Advice for cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor, please...
02-03-2010, 04:44 PM
#1
Admin Alumni
Thread Starter
Advice for cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor, please...
My car was running perfectly, and while changing the oil one day, I decided to clean the MAF sensor, too. (Note to self, don't fix things that aren't broken)
But...
I made a mistake in spraying MAF cleaner on my Mass Airflow sensor while the car was running... carryover from the old days of drowning a carburetor with cleaner while the engine was running, I guess. Of course, the correct way is to spray it while cold.
Anyway, although I still get the same gas mileage as before and the car runs without any problems, the check engine light comes on after the car warms up... sometimes in 14 miles or after 80 miles or driving, depending on the ambient temp. Again, no adverse preformance at all.
The codes thrown are 170 and 173 (fuel trim). I just reset them and go about my business.
I've been thinking of removing the sensor from the plenum intake (3.2L V6) and then cleaning the wire all around with the MAF cleaner using a Q-tip, etc. When cold of course. Idea is that when I sprayed it when warm, I cleaned only the front of the wire and it's still dirty behind, meaning that it won't heat up evenly, thus throwing the codes.
Has anyone tried this manual cleaning before? How to, etc?
I'm coming up for an emissions inspection the end of the month, so I want to clear up this silly issue and drive it for 100+ miles before taking it to the inspection station.
But...
I made a mistake in spraying MAF cleaner on my Mass Airflow sensor while the car was running... carryover from the old days of drowning a carburetor with cleaner while the engine was running, I guess. Of course, the correct way is to spray it while cold.
Anyway, although I still get the same gas mileage as before and the car runs without any problems, the check engine light comes on after the car warms up... sometimes in 14 miles or after 80 miles or driving, depending on the ambient temp. Again, no adverse preformance at all.
The codes thrown are 170 and 173 (fuel trim). I just reset them and go about my business.
I've been thinking of removing the sensor from the plenum intake (3.2L V6) and then cleaning the wire all around with the MAF cleaner using a Q-tip, etc. When cold of course. Idea is that when I sprayed it when warm, I cleaned only the front of the wire and it's still dirty behind, meaning that it won't heat up evenly, thus throwing the codes.
Has anyone tried this manual cleaning before? How to, etc?
I'm coming up for an emissions inspection the end of the month, so I want to clear up this silly issue and drive it for 100+ miles before taking it to the inspection station.
02-03-2010, 05:16 PM
#2
Out Of Control!!
Bob, I was getting the 170 as well, but I just went ahead and replaced it and called it a day. I wouldn't trust myself with cleaning it, honestly.
I have read here about people cleaning them like you, and I think that some have had the same issues that you have had. Not trying to be a smartass, but did you search on the topic? I know that there are several threads about it here. Good luck.
I have read here about people cleaning them like you, and I think that some have had the same issues that you have had. Not trying to be a smartass, but did you search on the topic? I know that there are several threads about it here. Good luck.
02-03-2010, 05:51 PM
#3
Admin Alumni
Thread Starter
Mr. Smurf, how are you bud?
Yes, I did a search, but found most of the threads were for the 4-cylinder engine. Trying to cut to the chase on my V6.
Several posts say to just unplug the MAF and see if anything happens. The car runs perfectly fine right now, so I would expect nothing different if I did unplug the MAF.
So I might reset the codes, unplug the MAF and drive it for 100+ miles then
go for my emissions inspection. That way it can wait for it to warm up for better servicing in the Spring...
Any suggestions welcome.
Yes, I did a search, but found most of the threads were for the 4-cylinder engine. Trying to cut to the chase on my V6.
Several posts say to just unplug the MAF and see if anything happens. The car runs perfectly fine right now, so I would expect nothing different if I did unplug the MAF.
So I might reset the codes, unplug the MAF and drive it for 100+ miles then
go for my emissions inspection. That way it can wait for it to warm up for better servicing in the Spring...
