Interior LED's?
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
I'd imagine you'd have to buy an LED strip and put it under the seat in the back or something and tap either into the footweel where the car wiring is.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
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From: OKLAHOMA
C230 Kompressor
I got the blue bulbs in and put them in. The bulbs i got for the sunroof were a little difficult to put in cause the bulb was a little longer than the original but they went in and work fine. Sorry for bad pics it was off the phone
Last edited by KhangT; Aug 14, 2010 at 12:34 AM. Reason: forgot pics
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From: Natick, MA
2010 C350 Sport
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 302
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From: Gadsden, Alabama
'06 C350 4MATIC
Sup man looks like you know a lot about led lights. I just have simple problem. I installed 2 festoon led bulbs for my license plate lights that i bought off of ebay a while ago and they worked fine till the second day. I got error messages and the right side would always stay off. I looked up some solutions and only found a thread on putting a 10w 100ohm resistor parallel to the light. Unfortunately the resistor doesnt even fit in my housing. Is there any other solution?
13.5 volts, 100 ohms = 135 mA
W= E*I
13.5 Volts * .135 A = 1.822 Watts (electrical/thermal)
You can get away with a 100 ohm 2 watt resistor
-----------
If you could double the resistor value to ~200 ohms the resistor wattage could be cut in half to a 1 watt unit.
It all depends upon what the minimum current the bulb checking circuit needs to see to be happy.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 1
From: Gadsden, Alabama
'06 C350 4MATIC
I ordered an interior set in all red. I will post pics if anyone is interested.
Does anyone know what is the bulb style for the under-door puddle lights? I would like to go with a high intensity white LED for the under-door lighting.
I also am changing out the marker lights and DRL bulbs with high intensity white (no blue stuff here). I have factory installed HID's so I do not need pretend blue lights outside the car.
I also ordered the license tag LED lights.
Question: Is there an additional, unused light holder in the front headlight assemblies? I see that there is a black rubber cap covering some spot where a bulb could go.
My factory foglights are futzed up. I bought a replacement set after I ran over an "alligator" (chunk of truck tire) that knocked the passenger side foglight out of the fixture where it was lost on the road.
BTW, if you ever lose your outdoor temperature sensor and the air conditioning will not hold temperature control very well it may have taken out that temperature sensor attached to the passenger side foglight (looks like a black pitot tube attached to the foglight fixture.
Does anyone know what is the bulb style for the under-door puddle lights? I would like to go with a high intensity white LED for the under-door lighting.
I also am changing out the marker lights and DRL bulbs with high intensity white (no blue stuff here). I have factory installed HID's so I do not need pretend blue lights outside the car.
I also ordered the license tag LED lights.
Question: Is there an additional, unused light holder in the front headlight assemblies? I see that there is a black rubber cap covering some spot where a bulb could go.
My factory foglights are futzed up. I bought a replacement set after I ran over an "alligator" (chunk of truck tire) that knocked the passenger side foglight out of the fixture where it was lost on the road.
BTW, if you ever lose your outdoor temperature sensor and the air conditioning will not hold temperature control very well it may have taken out that temperature sensor attached to the passenger side foglight (looks like a black pitot tube attached to the foglight fixture.
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Super Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Natick, MA
2010 C350 Sport
I won't have a pic of the plate lights till after the first of the month.
My car is at the body shop being fixed after a truck tire smashed the front of it.
I will post it when I get the car back.
My car is at the body shop being fixed after a truck tire smashed the front of it.
I will post it when I get the car back.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
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From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
E= (I*R)
13.5 volts, 100 ohms = 135 mA
W= E*I
13.5 Volts * .135 A = 1.822 Watts (electrical/thermal)
You can get away with a 100 ohm 2 watt resistor
-----------
If you could double the resistor value to ~200 ohms the resistor wattage could be cut in half to a 1 watt unit.
It all depends upon what the minimum current the bulb checking circuit needs to see to be happy.
13.5 volts, 100 ohms = 135 mA
W= E*I
13.5 Volts * .135 A = 1.822 Watts (electrical/thermal)
You can get away with a 100 ohm 2 watt resistor
-----------
If you could double the resistor value to ~200 ohms the resistor wattage could be cut in half to a 1 watt unit.
It all depends upon what the minimum current the bulb checking circuit needs to see to be happy.
P = VI
Power required to satisfy the computer = 5W
V = 12V (Standard car battery)
Therefore I = P/V = 5/12 = 0.4167amps
V = RI --> R = V/I = 12/0.4167 = 28.78 ohms.
Therefore resistor needed = 28.78 ohms or greater, 5W
Why would you want to use a 100ohm resistor that can only handle 2W, when the required wattage to satisfy the computer is 5W??
Also the 100ohms will draw way more current than say a 30ohm resistor thereby adding unnecessary load on the battery.
Where do you get 13.5V from?
Why do you assume the resistor to be 100ohms right at the start. the goal is to find the resistance required....not the Power.
Do you know how much heat a 200ohm 1W resistor would produce when loaded with a 12V load??? Especially considering it wouldnt even shut the compuer up because it will consume only upto 1 W. Also would reduce its life.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 812
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
sounds like jcnash has the right idea. If the standard power draw is 5w then you need to do your analysis based on that.
