C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Hard downshift when braking, especially in W mode

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Old May 14, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #26  
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2007 ML350
MB wanted $50 for the Transmission mount... I can get a BeckArnley for $20 and Uro for $12! Any thoughts before I order the BA (usually very good parts).

p3
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Old May 15, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #27  
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I would get the OEM one from RM European for $29.66: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._8582EF73.aspx

That was the one listed for 2002 C230 coupe. Make sure you double check your correct part number.

Aftermarket mounts are hit and miss. I have had some fit perfect, and others not so much.

Good luck.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 11:05 PM
  #28  
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2007 ML350
I think the software fix is it. I bought the URO one from Rockauto (they seem to be okay). I will install it when it arrives, take pics of new vs. old, etc. =) I'll make a new DIY thread instead, but try to link or put pics here too.
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #29  
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Installed. I took pics, will post later (dirty now, and want to go test drive!)

Thank you for the PDF!
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Old May 29, 2010 | 10:51 AM
  #30  
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Originally Posted by phoenix_iii
Installed. I took pics, will post later (dirty now, and want to go test drive!)

Thank you for the PDF!
You're welcome. Curious to see if that fixes your problem.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:18 PM
  #31  
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2007 ML350
I still have not driven the car enough to know this is IT. However, how does this Differential Mount look? Bad eh? That IS the diff mount, right?

=)


#2




Moving on...

My leaky Diff! On the bar, and to the right and left (see pics below)




Wet left side... =\


Zoomed in


There she is, original trans mount hiding...


Removed Engine/trans mount... ick!




New Mount! Looks good (Uro mfg)




So how does one go about fixing a leaky diff? I don't think I want to remove it... I've never popped axles before on a car... (avoided).

Advice? I've cleaned it (about 2k miles ago), so this wet is 'fresh' in terms of after a fill.

Last edited by phoenix_iii; May 30, 2010 at 11:23 PM.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:04 AM
  #32  
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Wow, that mount was hammered

For the diff, it is really hard to tell where it is leaking from with all that oil. What I would suggest is to clean it all off really good, then go for a short drive and see if you can see where it is coming from. I suspect it is the pinion seal.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #33  
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Rubbers in general look poor. Why all the corrosion under this car? It it driven on salted roads? Almost definitely pinion seal. The side shaft seal that I can see looks good as does the back cover gasket. Suggest you top up diff & have seal replaced soonest. These axles are strong but not tolerant of low oil level.

Suggest you apply a product like Tectyl to rusted areas to prevent it getting any worse. Any good microfine wax based product with good rust inhibitors will work.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #34  
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It was a NY car (salted roads). Actually has some body corrosion (need to ask MB if there is a body corrosion guarentee).

1) Should those rubbers (mount?) be replaced? Cost/R&R on the book?
2) If it is the pinion seal, estimated cost of repair? Is this DIY?

I also did get the harder downshift again, but it seems much less frequent, and never a banger, just 'felt it'. Could actually be normal, but I'm hyper-sensitive (it used to 'bang' sometimes though). =)

Thank you Glyn and johnand
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