c240 door rust? from the driver inside.
03-22-2010, 08:04 AM
#1
c240 door rust? from the driver inside.
Hello,
After 36 hour rain, having the car outside - I was visiting friends, relatives, and work, I noticed this door rust!
What should I do? It appears to be from the rubber? Or on the joint between the rubber? It would appear the problem came from the
It seems I have several option. Should I seal the seams with anti rust paint spray (the point where the rubber meets the metal)?
Or
Have it professionally done. Take the rubber out, etc.
Or
Any other suggestion?
http://timcodes.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p995303602-4.jpg
Here is a higher resolution picture:
http://timcodes.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p995303602-6.jpg
Thanks!
After 36 hour rain, having the car outside - I was visiting friends, relatives, and work, I noticed this door rust!
What should I do? It appears to be from the rubber? Or on the joint between the rubber? It would appear the problem came from the
It seems I have several option. Should I seal the seams with anti rust paint spray (the point where the rubber meets the metal)?
Or
Have it professionally done. Take the rubber out, etc.
Or
Any other suggestion?
http://timcodes.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p995303602-4.jpg
Here is a higher resolution picture:
http://timcodes.zenfolio.com/img/v12/p995303602-6.jpg
Thanks!
Last edited by timcodes; 03-22-2010 at 11:05 AM.
03-22-2010, 09:16 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 20
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2007 C230 Sport
Things that have worked without fail for me over the years:
Rusted metal - even perforation - clean and coat with POR-15 prior to any bodywork and paint.
Keeping rust out of door jams and areas that can't easily be reached (proactive/preventative) - Waxoyl - is a penetrating coating that keeps rust away. Once applied, it has a slightly greasy feel much like fresh Carnauba wax in the can. Keeps rust from starting. It has been used by automotive rust proofing companies for years.
From your pic, it is hard to tell whether you have a real issue or not. Are you able to pull the rubber away and see what is causing the orange film?
Rusted metal - even perforation - clean and coat with POR-15 prior to any bodywork and paint.
Keeping rust out of door jams and areas that can't easily be reached (proactive/preventative) - Waxoyl - is a penetrating coating that keeps rust away. Once applied, it has a slightly greasy feel much like fresh Carnauba wax in the can. Keeps rust from starting. It has been used by automotive rust proofing companies for years.
From your pic, it is hard to tell whether you have a real issue or not. Are you able to pull the rubber away and see what is causing the orange film?
03-22-2010, 10:05 AM
#3
Things that have worked without fail for me over the years:
Rusted metal - even perforation - clean and coat with POR-15 prior to any bodywork and paint.
Keeping rust out of door jams and areas that can't easily be reached (proactive/preventative) - Waxoyl - is a penetrating coating that keeps rust away. Once applied, it has a slightly greasy feel much like fresh Carnauba wax in the can. Keeps rust from starting. It has been used by automotive rust proofing companies for years.
From your pic, it is hard to tell whether you have a real issue or not. Are you able to pull the rubber away and see what is causing the orange film?
Rusted metal - even perforation - clean and coat with POR-15 prior to any bodywork and paint.
Keeping rust out of door jams and areas that can't easily be reached (proactive/preventative) - Waxoyl - is a penetrating coating that keeps rust away. Once applied, it has a slightly greasy feel much like fresh Carnauba wax in the can. Keeps rust from starting. It has been used by automotive rust proofing companies for years.
From your pic, it is hard to tell whether you have a real issue or not. Are you able to pull the rubber away and see what is causing the orange film?
Thanks for the feedback, I have no idea where to get these items, but I will try.
However, I do have some rust-converter, and a "white" anti paint rust from Canadian tire.
I can't peel the rubber away, I think it's glued into the door at the bottom of the driver's side. Should I forcibly peel the rubber?
