Continually needing to add oil?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
From: Orlando, FL
2003 C320 4Matic
Continually needing to add oil?
Well, i've never had to add much oil to the car, it hardly burned it, but just recently i've been going through oil pretty quickly. I took a trip to New orleans last wkend, 657 miles there and back, before i went i topped off a quart of oil (as requested by the MFD) and took off, by the time i got there, it was asking for another, got another and headed home, same thing when i got back, needed another quart.
Also during this trip i noticed some very unpleasant tugging on the highway while driving, its really hard to explain but my best shot at it would be what happened while i was watching the tach.
Basically, when i tried to accelerate slowly, without the car downshifting, it would start lurching, and the rpm would literally jump. 3000, 3200, 3300, 3400, as if it were a second hand on a wristwatch
now, in the past i've had the blown valero radiator, which got replaced and then the tranny fluid flushed and replaced, so i cant imagine its the same thing, but i'm praying that having the contaminated fluid didn't put so much wear on the transmission that this is the main problem
ALSO, noticed though that when i added the oil (one time it was at a rest stop about 200 miles into the ride), it didnt lurch as bad, and then when it was lurching at its worse was when the "add 1 qt oil" malfunction came up
any thoughts
i'm praying for the best because i dont have the money to keep dropping into this car for repairs, if its something big i'm going to have to sell the vehicle
Also during this trip i noticed some very unpleasant tugging on the highway while driving, its really hard to explain but my best shot at it would be what happened while i was watching the tach.
Basically, when i tried to accelerate slowly, without the car downshifting, it would start lurching, and the rpm would literally jump. 3000, 3200, 3300, 3400, as if it were a second hand on a wristwatch
now, in the past i've had the blown valero radiator, which got replaced and then the tranny fluid flushed and replaced, so i cant imagine its the same thing, but i'm praying that having the contaminated fluid didn't put so much wear on the transmission that this is the main problem
ALSO, noticed though that when i added the oil (one time it was at a rest stop about 200 miles into the ride), it didnt lurch as bad, and then when it was lurching at its worse was when the "add 1 qt oil" malfunction came up
any thoughts
i'm praying for the best because i dont have the money to keep dropping into this car for repairs, if its something big i'm going to have to sell the vehicle
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
From: Orlando, FL
2003 C320 4Matic
oh, cars at 90,000 miles. Use Mobil 1 European Formula (believe its 0-40w)
Would an oil leak or whatevers causing the need for more oil lead to the driving issue i'm experiencing? the lurching/bogging/jumping/tugging/stuttering, whatever you want to call it. thats my more severe concern
Would an oil leak or whatevers causing the need for more oil lead to the driving issue i'm experiencing? the lurching/bogging/jumping/tugging/stuttering, whatever you want to call it. thats my more severe concern
Last edited by 03MBC320; Jul 14, 2010 at 10:49 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: VA
THE C350
i would look for a leak mine was leaking around the recirculating covers. once i got them sealed up my oil use went way down. i would say take off air filter box clean any oil you can find up. then drive for like a week and check again to see if any spots came back. wow 90k that's nothing. i would do another glycol test on the transmission and oil quality test. At highway speeds i don't think the torque converter could be the issue but i am by no means an expert. lets see what others have to say about the rpm issue.
Last edited by samaritrey; Jul 14, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,034
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From: Corona, CA
03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
i dont think the rpms is related to the oil level.
I was short 1.5qts of oil and the car was fine. Make sure you check the valve covers, they're known to leak over time. You can try tightening the torx screws over the valve covers, some times that fixes the leak. If not you need new valve cover seals.
I was short 1.5qts of oil and the car was fine. Make sure you check the valve covers, they're known to leak over time. You can try tightening the torx screws over the valve covers, some times that fixes the leak. If not you need new valve cover seals.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Have a really good look for an oil leak - frequently what looks like a minor leak runs away with a lot of oil. Is the tailpipe on the car black & sooty with black spots being sucked onto the tail of the car in the exhaust area? or do you see general signs of oil spots on the tail of the car?
Please get an OBDII scanner & see if the car is throwing or storing codes. Autozone will do for free. Post those for us to have a look at.
