I think the one you car missing is gear or something not motor, right hand side one is for sun shade and left hand side one is for sunroof. By guessing, from your picture, motor is sitting in the middle.

My car's sunshade is working but sunroof is making grinding noise.

I think you can get the used part from ebay or some local company. I from Australia, i brought a used part from local car wrecking business. Not cheap, but at least you can get some part you need.

Motors just plug in. There should be a connector on the harness that matches the connector for the sunshade (the motors are interchangeable).

I would definitely buy a new motor from a dealer. Too easy to get a motor that has been abused or is near EOL. I live a long way from the nearest dealer, so I usually buy online. I've had good results with genuinemercedesparts.com.

Since your sunshade seems to work even with the roof motor missing (I didn't think the system would sych with just one motor, but it sounds like it does) and if you don't care if the sunshade works or not, you might want to consider just switching the sunshade motor over to the pano roof spot. Personally, I rarely use my sunshade, but I don't live where it gets very warm.

Since you don't know the history of the roof, I would inspect the cables carefully to see if they're damaged before installing the motor. And then I'd crank the roof open or closed manually before trying to run the motor. If there is an alignment problem, you'll feel and hear the gear slipping before doing too much damage to the cable and/or motor pinion gear. And you can also check how easily the roof opens or closes at the same time. If it's too hard, you're going to stress something (usually the pinion gear) too much over time. That's what happened to me.

Hi, all. I'm back after about 10 years. Still driving my '02.

I've read through all this and some other threads, but can't find anything on-point to my question...

When I take the motor out, I can see how the wound cables mesh with the motor pinion gear and all. But when I try to manually move the cables in their tracks, with or without the glass installed, they are very hard to move. And with the roof together, I can barely crank the roof open or closed. The wrench even starts to twist in my hand. It is clear to me that the lubricant in the cable guides, and maybe the side rails as well, has hardened or gotten loaded with grime.

Has anyone pulled this completely apart and cleaned and lubricated the cable guide and side rails? If so, any suggestions? What lube did you use during re-assembly, and how did you decide on that one in particular?

Thanks in advance!

Even with the rails removed from the car you will find it is very hard to move the cables.
When the whole thing is put together it takes a tremendous amount of torque to move the roof panel, thats why the stuff wears out.

The problem is not usually with the rails, unless something plastic breaks on the rails.
The problem is in the cross tubes where the motors mount, the pot metal wears out where the motor pinion gear and the cable do the work...

You can change the cross tubes in the car with the rails still in place, I have done this...

Are there any write ups on how to replace the cross tubes that you know of?

Not that I know of, but you can replace the cross tubes in the car with the rails still in the car....I have done it.

Well, I finally have encoutered an issue with my Sunroof.
Looks like Dave sold his C230. Dave you still around?
Glad this thread exists and I took the time to extract the docs.
Still not clear on what these cross tubes are.

Getting a a horrible noise when closing,
though thankfully it did close.
Guess I'll try the washer fix.

I had exactly the same problem with my 2005 C230K that I got a month ago. Just a grinding noise. I manged to start closing the visor with the hand-crank. After that I can open or close it with the motor. But the sunroof does not open with hand-crank and only the grinding noise with the motor. Do not need more sun anyway here in southern Arizona.

I did the washer fix and it worked, though I needed 2 washers vs. 1.

New member here, and a new to me 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe.

My roof only runs in one second spurts.
The sunblind closes fully in one smooth motion, but the other way is one second, stop, press button again, one second stop, and so on. So I have to press the button about ten times to open the blind.

However the roof doesn't open. no movement.

So I took the roof panel off, lubed everything up, put it back in, still the same. Then I swapped the wires, unplugged the blind motor, and plugged in the roof motor.

Ah, now the roof works great, again, in one direction. The other direction is exactly like the blind was, one second at a time, press again, another one second. And so on, one second at a time.

Have any of you seen this? It leads me to think it may be the control module that is faulty. The actual roof light assembly.