03-22-2010, 11:27 PM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston TX
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2007 C230 Sport
The extent of the damage needs to be assessed before you take action. First step would be to clean the area. 3M adhesive remover is a great thing to have around the garage for multiple things, so stop by the auto parts place and pick some up - it is typically found in the area where body filler is. It is great for removing tar and other contaminants from paint surfaces and also plastic, as it is not highly volatile and hence doesn't readily attack the plastics in most autos. Clean the area with the 3M Adhesive Remover on a rag to get a better view of the area. Is there a 'bubble' of surface rust that can be crushed with a wooden or plastic utensil? If so, does it extend into the area between the rubber and door surface? If yes, then you'll need to take a portion of the rubber off to get access to the rusted area. The 3M will be helpful, keep the area to be loosened damp with adhesive remover (may take 5 minutes or so) until the glue starts to loosen. Then pull away enough to gain access to the rusted area. Take care of any loose rust and make sure there is nothing but clean, bare metal in the rusted area. The 3M Adhesive Remover will be handy here to thoroughly clean the surface. Assuming that there is no perforation, and I doubt there is, brush the area with POR-15 and let it dry. While you are at the parts store, pick up some weather strip adhesive to glue the rubber back after the repair is made. I can assure you that the rust will not return if coated with POR-15. Don't get it on your skin, as it will not come off. Unfortunately you will need to buy much more than you need, which may be only a few drops. Best bet if you buy a can is poke a small hole in the bottom edge of the can and pour some into a container for brushing. Then put a screw into the hole in the can and it can be re-used. It is tenacious, and you will likely only remove the lid once, as the lid will be securely glued on after. http://www.por15.com/
Looks like Waxoyl now comes in aerosol cans - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...l-aerosol.aspx
Hopefully you have very little to be concerned about - sometimes a pin-sized dot of rust can cause the stain that you see. That can easily be remedied by cleaning with 3M adhesive remover and touching up with Rustoleum. I would not use the rust converter - I have never had success with any of them. Good luck - it does look very minor from the pics.
Looks like Waxoyl now comes in aerosol cans - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...l-aerosol.aspx
Hopefully you have very little to be concerned about - sometimes a pin-sized dot of rust can cause the stain that you see. That can easily be remedied by cleaning with 3M adhesive remover and touching up with Rustoleum. I would not use the rust converter - I have never had success with any of them. Good luck - it does look very minor from the pics.
03-22-2010, 11:47 PM
#5
The extent of the damage needs to be assessed before you take action. First step would be to clean the area. 3M adhesive remover is a great thing to have around the garage for multiple things, so stop by the auto parts place and pick some up - it is typically found in the area where body filler is. It is great for removing tar and other contaminants from paint surfaces and also plastic, as it is not highly volatile and hence doesn't readily attack the plastics in most autos. Clean the area with the 3M Adhesive Remover on a rag to get a better view of the area. Is there a 'bubble' of surface rust that can be crushed with a wooden or plastic utensil? If so, does it extend into the area between the rubber and door surface? If yes, then you'll need to take a portion of the rubber off to get access to the rusted area. The 3M will be helpful, keep the area to be loosened damp with adhesive remover (may take 5 minutes or so) until the glue starts to loosen. Then pull away enough to gain access to the rusted area. Take care of any loose rust and make sure there is nothing but clean, bare metal in the rusted area. The 3M Adhesive Remover will be handy here to thoroughly clean the surface. Assuming that there is no perforation, and I doubt there is, brush the area with POR-15 and let it dry. While you are at the parts store, pick up some weather strip adhesive to glue the rubber back after the repair is made. I can assure you that the rust will not return if coated with POR-15. Don't get it on your skin, as it will not come off. Unfortunately you will need to buy much more than you need, which may be only a few drops. Best bet if you buy a can is poke a small hole in the bottom edge of the can and pour some into a container for brushing. Then put a screw into the hole in the can and it can be re-used. It is tenacious, and you will likely only remove the lid once, as the lid will be securely glued on after. http://www.por15.com/
Looks like Waxoyl now comes in aerosol cans - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...l-aerosol.aspx
Hopefully you have very little to be concerned about - sometimes a pin-sized dot of rust can cause the stain that you see. That can easily be remedied by cleaning with 3M adhesive remover and touching up with Rustoleum. I would not use the rust converter - I have never had success with any of them. Good luck - it does look very minor from the pics.
Looks like Waxoyl now comes in aerosol cans - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...l-aerosol.aspx
Hopefully you have very little to be concerned about - sometimes a pin-sized dot of rust can cause the stain that you see. That can easily be remedied by cleaning with 3M adhesive remover and touching up with Rustoleum. I would not use the rust converter - I have never had success with any of them. Good luck - it does look very minor from the pics.