Any suggestions welcome.
02-03-2010, 08:20 PM
#4
Super Moderator
Don’t feel too bad, I’ve still some Gumout in the chemical cabinet from the Weber and Holley days of yesteryear.
Could be that the sensor is just getting tired. Before pitching it, how about having another go at cleaning?
Another member and I cleaned his not long ago - it’s easy. CRC’s MAF cleaner seems to work well.
You’re correct that the sensor should be removed prior to cleaning in order to facilitate proper access, and keep the chemicals from migrating down the intake tract. Observe the recommended practice of having the ignition key off and out before disconnecting the sensor. Have to advise against physically touching the sensor’s elements, as they tend to be quite fragile. With the sensor on a clean shop towel, several drenchings with the cleaner – allowing time to dry between applications – ought to do the trick. The towel serves to show when no further residue is being removed. Because you’ll be in the neighborhood, cleaning the throttle of its blow-by accumulations should also be carried out. A slightly smother idle and crisper throttle response is often the result.
Although it depicts an M113, Pancho’s excellent DIY is applicable.
Could be that the sensor is just getting tired. Before pitching it, how about having another go at cleaning?
Another member and I cleaned his not long ago - it’s easy. CRC’s MAF cleaner seems to work well.
You’re correct that the sensor should be removed prior to cleaning in order to facilitate proper access, and keep the chemicals from migrating down the intake tract. Observe the recommended practice of having the ignition key off and out before disconnecting the sensor. Have to advise against physically touching the sensor’s elements, as they tend to be quite fragile. With the sensor on a clean shop towel, several drenchings with the cleaner – allowing time to dry between applications – ought to do the trick. The towel serves to show when no further residue is being removed. Because you’ll be in the neighborhood, cleaning the throttle of its blow-by accumulations should also be carried out. A slightly smother idle and crisper throttle response is often the result.
Although it depicts an M113, Pancho’s excellent DIY is applicable.
Last edited by splinter; 02-03-2010 at 08:28 PM.
02-03-2010, 09:35 PM
#6
Admin Alumni
Thread Starter
Don’t feel too bad, I’ve still some Gumout in the chemical cabinet from the Weber and Holley days of yesteryear.
Could be that the sensor is just getting tired. Before pitching it, how about having another go at cleaning?
Another member and I cleaned his not long ago - it’s easy. CRC’s MAF cleaner seems to work well.
You’re correct that the sensor should be removed prior to cleaning in order to facilitate proper access, and keep the chemicals from migrating down the intake tract. Observe the recommended practice of having the ignition key off and out before disconnecting the sensor. Have to advise against physically touching the sensor’s elements, as they tend to be quite fragile. With the sensor on a clean shop towel, several drenchings with the cleaner – allowing time to dry between applications – ought to do the trick. The towel serves to show when no further residue is being removed. Because you’ll be in the neighborhood, cleaning the throttle of its blow-by accumulations should also be carried out. A slightly smother idle and crisper throttle response is often the result.
Although it depicts an M113, Pancho’s excellent DIY is applicable.
Could be that the sensor is just getting tired. Before pitching it, how about having another go at cleaning?
Another member and I cleaned his not long ago - it’s easy. CRC’s MAF cleaner seems to work well.
You’re correct that the sensor should be removed prior to cleaning in order to facilitate proper access, and keep the chemicals from migrating down the intake tract. Observe the recommended practice of having the ignition key off and out before disconnecting the sensor. Have to advise against physically touching the sensor’s elements, as they tend to be quite fragile. With the sensor on a clean shop towel, several drenchings with the cleaner – allowing time to dry between applications – ought to do the trick. The towel serves to show when no further residue is being removed. Because you’ll be in the neighborhood, cleaning the throttle of its blow-by accumulations should also be carried out. A slightly smother idle and crisper throttle response is often the result.
Although it depicts an M113, Pancho’s excellent DIY is applicable.
