A/C Compressor Removal and Replacement
see page 29
BTW, is it a grinding or more like a chirping sound you hear? How old is your alternator pulley?
see page 29
BTW, is it a grinding or more like a chirping sound you hear? How old is your alternator pulley?
It's not so much a sound that concerns me but it is definitely grinding, not chirping. I'm not sure how old the alternator pulley is because ive only owned the car for one month. The compressor still works and blows cold and I try to only use it while I'm actually traveling steady because the problem is when I come to a stop that it makes the engine shake terribly almost as if the motor mounts were bad but I know they're not because they were fine before the replacement even with the fan on full blast. The engine shaking caused by the compressor even lasts a few minutes after I turn off the ac.
Well, with grinding only when ac is engaged, I would guess that it is still something to do with the drive belt system. You should be able to see the belt shaking/tensioner jumping violently.




Worst part is getting the bolts out of the compressor
I just took my time and removed freon, the metal cross frame over the radiator that holds the hood latches, fan, coolant and then upper hose, intake plumbing including the "wideband silencer", belt, compressor
Now, tomorrow i'm taking it to a local rebuilder and see what's the problem and either fix or get a reconditioned one.
Robert
Thanks much,
-Nigel
What I am not sure of is which chassis it was applicable to

My compressor also whines, but I decided to live with it so far...
UPD: This is pretty similar to what we have in our cars: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=646025
Last edited by VVF; Oct 8, 2014 at 12:16 AM.
Thank you,
David
Last edited by dir1944; May 1, 2015 at 12:44 PM. Reason: would like to add that i live in phoenix, az
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Thank you,
David
I replaced my compressor with a new OEM one on amazon for $200 shipped prime. The condensor can also be found on amazon OEM for roughly $80-90 shipped prime. The only time I think the condensor would break is if they aren't careful. I DO know the top threads of the condensor cap were stripped/cross threaded because of the idiot shop who touched it but other than that there is really nothing to break on it short of puncturing it or breaking off a connection...
I'd definitely go to another place for another opinion. Unless there is metal in the system then you most definitely will want to replace the condensor but if you are good with a wrench it's not a hard job at all. It's more tight in certain places but it took me about a weekend to replace the compressor and condensor while I was doing other things. Vacuum the system then fill with r134a.
I think total repair for my AC was $360, which included the new compressor, pag oil, condensor, and r134 gas. I'm sure it would have approached the $2k mark had I had a shop work on it or took it to a dealer...
-Nigel
Not trying to go against OP, but I am trying to minimize removal of parts that might scare off the DIY'er.
Yes If you are replacing the compressor, you should replace the drier(desiccant), and while your at it expansion valve and also any o-rings associated with these parts.
thank you again,
david
If you're comfortable doing the work, definitely get a price from another shop that does AC. Good luck.




-Nigel
I just removed the compressor after following this guide and am wondering if I could rebuild it myself........ the clutch spins freely on mine.
When it was on the car, and it was moving, the air cooled a fraction of a percentage.
What should I do next?
What to do next--put the compressor back refil and test!!
I forgot to mention that I had an MBZ tech with an SDConnect computer try to engage the clutch and he couldn't. But I turn it with my hand and it turns freely.
If you're comfortable doing the work, definitely get a price from another shop that does AC. Good luck.
I drove the car on ramps, took off the front engine cover, and confirmed that I can reach all three torx bolts pretty easily from underneath with wobble and U-joint socket extension.
Fyi I don't think you have to drain coolant or take out the fan ... this video does it without:
There is also an electrical connector that sits on the top side of the compressor. I assume this is easy to remove once the unit is unmounted and the hose connections are out?
Q: I then have a question about driving with the system empty. I was thinking of driving the car down to an AC shop, having them empty out the system, then I would drive it home, replace the compressor, drive it back to the AC shop to have them vacuum out and fill the system. Can I do this? If so, do I need to put oil in the new compressor before install it because I will be running the pulley with no AC?
Thanks. John
Last edited by jkowtko; May 28, 2017 at 05:32 PM.
My current thoughts are to fit the non-A/C drive belt, 7PK2315, so the A/C compressor is not driven.
I just replaced the seized compressor on my c320. The job was simple. Remove the belt tensioner and drop the front sway bar for access. Undo the 13mm bolt at bottom of the driver side engine mount so I can Jack up the engine a bit for easier access to the rear bolt. Then removed the suction hose from the car, unplug the compressor and remove the 3 bolts. The compressor cones out the top. If your car needs engine mounts this is the time to do then because with the compressor out of the way you won't have to drop the exhaust. The replacing compressor was a $140 rebuilt off of eBay with a 1 year warranty pluz 8oz of pag 46 oil with dye. Ice cold AC is a beautiful thing.
https://i.imgur.com/fNmHi9y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MWzzBBa.jpg
Last edited by tjts1; May 29, 2017 at 06:58 AM.
Reason for replacing my AC compressor was that a seal (front) had gone on my AC compressor unit and started leaking the "PAG 46" oil out. Over time the compressor motor eventually failed (seized).
When the oil slowly leaked out, my serpentine belt had this very light oily coating on it and the surrounding areas. I always thought it was my PS pump that had the small leak, but PS fluid level was never low and never had to be topped off.
my car c200k did not give out cold air, when I was parking my car, the steering was very
heavy, inspection reveal that one drive belt was snapped.
Today, I installed one new belt, the car was running well, but I turned the air conditioner, there was no cold air coming out, I hear some noise coming from the A/C compressor, I hoped I could learn from you to repair it well. Thank you.
I have a 2004 W203 M271 C180k, had it since new and it has not missed a beat. Now i am replacing some wear like, tensioner pulley, idler pulley due to noise. The main reason is the diesel sound my petrol engine is emitting.
I mean this thing is so bloody loud and embarrassing. After stripping the necessities i have diagnosed the A/C Pulley has a lot of give between turns ( as i turn the pulley forward and back slightly the noise is evident.
My question here is can i just replace the A/C pulley?






