super Moderator
Try a light grease but it's difficult to get into the squirrel cage bearings. Benz would like you to throw the motor away - Don't.
#45
Super Member
Blower Stopped Working !
OK, so yesterday morning was a bit chilly (34F or about 1C). I turned on the car, then pressed the "front" button on the HVAC to get the blower to blow air to the base of the windshield to help in melting the frost outside. Nothing happened. No noise, no fan, no air I noticed the past few days if the blower was really going, it would occasionally, for a quick split second, seize up then continue again, almost, likely implying the bearings were dried up. But the air always worked. Squeaking was getting more persistent.
The only way I got it going was turning on the AC full blast, then flipping it back to the heat. Blower made some nasty squeaks, but at least it came on and was now blowing heat. Still occasionally doing the split-second stopping.
So I'm off to get some grease and see if I can remove the squirrel cage and get this lubed up. Fun times.
BTW....car is 64,271 miles on the odo.
Cintoman
The only way I got it going was turning on the AC full blast, then flipping it back to the heat. Blower made some nasty squeaks, but at least it came on and was now blowing heat. Still occasionally doing the split-second stopping.
So I'm off to get some grease and see if I can remove the squirrel cage and get this lubed up. Fun times.
BTW....car is 64,271 miles on the odo.
Cintoman
#46
Super Moderator
Good Luck! Hope she has been trouble free otherwise? BTW - is what you guys call Capri Blue what we call Tanzanite Blue?
#47
Super Moderator
My blower motor has been squeaking for over a year now. I have tried to re grease it but it stops working after a few days. Very soon I plan to just replace it they are not too expensive.
#48
Super Moderator
Trey - your blower motor has done good service if you are like me & never turn the thing off.
#50
Super Member
My blower has been squeaking a little bit here and there, especially with the colder weather of Fall. But it has never failed me yet....until now.
I took the whole thing apart earlier today and tried to squirt some lube into it. Not sure how well it will work, but prior to reinstalling it in the dash, I turned on the car and it **sounds** a bit quieter....but again, it was pretty warm outside today. I'll be posting some detailed pics in a day or so here.
Glyn...yes, Capri Blue is the US is the same as Tanzanite Blue in ROW. I think it's only called Capri Blue in the US; even in Canada it's Tanzanite.
As you know, MB has other blues (Diamond Black, Midnight Blue, and I think Black Onyx also has a little bit of blue in too), but they were a little too dark for my tastes.
The Capri Blue is quite rare. In fact, it was near impossible to find a C in this color while searching the entire Eastern coast of the US. Which is why I ended up getting my car from a California dealership and having it shipped over 2600 miles to me on the East coast. Over in Cali, Capri Blue is a bit more common. Over on the east coast, it's mostly the silvers, which I still think look very very classy on the MB's.
Cintoman