Who Has Cut Their Front Springs?
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'02 C320 Wagon, '78 308 GTS, '06 Highlander Hybrid
Who Has Cut Their Front Springs?
OK, this is not whether it is better to buy lowering springs, coilovers, or what brand type of thread.
I just wanted to know of those who have cut their springs, did everything come out OK:
1) how much did you cut (ie 1/2 a coil, full coil)
2) how much did it lower the body?
3) did you cut OEM springs or aftermarket?
4) any issues?
PM me if you'd like.
Thanks
Henry
I just wanted to know of those who have cut their springs, did everything come out OK:
1) how much did you cut (ie 1/2 a coil, full coil)
2) how much did it lower the body?
3) did you cut OEM springs or aftermarket?
4) any issues?
PM me if you'd like.
Thanks
Henry
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Evo VIII/E55 AMG
I have H&R's 1/2 coil cut in front. Rides great. No issues, you can just barley slide an index finger inbetween the tire and fender. (Has to go in at an angle.) I have 18's in the front with 235/40/18's
#3
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My friends have done it on their cars [not MB that is] and they all reported problems with rubbing.
Stock spring is too soft, and by cutting them increases the chance of them rubbing. Thats why lowering sport springs have progressive rated springs to ensure proper travel to avoid such problems [well at least the top brands do].
Stock spring is too soft, and by cutting them increases the chance of them rubbing. Thats why lowering sport springs have progressive rated springs to ensure proper travel to avoid such problems [well at least the top brands do].
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 03-03-2010 at 10:44 PM.
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
like others have said. if you cut the stock spring, your reducing the shock travel before it bottoms out.
So you might bottom out your car, and your also changing how the car handles at the limit to something less predictable.
So you might bottom out your car, and your also changing how the car handles at the limit to something less predictable.
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2005 C320 Sport, 2010 C300 Sport
IMO from 12 years of tuning, NEVER cut stock springs and stay away from cheap China suspension. You're better off with good aftermarket springs.
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2013 C300 4Matic Sport
It's not coincidence how these springs are designed, both aftermarket and OEM. They are a specified length for a reason. They are designed to have a certain compression and rebound ratio. Just know that altering the length of the spring will change the spring rates and characteristics in ugly and unpredictable ways...
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2002 C230 hatch
The key to cutting springs is to first off like most have said DONT DO IT TO THE STOCK SUSPENSION and 2nd off measure 2 times and cut once, hell measure 4 times and cut once and go in precise measurable increments. Yes it will change the characteristics of the spring and that is why measurements are so key in this. It can't be just pretty close because every inch, cm, mm makes a difference in how that spring will perform from top to bottom.
I have not lowered my Kompressor YET but have lowered a subaru and a few mustangs for friends and some trucks and it's all about consistency from side to side.
G
I have not lowered my Kompressor YET but have lowered a subaru and a few mustangs for friends and some trucks and it's all about consistency from side to side.
G
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2006 C230 SS, 2006 S500, 2008 CLS550 Lorinser
Just to emphasize.. dont cut your stock springs!! lol
Ive heard nothing but good things from peope who have cut theor h&r's, i might do it myself
Ive heard nothing but good things from peope who have cut theor h&r's, i might do it myself
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Harley Mac (11-26-2019)
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Cutting springs increases the spring rate, proportionally to the amount cut off. You want an increased spring rate to prevent rubbing/bottoming out.
If you determine that you need a stiffer spring up front for whatever reason (you won't with a stock suspension, these car's already understeer from the factory) then it is perfectly fine to cut a spring. Keep it cool while cutting to avoid tempering the metal. I actually plan on losing a half coil from my front springs (I'll probably try to grab a used pair so that I can go back to stock). It will tend a bit more towards understeer, but I rarely push the car so hard that it would bother me. That's what the other car is for. It bothers me more that there's always more wheel gap in the front, stock and with off the shelf aftermarket springs.
You'll probably want some aftermarket dampers to handle the extra spring rate, but there's not much "design" put into a spring. There's alot of design put into the entire suspension system. Excluding eliminating any progressive rate characteristics of the spring by cutting a progressive spring, you aren't going to make your car handle "unpredictably". More spring rate on the front (or rear) means more weight transfer to the outside front (or rear) tire. More weight transfer means that the front (or rear) will have less lateral acceleration capability, and the car tends towards understeer (or oversteer). Not too hard to predict if you know what you are starting with... which I would imagine a good fraction of the people cutting their springs don't [push their car hard enough to find out], as they just want the looks.