I believe the 13.5V is the voltage from the alternator, which is probably the value that should be used.
I believe the 13.5V is the voltage from the alternator, which is probably the value that should be used.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
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From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Not sure about this....
Based on 13.5V:
I = P/V = 5/13.5 = 0.3704 amps
R = V/I = 13.5/0.3704 = 36.44 ohms
However I use a 35ohm 5W resistor for my LED city lights and my LED license plate lights and they work perfectly...no flickering, no errors. Technically this shouldnt work if the threshold is 36.44 ohms (based on 13.5 V)
Im sure 36.44 ohms would work as well, but as I mentioned earlier, the higher the resistance, the more the current drain (and heat generated). So why go higher when 35 ohms will work just as well?
Based on 13.5V:
I = P/V = 5/13.5 = 0.3704 amps
R = V/I = 13.5/0.3704 = 36.44 ohms
However I use a 35ohm 5W resistor for my LED city lights and my LED license plate lights and they work perfectly...no flickering, no errors. Technically this shouldnt work if the threshold is 36.44 ohms (based on 13.5 V)
Im sure 36.44 ohms would work as well, but as I mentioned earlier, the higher the resistance, the more the current drain (and heat generated). So why go higher when 35 ohms will work just as well?
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 812
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
im sure the computer has a range of error, plus or minus .5W for example, before it illuminates a bulb out. The voltage of the vehicle isn't going to be exactly constant all the times so there has to be some room for fluctuation.
I would think the power rating is based off the alternator voltage because that's the voltage the vehicle is primarily under when the car is started.
That 36.44 ohm is going to be your total impedance. You would have to also include the resistance caused by the led's. So with your 35ohm resistor and the internal resistance of the led, along with the computer's range of error(my assumption) your setup works fine.
Keep in mind this is all speculation, I have not run any tests on this but it's just my thought. I agree with you that 100 ohms is pointless and if the values inputted were correct i would stick with 35-40ohm range.
I would think the power rating is based off the alternator voltage because that's the voltage the vehicle is primarily under when the car is started.
That 36.44 ohm is going to be your total impedance. You would have to also include the resistance caused by the led's. So with your 35ohm resistor and the internal resistance of the led, along with the computer's range of error(my assumption) your setup works fine.
Keep in mind this is all speculation, I have not run any tests on this but it's just my thought. I agree with you that 100 ohms is pointless and if the values inputted were correct i would stick with 35-40ohm range.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
im sure the computer has a range of error, plus or minus .5W for example, before it illuminates a bulb out. The voltage of the vehicle isn't going to be exactly constant all the times so there has to be some room for fluctuation.
I would think the power rating is based off the alternator voltage because that's the voltage the vehicle is primarily under when the car is started.
That 36.44 ohm is going to be your total impedance. You would have to also include the resistance caused by the led's. So with your 35ohm resistor and the internal resistance of the led, along with the computer's range of error(my assumption) your setup works fine.
Keep in mind this is all speculation, I have not run any tests on this but it's just my thought. I agree with you that 100 ohms is pointless and if the values inputted were correct i would stick with 35-40ohm range.
I would think the power rating is based off the alternator voltage because that's the voltage the vehicle is primarily under when the car is started.
That 36.44 ohm is going to be your total impedance. You would have to also include the resistance caused by the led's. So with your 35ohm resistor and the internal resistance of the led, along with the computer's range of error(my assumption) your setup works fine.
Keep in mind this is all speculation, I have not run any tests on this but it's just my thought. I agree with you that 100 ohms is pointless and if the values inputted were correct i would stick with 35-40ohm range.
This makes sense.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
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From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
You can get blacklight LED's...but dont do it man. You will look like a tool driving around with glowing eyes and teeth.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco
2009 SLK 55 AMG
I'm not going to drive around with them on
Was just thinking it'd be cool for the entrance and exits
I was only thinking of doing blacklights for the dome lights only.
So the map lights and any other light used for actual... well... use... I was planning on getting the ones posted here by the OP.
If anyone finds any, PM me the link/post it here please
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco
2009 SLK 55 AMG
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
I'm not going to drive around with them on
Was just thinking it'd be cool for the entrance and exits
I was only thinking of doing blacklights for the dome lights only.
So the map lights and any other light used for actual... well... use... I was planning on getting the ones posted here by the OP.
If anyone finds any, PM me the link/post it here please
Was just thinking it'd be cool for the entrance and exits
I was only thinking of doing blacklights for the dome lights only.
So the map lights and any other light used for actual... well... use... I was planning on getting the ones posted here by the OP.
If anyone finds any, PM me the link/post it here please
Those lights can make even the slightest stain very very visible.
PM user advans...he did a blacklight interior when he had his coupe.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 801
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From: San Francisco
2009 SLK 55 AMG
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
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From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Niice...
I might just ditch my resistors and buy these. Its hard to find LED's that are bright enough to illuminate the entire plate.
Gynecologist MD, can you post a link to the place you bought these from?
I might just ditch my resistors and buy these. Its hard to find LED's that are bright enough to illuminate the entire plate.
Gynecologist MD, can you post a link to the place you bought these from?
