Evolved8

I must be blind lol I don't see it

Evolved8

Found it! thanks Guys

FrankW

nice write-up...haven't seen one of these in a while

Evolved8

I will have plenty more to come

Dr.Fox

Nice write up! I used it to change the spring pads on my coupe...only problem is, I can't get the camber arm to line up so I can put the bolt through again...the camber arm is too far inward from where the hole lines up....I don't get it.

chkoo

r u sure step 4 is 18, i just tried this i think it was only a 16
anyways havent been able to do the front yet due to wrong tools, but back is done !!!

Evolved8

Its posssible, I don't recall.

OneOfaKindTrini

Awesome DIY, I might make use of this soon.

Evolved8

thanks

Repaxx

Hi there! I've seen quite a few DIY springs/struts removal and installations but I haven't seen anything about how to put them back into
strut tower. I cut my frot spring half a coil and re-assembled them but neglected to remember which way the hat is supposed to be positioned into strut tower. Since I only cut half a coil, aligned both top and bottom spring ends where the rubber spring stop are. By following the spring ends, I think the position of the strut hat is now 180 degrees out of the original position. Am I correct on this? Is there any additional steps to be followed before putting them back in? There's 3 tiny rubber nipples on top of the strut. Does anyone here which way they go in? Thank you.

splinter

You’ve probably got ‘em squared away by now.

Proper orientation of the upper and lower spring ends are clearly evident upon assembly.
The bushings' bearings atop the upper mounts (hats) rotate independently of our MacPherson struts’ shafts.
The bushings' nubs will align in the towers only one way.

When they’re lined up and correctly seated, you’re ready to verify final torque on the respective fasteners.

precisionmike

Nice write up, about to tackle this myself. I was also checking out another write up which mentioned a need for a 18mm torx socket. Didnt see mention is this write up (which looks better). So do I need it? Thanks, Mike.

panzafio

Hey I just tackled this again for my C240 at 189,900 miles. It was not easy like the other cars I've changed struts and suspension components. the first time I purchased all the parts online and when I could not get the spring compressors off, I just took it in to the dealer replace front struts and a control arm bushings. I got brave after reading this DIY. I rented a clamshell spring compressor from NAPA and after I fully compressed the spring on the front strut, it couldn't compress the spring enough to release the all the force on the "top hat" portion to remove the retainer nut. With some persuasion I dissasembled both front struts. Also, purchased the upper and lower control arms and outer tie rods. Long story short, the left tie rode and lower control arm ball joints would not separate, so ended up taking them to the Indy Benz mechanic and put everything together and got the spindal free from the ball joints. This has definitely been the most dificult car to work on since the time I took autoshop in high school and I consider my self mechanically inclined. I wish I had access to one of those wall mount compressors to do this job. Will see how tonight goes and re installing the front struts. I do want to say this blog has been great. Thanks for everyone on documenting this stuff.

JDM_love

I remember looking at this thread about a year ago when I installed my H&R lowering springs! Thanks to this thread I had enough information to do it myself. I have a question about the spring pads. Are there pads in the front? Can i just remove them without replacing any pad at all or does there have to be pads in there? Same goes for back?

phister

There are only rear pads. if you don't have them your spring will seat uneven causing it to compress wrong.

JDM_love

Yeah that's true I don't remember seeing pads in the front. Too bad, the front needs more lowering than the back

Jacob Goodapple

Just used this to install KW V1s on my C32 AMG. Thank you, sir

Roger161

Very cool. Thanks.

JoeBlobs

Thanks for the write up my man.

Question, does anyone know what size alan key is needed to seperate the strut from the spring? I think I read that its a 7mm so what is that, 1/4?

Stobbsie

Hi you learned folks

I need to replace my rear coli springs due to some rust. Never done spring replacement, and I will replace with stock aftermarket springs.

The steps in this thread look simple enough, but as it is for "lowering" springs, can I just follow the steps for stock spring replacement?

Thanks in advance guys