I know quite a few people that have "fine tuned" their spring rates to balance the handling of their car by cutting the spring and brought the suspension link geometry back to where they wanted it with a spring pad.
But what do I know, I'm just an idiot with cut springs
If you determine that you need a stiffer spring up front for whatever reason (you won't with a stock suspension, these car's already understeer from the factory) then it is perfectly fine to cut a spring. Keep it cool while cutting to avoid tempering the metal. I actually plan on losing a half coil from my front springs (I'll probably try to grab a used pair so that I can go back to stock). It will tend a bit more towards understeer, but I rarely push the car so hard that it would bother me. That's what the other car is for. It bothers me more that there's always more wheel gap in the front, stock and with off the shelf aftermarket springs.
You'll probably want some aftermarket dampers to handle the extra spring rate, but there's not much "design" put into a spring. There's alot of design put into the entire suspension system. Excluding eliminating any progressive rate characteristics of the spring by cutting a progressive spring, you aren't going to make your car handle "unpredictably". More spring rate on the front (or rear) means more weight transfer to the outside front (or rear) tire. More weight transfer means that the front (or rear) will have less lateral acceleration capability, and the car tends towards understeer (or oversteer). Not too hard to predict if you know what you are starting with... which I would imagine a good fraction of the people cutting their springs don't [push their car hard enough to find out], as they just want the looks.
I know quite a few people that have "fine tuned" their spring rates to balance the handling of their car by cutting the spring and brought the suspension link geometry back to where they wanted it with a spring pad.
But what do I know, I'm just an idiot with cut springs
Last edited by SickSpeedMonte; 03-08-2010 at 03:39 PM.
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Harley Mac (11-26-2019)
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2013 ML350
Cutting springs increases the spring rate, proportionally to the amount cut off. You want an increased spring rate to prevent rubbing/bottoming out.
If you determine that you need a stiffer spring up front for whatever reason (you won't with a stock suspension, these car's already understeer from the factory) then it is perfectly fine to cut a spring. Keep it cool while cutting to avoid tempering the metal. I actually plan on losing a half coil from my front springs (I'll probably try to grab a used pair so that I can go back to stock). It will tend a bit more towards understeer, but I rarely push the car so hard that it would bother me. That's what the other car is for. It bothers me more that there's always more wheel gap in the front, stock and with off the shelf aftermarket springs.
You'll probably want some aftermarket dampers to handle the extra spring rate, but there's not much "design" put into a spring. There's alot of design put into the entire suspension system. Excluding eliminating any progressive rate characteristics of the spring by cutting a progressive spring, you aren't going to make your car handle "unpredictably". More spring rate on the front (or rear) means more weight transfer to the outside front (or rear) tire. More weight transfer means that the front (or rear) will have less lateral acceleration capability, and the car tends towards understeer (or oversteer). Not too hard to predict if you know what you are starting with... which I would imagine a good fraction of the people cutting their springs don't [push their car hard enough to find out], as they just want the looks.
I know quite a few people that have "fine tuned" their spring rates to balance the handling of their car by cutting the spring and brought the suspension link geometry back to where they wanted it with a spring pad.
But what do I know, I'm just an idiot with cut springs
If you determine that you need a stiffer spring up front for whatever reason (you won't with a stock suspension, these car's already understeer from the factory) then it is perfectly fine to cut a spring. Keep it cool while cutting to avoid tempering the metal. I actually plan on losing a half coil from my front springs (I'll probably try to grab a used pair so that I can go back to stock). It will tend a bit more towards understeer, but I rarely push the car so hard that it would bother me. That's what the other car is for. It bothers me more that there's always more wheel gap in the front, stock and with off the shelf aftermarket springs.
