Very loud clanking noise from engine, belt drive - compressor?
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hmmm....so if it was the bearing in the alternator, you could have that replaced
at an auto electric shop for like 20 bucks, and do the brushes at the same time for another 20.
at an auto electric shop for like 20 bucks, and do the brushes at the same time for another 20.
#52
I don't think the sprag bearing is that trivial, but, I guess if you did all the labor of removing and install, yes it could be done cheap if you had the alternator rebuilt...I paid 200 something for a new alternator and did the work...
#53
2005 C230 67k miles
Whenever the rpms are low like below 800 ( if I put the car in gear (drive or reverse) and I am on the brakes or when I come up to a stoplight), And the A/C is ON , I get this very loud clanking, vibrating and squealing noise from right around the supercharger / belt tensioner pulley and possible the ac compressor. The entire supercharger and air box vibrates like crazy, and if the car is cold enough or the rpms dip enough, it makes a wicked squeaking, like either a seized serpentine belt pulley or something.
This is definitely coming from the front/drivers side engine area...not weak clicking from the a/c vents that alot of people experience.
Weird thing is, the car made this noise before and I thought it was the ac compressor as it went out and then stopped blowing cold. But after replacing the ac compressor (which now works and blows cold air) the noise is still their and maybe even louder.
If anybody has experienced this or has any ideas, please let me know before I start tearing apart this car.
Thanks,
Robert
Whenever the rpms are low like below 800 ( if I put the car in gear (drive or reverse) and I am on the brakes or when I come up to a stoplight), And the A/C is ON , I get this very loud clanking, vibrating and squealing noise from right around the supercharger / belt tensioner pulley and possible the ac compressor. The entire supercharger and air box vibrates like crazy, and if the car is cold enough or the rpms dip enough, it makes a wicked squeaking, like either a seized serpentine belt pulley or something.
This is definitely coming from the front/drivers side engine area...not weak clicking from the a/c vents that alot of people experience.
Weird thing is, the car made this noise before and I thought it was the ac compressor as it went out and then stopped blowing cold. But after replacing the ac compressor (which now works and blows cold air) the noise is still their and maybe even louder.
If anybody has experienced this or has any ideas, please let me know before I start tearing apart this car.
Thanks,
Robert
mine is M271 motor clk w209 kompressor
Last edited by marandod; 08-07-2011 at 05:41 PM.
#54
same to me!! i read all, i think i have same problem, first step is to change tensioner and idler pulley, then i check also alternator pulley because i heard a permanent hiss (also when transmission on N) press on gas pedal make intensity and frequency growing when rpm increase
mine is M271 motor clk w209 kompressor
mine is M271 motor clk w209 kompressor
problem was caused by seizur of alternator pulley, then belt tensioner go broken and idler pulley was changed for good measure
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#55
Same issue is currently ongoing with my c230. I've replaced both the idler and tensioner pulleys to no luck.
I've just ordered a bosch rebuilt alternator for $120ish and hopefully that will take care of the issue. Hopefully I haven't destroyed my A/C yet.
I'll try to post back with updates once I finish.
I've just ordered a bosch rebuilt alternator for $120ish and hopefully that will take care of the issue. Hopefully I haven't destroyed my A/C yet.
I'll try to post back with updates once I finish.
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Same issue is currently ongoing with my c230. I've replaced both the idler and tensioner pulleys to no luck.
I've just ordered a bosch rebuilt alternator for $120ish and hopefully that will take care of the issue. Hopefully I haven't destroyed my A/C yet.
I'll try to post back with updates once I finish.
I've just ordered a bosch rebuilt alternator for $120ish and hopefully that will take care of the issue. Hopefully I haven't destroyed my A/C yet.
I'll try to post back with updates once I finish.
#57
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't really care what the Benz dealership told you. They are notoriously unreliable when it comes to information. Bosch and Valeo are not interchangeable. People have tried repeatedly and it never works.
#59
Anyway, I can't find a valeo in Canada for the life of me.
