BIX with bulb problems
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From: VA
THE C350
BIX with bulb problems
So for the last year or so the driver side bix seems to be killing bulbs. the arc gap seems to grow until it starts causing flickering. this has happened at least twice now and is getting expensive. i have always bought two bulbs at a time. the driver side always seems to start it first so i switch them. then the passenger side flickers some but not as much. then about 1 month later the driver side seems to have the same problem. anyone heard of this before? my next plan once i get a replacement bulb is to switch the ballasts to see if the problem happens next on the suspected bad ballast side or the good ballast side. otherwise i guess it is the igniter but that is just a guess. I might also just buy the ballast and switch it out because i can't really drive the car with the bulbs flickering which is going to start again very soon. also if any one has a list of ballast part numbers i am going to try to get the newest one i can. i think i have found where the date on the ballast is so that is a start. Below "Made in France" there is a number. i have one that does not work in from of me it says 16 04 04 so i think it was made in 2004 which works because the light was from 2004 btw this one was off of a bmw i think.
Last edited by samaritrey; Jan 29, 2010 at 06:47 PM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Trey - as you have mentioned - this is either an ignitor or ballast problem. Which - who knows? I have my original bulbs & everything is perfect. You are running Xenon = present - Yes?
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From: VA
THE C350
Yeah i am going to switch the ballasts to see if that makes a difference. I think i will get both an igniter and a ballast. otherwise i will end up taking the bumper off twice because it takes so long to do.
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i think you can replace the ballast by just removing the wheel well cover. I saw it last week and was within reach while changing out my fogs. Also you can pull your headlights by just tilting the upper part of the bumper. No need to take it off.
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From: VA
THE C350
True i remember when i put the lights in.The driver side bix is the problem because of the washer tank below it. also i have to do it at my mom so i don't want to have to make more then on trip out there to deal with this. i also have to replace my fogs so it would be easier to just remove the bumper to deal with that.
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From: Cleveland, OH
2004.0 C230 Sedan
The most likely culprit sounds like the ballast. If the ballast is not giving consistent voltage, or the proper voltage, this would strain your bulb and cause it to go out quicker (explained in more detail below).
It could be the igniter too, but probably less likely. The igniter acts as a third electrode to "ignite" the gas in the bulb, but once the gas in the bulb is lit, the igniter does nothing.
With age, the internal pressure in the bulb's arc tube rises (heat playing a big factor), and a higher voltage is required to keep the light lit. After a while, the ballast will not have enough voltage to keep an older bulb lit. This points to the fact that if there is some sort of voltage problem with the ballast, it could be prematurely raising the required voltage the light the bulb's arc. This seems to be your most likely culprit.
If you have the time, you might as well go ahead and replace the igniter and ballast. However the igniter will require you to take apart the headlight, where the ballast is just a couple of screws on the bottom on the housing.
Good luck with your repair!
It could be the igniter too, but probably less likely. The igniter acts as a third electrode to "ignite" the gas in the bulb, but once the gas in the bulb is lit, the igniter does nothing.
With age, the internal pressure in the bulb's arc tube rises (heat playing a big factor), and a higher voltage is required to keep the light lit. After a while, the ballast will not have enough voltage to keep an older bulb lit. This points to the fact that if there is some sort of voltage problem with the ballast, it could be prematurely raising the required voltage the light the bulb's arc. This seems to be your most likely culprit.
If you have the time, you might as well go ahead and replace the igniter and ballast. However the igniter will require you to take apart the headlight, where the ballast is just a couple of screws on the bottom on the housing.
Good luck with your repair!
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,295
Likes: 22
From: VA
THE C350
The most likely culprit sounds like the ballast. If the ballast is not giving consistent voltage, or the proper voltage, this would strain your bulb and cause it to go out quicker (explained in more detail below).
It could be the igniter too, but probably less likely. The igniter acts as a third electrode to "ignite" the gas in the bulb, but once the gas in the bulb is lit, the igniter does nothing.
With age, the internal pressure in the bulb's arc tube rises (heat playing a big factor), and a higher voltage is required to keep the light lit. After a while, the ballast will not have enough voltage to keep an older bulb lit. This points to the fact that if there is some sort of voltage problem with the ballast, it could be prematurely raising the required voltage the light the bulb's arc. This seems to be your most likely culprit.
If you have the time, you might as well go ahead and replace the igniter and ballast. However the igniter will require you to take apart the headlight, where the ballast is just a couple of screws on the bottom on the housing.
Good luck with your repair!
It could be the igniter too, but probably less likely. The igniter acts as a third electrode to "ignite" the gas in the bulb, but once the gas in the bulb is lit, the igniter does nothing.
With age, the internal pressure in the bulb's arc tube rises (heat playing a big factor), and a higher voltage is required to keep the light lit. After a while, the ballast will not have enough voltage to keep an older bulb lit. This points to the fact that if there is some sort of voltage problem with the ballast, it could be prematurely raising the required voltage the light the bulb's arc. This seems to be your most likely culprit.
If you have the time, you might as well go ahead and replace the igniter and ballast. However the igniter will require you to take apart the headlight, where the ballast is just a couple of screws on the bottom on the housing.
Good luck with your repair!
i think this is what the kit mercedes puts out has and for the sedan lights i don't think you have to replace the rear cover. i would just have to get the proper connector and figure out the wiring.
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From: Honolulu
2005 C230 Kompressor sedan 55,000 miles
I'm in a similar situation. My passenger side stock Bi-xenon is out. I switched bulbs but no luck. Probably ballast or igniter. I'm thinking about switching ballast with my driver's side to find out. Is there enough access from wheel well area to remove the ballasts or is it easier to just remove the headlights and access from top. Driver's side has a reservoir close by.
Last edited by gitusukka; Feb 4, 2010 at 08:27 PM.
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Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,295
Likes: 22
From: VA
THE C350
Yeah i think you have to remove them to get the ballasts out. the passenger side is possible i think to do but the driver side is impossible to do without removing it. there is a good guide on removing your bumper somewhere on here it helps a lot.