You'll probably want some aftermarket dampers to handle the extra spring rate, but there's not much "design" put into a spring. There's alot of design put into the entire suspension system. Excluding eliminating any progressive rate characteristics of the spring by cutting a progressive spring, you aren't going to make your car handle "unpredictably". More spring rate on the front (or rear) means more weight transfer to the outside front (or rear) tire. More weight transfer means that the front (or rear) will have less lateral acceleration capability, and the car tends towards understeer (or oversteer). Not too hard to predict if you know what you are starting with... which I would imagine a good fraction of the people cutting their springs don't [push their car hard enough to find out], as they just want the looks.
I know quite a few people that have "fine tuned" their spring rates to balance the handling of their car by cutting the spring and brought the suspension link geometry back to where they wanted it with a spring pad.
But what do I know, I'm just an idiot with cut springs
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06' BMW M3
...hey it's a premium Beer ..
Guys,would it be possible to mount a set of 05' c230 SS springs on a 02' c320.I believe the c230 SS(sedan) sat lower then the c240/320 stock.
Henry,I believe this is what you're thinking of doing...correct me if I got it wrong.Just trying to help...I'm thinking it may be better to use a "full" spring then to cut down some.
Guys,would it be possible to mount a set of 05' c230 SS springs on a 02' c320.I believe the c230 SS(sedan) sat lower then the c240/320 stock.
Henry,I believe this is what you're thinking of doing...correct me if I got it wrong.Just trying to help...I'm thinking it may be better to use a "full" spring then to cut down some.
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'02 C320 Wagon, '78 308 GTS, '06 Highlander Hybrid
Thanks guys for coming out of the woodwork. I kind of knew this was a polarizing subject. I know that people have cut both OEM and aftermarket. I also know that no one would "recommend" cutting springs, not aftermarket and especially not the dealer. But to just say never cut springs w/o any support is incorrect too. From an engineering standpoint, yes, cutting them will change their spring rate and the chance of "bottoming". Handling will obviously be affected somewhat but to what degree. I think a major factor is lowering the CG (center of grafity), a definite plus. I don't see how handling will become unpredictable or unsafe. If the springs are cut correctly without changing the temper or hardness. I'm just looking for a mild drop in the front for appearance reasons.
Bill
You are correct. I was thinking the same about the SS spings. I PM'd you. Please contact me ASAP.
Oh and btw, as you've seen Bill is a great person to deal with...got my wheels from him. Too bad he has to trudge along in an M3 now, was that an E46 or E90?
Bill
You are correct. I was thinking the same about the SS spings. I PM'd you. Please contact me ASAP.
Oh and btw, as you've seen Bill is a great person to deal with...got my wheels from him. Too bad he has to trudge along in an M3 now, was that an E46 or E90?
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
For daily driving, it probably won't make a difference. At the limit such as taking a corner at speed or if you lose control around a corner during heavy rain or snow. You want your car to act predictably in order to regain control quickly.
Its just one of those things why increase the risk to your life to save $200? You can buy used aftermarket springs for rather cheaply on this forum.
From a ROI stand point, your life > $200-400 saved.
Its just one of those things why increase the risk to your life to save $200? You can buy used aftermarket springs for rather cheaply on this forum.
From a ROI stand point, your life > $200-400 saved.
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
You won't notice any difference in CG change by cutting one coil off of the front springs. That would drop your CG 1/2"? Less?
The biggest difference you will notice, performance wise, is the change in roll stiffness distribution which changes your understeer gradient for the worse. Again, not something you are going to notice until you are at/near the limit.
The most noticable overall difference will be that the increased stiffness will affect the ride quality. If you don't match the dampers to it, you might get too much vehicle response from road inputs. (i.e. it will 'bounce' longer, with greater amplitude, or in a less desireable frequency range... but that's expected all the same with aftermarket springs, right off the shelf.)
The biggest difference you will notice, performance wise, is the change in roll stiffness distribution which changes your understeer gradient for the worse. Again, not something you are going to notice until you are at/near the limit.
The most noticable overall difference will be that the increased stiffness will affect the ride quality. If you don't match the dampers to it, you might get too much vehicle response from road inputs. (i.e. it will 'bounce' longer, with greater amplitude, or in a less desireable frequency range... but that's expected all the same with aftermarket springs, right off the shelf.)
Last edited by SickSpeedMonte; 03-09-2010 at 12:54 PM.
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C240
You are correct. I was thinking the same about the SS spings. I PM'd you. Please contact me ASAP.