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Oh it will fit just fine. It will hook up just fine. It just won't work. If the car had a Valeo one, it won't be able to properly communicate with a Bosch one. At least that's what I took away from the explanation.
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
You mentioned this before. I don't doubt you, but experiences here tell us otherwise. Russell explains it nicely in this thread why C230 owners replacing Valeo alternators with Bosch ones are having trouble. Perhaps if you are extremely specific in tracking down the Bosch "like for like" as Sandown did, you can retrofit. But for the average C230 owner on here buys the Bosch, it physically fits but doesn't work and then they post all the "WTF is wrong with my car" threads about how they replaced the battery and the alternator but the car still won't work. Phil had this exact same experience, as did several others.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tting-out.html
His post:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tting-out.html
His post:
Alternators are not what they used to be,
The difference is in the voltage regulators
there are 3 variants MFR (multi function regulators)
LIN (local interconnect bus)
BSS (bit synchronis bus)
BSS and LIN are used depending on the engine ECU type
either ME2.8 or SIM4, these regulators actually communicate with the engine ecu and transfer infomation between each other, the engine ecu has control over the alternater to be able to control the torque loading for emmision requirments.
So you cannot swop an alternator with a BSS regulator with one with say a LIN bus. no communication will take place. that is most likely the difference between the bosch and valeo
The difference is in the voltage regulators
there are 3 variants MFR (multi function regulators)
LIN (local interconnect bus)
BSS (bit synchronis bus)
BSS and LIN are used depending on the engine ECU type
either ME2.8 or SIM4, these regulators actually communicate with the engine ecu and transfer infomation between each other, the engine ecu has control over the alternater to be able to control the torque loading for emmision requirments.
So you cannot swop an alternator with a BSS regulator with one with say a LIN bus. no communication will take place. that is most likely the difference between the bosch and valeo
Last edited by LILBENZ230; 10-04-2011 at 01:39 PM.
#63
Super Moderator
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Indeed - You need the proper Bosch replacement. The dealer simply needs to look this up.
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Me: Could you guys check my cam solenoids for the oil leak problem that these cars are known for?
SA: Do you have the four-cylinder or the V6 (should have known this without asking).
At this moment, I knew I had lost. If I said "V6", the SA was going to say "It only happens to the four-cylinder". I also knew that when I said "four-cylinder", the SA was going to say "it only happens to the V6." I swallowed and said: "four-cylinder."
SA: It only happens to the V6, your car is not affected.
FAIL!
#67
I have the problem on mine too. 65k miles. Stealership replaced belt and tensioner and noise stopped ($850). 2 months later, the noise is back.
Mine is manual. I get the noise if during release of the clutch I let the RPM go low. Having the AC on makes it worse. Seems the compressor gets engaged when the clutch is released on those cars. Noise on mine is definitely caused by the belt. Something is causing a drag on the belt and when the AC is on and the compressor engages, drag becomes too big, slips and squeaks. The brand new tensioner and belt alleviated the problem for a while, but soon gave in. I worry this drag may cause the belt to snap, which will be a tow event. And I can not continue experimenting with incompetent dealerships. Seeing the results from their work under the hood is disturbing. After last time I had to replace the Air Intake Hose - they had torn it trying to remove.
Please help!
Mine is manual. I get the noise if during release of the clutch I let the RPM go low. Having the AC on makes it worse. Seems the compressor gets engaged when the clutch is released on those cars. Noise on mine is definitely caused by the belt. Something is causing a drag on the belt and when the AC is on and the compressor engages, drag becomes too big, slips and squeaks. The brand new tensioner and belt alleviated the problem for a while, but soon gave in. I worry this drag may cause the belt to snap, which will be a tow event. And I can not continue experimenting with incompetent dealerships. Seeing the results from their work under the hood is disturbing. After last time I had to replace the Air Intake Hose - they had torn it trying to remove.
Please help!
