Diz382Benz

So does putting a pully on your car reduce the engine life of your car?

"Not my preference but still a good choice if you want to keep your car over 100K miles. "

TonyG230

Hey Guys. The Miata folks have been using the Aqua Mist system and have it adjusted to come on at over 5lbs of boost to conserve fluid with is 50/50 water & methanol. You can even switch it off for lazy day highway tours, if there are such days. Outland, I was referring to the lazy day take offs. If you don't get the gas and clutch just right the car bogs(02 C230)After all it is a low compression design My Miata has a different feel and never acts like the 230. It is a high compression engine with a SC added. I find the clutch in the Miata to have feel but the 230 feels fluid with little or no feel in my foot. I'm not one for being hard on take off and wish the car hard a 7000 rpm redline just for first, oh what the heck for all gears. I wonder why other companies can rev their engines higher and MB keeps all their engine red lines down? Some of my problem is going from one car to another with different clutchs.

Matt230K

I know what you are talking about. It does do that a little if you don't get it just right. But the extra boost doesn't help this. I have a pulley on my car and it acts the same way. It might be somewhat improved, just because I don't remember how it used to be. But it will still bog slightly even with the pulley.

Buellwinkle

It really depends on how you drive. Boost pressure is bypassed probably 99% of the time you are driving. The bypass valve closes and you get boost only when you are running pretty close to full throttle. So the engine itself will last close to the same amount of time for the same type of driving. What will likely wear out sooner is the s/c itself. How much sooner remains to be seen, just depends how hard you drive your car. Many people that buy performance mods tend to drive their cars hard like me. Since I know I abuse the car more I know not to keep it as long.

One reason I got an aftermarket intercooler besides performance is to keep the intake charge cooler thereby keeping the combustion chamber and heads a little cooler and that will likely contribute to a longer engine life. Also the IAT sensor will read cooler intake temps causing the ECU to increase a/f ratio a little bit and not pull back timing as much.

speedybenz

High Boost pressure are not a problem for an engine, as the higher cylinder pressures act as a cushion for the upward travel of the piston and rod.

What will kill a boosted engine is Detonation. Or timing so advanced that the engien is doing so much negative work that it is damaging parts.

Rods break on the upward stroke during the intake and exhaust overlap period. During this time in the cycle there is no pressure in the cylinder to help slow down the piston, so the rod and piston come racing up to the top of the bore and when the piston and rod stop the forces from the travel are still present and are trying to pull the rod apart. Sometimes it does and you get a nice hole through the block. Very messey.

Jeff

Buellwinkle

Actually Linh started this smaller pulley idea because on his pre-2000 2.3L he was getting noticible detonation and he tried enriching the mixture with a higher pressure FPR but that didn't help so he gave up and had a smaller pulley made. What eventually solved his problem was the aquamist system spraying water/alcohol into the intake charge just after the MAF sensor and before the throttle body. On the coupes, the 2.3L doesn't appear to have this problem, at least on my car and I can't hear any detonation and the OBD2 scanner doesn't show it pulling back any timing on the dyno or on the road at full boost, even on a warm day. I can assure you that if it did I would also get the smaller pulley or water vapor injection.

Outland

What Scanning tool are you using?

Buellwinkle

www.obd-2.com it's really nice, about $120 for a single type or about $160 for all types of cars. I used my daughters student status to get 20% off, afterall, one of the cars is hers. It logs the info as you drive and then you can play it back later. It allowed me to monitor intake air temps to see what happens during 1/4 mile runs with the factory IC vs. others. I can see if it's pulling back timing, airflow over the MAF, coolent temps. Also I can reset check engine lights, look at codes and monitor all sorts of stuff. Since I have 4 cars I'm sure it will pay for itself of the years. The owner provides help if you get a code you don't understand and he even supports extended modes for some cars like on the Volvos you can reset the maintenance lights. You'll need a laptop but I got a really nice Toshiba Portege 300CT for about $200 on ebay and it works great. You don't need a fast laptop.