Make sure that your auto transmission fluid level is correct & not low - How many miles since your last transmission service? If it's the transmission the likely causes are low transmission fluid level &/or TC clutches not engaging properly.
Most likely cause of lurching when you load the engine without kickdown is a tuning issue.
Check plugs, wires, coilpacks & the MAF - clean the MAF & preferably the throttle body as well.
Get those codes for us - stops a lot of guessing.
Good luck
Please get an OBDII scanner & see if the car is throwing or storing codes. Autozone will do for free. Post those for us to have a look at.
Make sure that your auto transmission fluid level is correct & not low - How many miles since your last transmission service? If it's the transmission the likely causes are low transmission fluid level &/or TC clutches not engaging properly.
Most likely cause of lurching when you load the engine without kickdown is a tuning issue.
Check plugs, wires, coilpacks & the MAF - clean the MAF & preferably the throttle body as well.
Get those codes for us - stops a lot of guessing.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 289
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From: Orlando, FL
2003 C320 4Matic
Had "transmission service" (which was a flush and new fluid) done no more than 7,000 miles ago, and how do i check the transmission fluid, cuz in the manual it says - bring to local mercedes dealer- which i dont want to do
i know theres DIY's on here for cleaning the MAF and throttle body on the M112, but how do i check the coil packs (dont even know what those are) and the plugs/wires (i'm assuming your talking about spark plugs, what wires am i checking?)
I'll be stopping on the way back home today (driving from Palm Beach to orlando) at an autozone to have them run the scanner
and as for the tailpipe, its got a lot of black soot on it for sure, but thats not normal? thats been griming up since i got the new tips, gonna check today if i can see any oil residue or anything
i know theres DIY's on here for cleaning the MAF and throttle body on the M112, but how do i check the coil packs (dont even know what those are) and the plugs/wires (i'm assuming your talking about spark plugs, what wires am i checking?)
I'll be stopping on the way back home today (driving from Palm Beach to orlando) at an autozone to have them run the scanner
and as for the tailpipe, its got a lot of black soot on it for sure, but thats not normal? thats been griming up since i got the new tips, gonna check today if i can see any oil residue or anything
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yes, I'm talking about the plug wires - sorry. They might be giving up - normal for age of car. The wires from the spark plugs run to the coil packs. Very obvious once you pull the aircleaner housing off - once the front air pipes are disconnected the aircleaner literally pulls off. If the OBDII scan shows stored misfire codes P0301 to P0306 then the only way to DIY check the coilpacks/wires is to mark them & swap the coilpacks/plug wires from the position showing a misfire to one that is not. If the misfire changes cylinder you know that the coil &/or the plug wires are failing.
If you don't want to go to the dealer then you need to buy a transmission dipstick from rmeuropean or similar.
Good luck!
If you don't want to go to the dealer then you need to buy a transmission dipstick from rmeuropean or similar.
Good luck!
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,255
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From: Seattle
w203 m112
I agree that the RPM/Trans issue is seperate from your oil consumption.
As for your tranny lurching - it is very finicky (from other's experiences DIYing tranny fluid) - if you DIYed the task do get the dip stick and adjust accordingly.
I had oil consumption issues also and it just turned out to be my crank seal needed replacing. Not too painful, but it definitely lost plenty of oil - Look for leaks!
As for your tranny lurching - it is very finicky (from other's experiences DIYing tranny fluid) - if you DIYed the task do get the dip stick and adjust accordingly.
I had oil consumption issues also and it just turned out to be my crank seal needed replacing. Not too painful, but it definitely lost plenty of oil - Look for leaks!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
From: Orlando, FL
2003 C320 4Matic
ok well just went through autozone, and other than watching some guys jetta literally go up in flames (smoke pouring out engine, cabin, and trunk, they were spraying fire extinguisher into the trunk until fire department showed up, and when they did well, the black jetta was coated in white foam lol), nothing good. The scanner said it wasn't storing any codes =( so no luck on having it tell me whats up. Gonna remove some stuff today and play around and see what i can find.
btw lol, "airflow cover" = black plastic mercedes engine cover right?
btw lol, "airflow cover" = black plastic mercedes engine cover right?