#68
i have 105k on my 2005 c230k and had the same symptoms. dealer found it to be the alternator pulley and decided to change the entire alternator since it is covered by extended warranty.
#69
Here's an update to my issue:
Vibration with chirping noise only in gear at a stop (not in park or neutral).
I started by replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys and a new belt. This did not fix the vibration or noise.
I then bought a new alternator and replaced it. Fairly easy job however there was a plastic piece that got broken during shipment that holds the wire on the alternator, what a pain!!! let's hope the super glue works.
After that the noise was completely gone however I still have somewhat of a vibration in gear but not neutral or park. I heard some clicking noises from my power steering pump when I spun the pulley while I had the belt off, I'm hoping that's not an issue or causing the vibration. I tried flushing the PS system but still having the vibration.
Anyone else have any other suggestions for the slight vibration?
Thanks,
Nick
Vibration with chirping noise only in gear at a stop (not in park or neutral).
I started by replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys and a new belt. This did not fix the vibration or noise.
I then bought a new alternator and replaced it. Fairly easy job however there was a plastic piece that got broken during shipment that holds the wire on the alternator, what a pain!!! let's hope the super glue works.
After that the noise was completely gone however I still have somewhat of a vibration in gear but not neutral or park. I heard some clicking noises from my power steering pump when I spun the pulley while I had the belt off, I'm hoping that's not an issue or causing the vibration. I tried flushing the PS system but still having the vibration.
Anyone else have any other suggestions for the slight vibration?
Thanks,
Nick
#70
Here's an update to my issue:
Vibration with chirping noise only in gear at a stop (not in park or neutral).
I started by replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys and a new belt. This did not fix the vibration or noise.
I then bought a new alternator and replaced it. Fairly easy job however there was a plastic piece that got broken during shipment that holds the wire on the alternator, what a pain!!! let's hope the super glue works.
After that the noise was completely gone however I still have somewhat of a vibration in gear but not neutral or park. I heard some clicking noises from my power steering pump when I spun the pulley while I had the belt off, I'm hoping that's not an issue or causing the vibration. I tried flushing the PS system but still having the vibration.
Anyone else have any other suggestions for the slight vibration?
Thanks,
Nick
Vibration with chirping noise only in gear at a stop (not in park or neutral).
I started by replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys and a new belt. This did not fix the vibration or noise.
I then bought a new alternator and replaced it. Fairly easy job however there was a plastic piece that got broken during shipment that holds the wire on the alternator, what a pain!!! let's hope the super glue works.
After that the noise was completely gone however I still have somewhat of a vibration in gear but not neutral or park. I heard some clicking noises from my power steering pump when I spun the pulley while I had the belt off, I'm hoping that's not an issue or causing the vibration. I tried flushing the PS system but still having the vibration.
Anyone else have any other suggestions for the slight vibration?
Thanks,
Nick
#72
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Black on Black stock ' 03 C32
Hello all,
I think this is the best thread to post this one in:
I've had a light 'scraping sound' from the front of my engine ('03 C32), and mechanics have told me it's the S/C bearing/clutch, but I just couldn't afford the $1500, so I've been driving it still. WEll the noise was getting progressively worse, but only when engine was cold ( I saw it posted earlier, when it warms up, the bearing expands and seats tighter), well it ghad just about gone away completely until today...started getting bad with the quickness, and then I suddenly noticed my A/C output air was warm. pulled over and saw teh A/C pully practically dancing on the belt, and teh noise is from the rattle back and forth.
Mech 1) says over the pnone, whole a/c system $950 bc clutch is internal, has to replace compressor, and once you open the system...blah, blah, blah
Mech 2) says "he'll take a look at it" ...much better response.
I managed to drive home, and Mech 2 says to bring it in tomorrow, but I don't think I want to chance driving it another 25 miles, as the sound was getting progressively worse as I got home, probably should tow.
I looked up clutches and bearing on parts websites, and there are many.
Before this, the A/C had no problems, leakage or temperature-wise, so I'm hoping it's just the bearing/pulley. The pulley is literally dancing around the A/C compressor, with the only thing keeping it line it looks like is the main belt, as teh center part is stationary.
Does that seem like a pully/bearing only situation? (which after reading this thread, on this most excellent of forums, bc of you most excellent of participants, seems to be the case)
or Does the "dancing ring" and stationary center hub mean damage beyond the pulley and bearing, ie no hope for clutch and compressor?
Anybody know/recommend which pulley/bearing, bc on the parts websites, there are several pages of them that supposedly all fit my car, yet look different, prices varies from $60 to $hundreds and some "also fit" a lot of american car models (??).
(req'd dumb question
You think I could drive it in, (about 20 miles) or is the risk catastrophic?
I think this is the best thread to post this one in:
I've had a light 'scraping sound' from the front of my engine ('03 C32), and mechanics have told me it's the S/C bearing/clutch, but I just couldn't afford the $1500, so I've been driving it still. WEll the noise was getting progressively worse, but only when engine was cold ( I saw it posted earlier, when it warms up, the bearing expands and seats tighter), well it ghad just about gone away completely until today...started getting bad with the quickness, and then I suddenly noticed my A/C output air was warm. pulled over and saw teh A/C pully practically dancing on the belt, and teh noise is from the rattle back and forth.
Mech 1) says over the pnone, whole a/c system $950 bc clutch is internal, has to replace compressor, and once you open the system...blah, blah, blah
Mech 2) says "he'll take a look at it" ...much better response.
I managed to drive home, and Mech 2 says to bring it in tomorrow, but I don't think I want to chance driving it another 25 miles, as the sound was getting progressively worse as I got home, probably should tow.
I looked up clutches and bearing on parts websites, and there are many.
Before this, the A/C had no problems, leakage or temperature-wise, so I'm hoping it's just the bearing/pulley. The pulley is literally dancing around the A/C compressor, with the only thing keeping it line it looks like is the main belt, as teh center part is stationary.
Does that seem like a pully/bearing only situation? (which after reading this thread, on this most excellent of forums, bc of you most excellent of participants, seems to be the case)
or Does the "dancing ring" and stationary center hub mean damage beyond the pulley and bearing, ie no hope for clutch and compressor?
Anybody know/recommend which pulley/bearing, bc on the parts websites, there are several pages of them that supposedly all fit my car, yet look different, prices varies from $60 to $hundreds and some "also fit" a lot of american car models (??).
(req'd dumb question
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#73
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Mercedes C230 SS Komp
Jay
#74
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gawd, people just throw money at bad mechanics.
It's amazing how FEW problems I've had since I stopped letting the dealer touch my car.
I used to find they'd break more than they'd fix when it was under warranty.
I should open a small shop, for 'exclusive' clientele, charge a little extra and do it right the 1st time.
$850 to replace a tensioner and pulley?
Seriously? I can do that in about 1/2 hour with a beer in one hand.
15 minutes if I use both hands and YOU hold the beer for me.
5 minutes if I forgo the beer since most of my labor would have been in drinking the beer.
BURP!
The tensioners are about $100, the pullies ~50-75.
I did mine once. ASP pulley tends to make them go out it seems like.
I could use another one, but don't feel like spending the money now.
Only does it at cold idle.
It's amazing how FEW problems I've had since I stopped letting the dealer touch my car.
I used to find they'd break more than they'd fix when it was under warranty.
I should open a small shop, for 'exclusive' clientele, charge a little extra and do it right the 1st time.
$850 to replace a tensioner and pulley?
Seriously? I can do that in about 1/2 hour with a beer in one hand.
15 minutes if I use both hands and YOU hold the beer for me.
5 minutes if I forgo the beer since most of my labor would have been in drinking the beer.
BURP!
The tensioners are about $100, the pullies ~50-75.
I did mine once. ASP pulley tends to make them go out it seems like.
I could use another one, but don't feel like spending the money now.
Only does it at cold idle.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-21-2012 at 04:26 AM.