Any thoughts?

Its fine. look up how to reset your car after loss of power.

Thank you

I am reading the owners manual instructions on Synching over and over, but the roof doesn't move, how do sync it?

Insame1

Thank you, I put the wires back the way they should be, tried the sync procedure again.

It didn't really do the automatic open at the end, like it says in the manual, but the end result is that the roof is working perfectly.

Wow, I am happy.

hello all,

My c200 coupe kompressor 2005 sunroof got damaged. i pulled everything out and found out the coupling attached with sunroof cable is broken. and also the back shade coupling broken.

My question: am i able to purchase the couplings attached to the cable by itself?

regards

Good question for the dealer. Get the pn's and then purchase online.
Send me a pm if you want the WIS docs. And include an email address.

The blind rear couplings are available as separate parts, as they are not attached to the cables. The front couplings are part of the cables and can not be purchased separately. They are manufactured as one piece with the cable. BTW, my dealer quoted around $2500 to replace the cables after I broke my front and rear couplings. I ended up doing it myself. The parts were around $200 for two cables and two couplings. If you've read through the threads on this, you would've seen that it's quite a job. You have to lower the headliner, take out the pano glass, take out the motors, loosen the guide tubes and loosen the rails to get the cables and couplings out.

Well I decided I didn't have enough grief in my life so I bought another C230 Coupe, a 2005.
The sunroof worked for the 1st week :-(
So I'll be bring this thread back with what I find to fix this sunroof.

Edit, turned out to be glass stuck to the seal... easy fix.

Side note did anyone else know face lifted 2005 had staggered rims?
Technical data Rims and Tires
Model C 230 Kompressor Sport C 320 Sport

Front axle:
Rims (light alloy) 71/2 J x 17 H2
Wheel offset 1.42 in (36 mm)
Summer tires (radial-ply tires) 225/45 R17 91W
Rear axle:
Rims (light alloy) 81/2 J x 17 H2
Wheel offset 1.34 in (34 mm)
Summer tires (radial-ply tires) 245/40 R17 91W1

Hi,
first thank you, you guys saved me around £600 ( UK ) on a panoramic sunroof repair and a lot of agg. ( problems ). Just to add to the discussion, I have had my w203 sport coupe for nearly 10 years and no probs at all, but recently the dreaded 'grinding' occurred.
I managed to sort mine in following order.
1/ the moment the grinding occurs STOP USING THE ROOF !!!!! , close roof manually using hex driver direct into the motor housing. If you keep pushing the button you will just grind more metal off the gears.
2/ read this post from cover to cover and fully understand what has happened. Look at the pictures and get help if needed.
3/ I first tried adding xtra washers to mounting points, but this didn't work for me as wasn't enough to push the drive gear right into the roof worm gear.
4/ I did not remove my roof lining ( I have light grey alpaca interior !! ), but I did make a small hole in lining to match up with the hidden retaining bolt and used an angled hex key for the other, takes a while but reduces issues with removing headlining and c/piller covers.
5/ I looked at all the pics and decided real issues was the drive gear dropping down 1-2 mm and the not messing properly with the roof worm gear ( hence grinding noise )
6/ my solution was to fit 4 greased washers on the hex drive end of the plastic gear which sit inside the housing and pushes the gear up inside the housing, meaning the main drive gear sits proud by 1-2 mm which is where it needs to be, this also means no additional metalwork etc. is required and has produced a good strong connection with the worm drive gears.
7/ the third bolt holding the assembly is not really needed as the two bolts either side of the drive gear actually are doing most of the work to hold the gear in place. ( prob best to replace, but I have left mine out and all appears fine )
8/ open the roof manually for the first time using the hex driver directly into the motor mount and then clean and lubricate the rails. Dirty/sticky rails is probably what caused the extra load that bent the motor housing leading to gears not meshing properly.

If what i've said makes some sense to someone and you want pics I will add a full explanation of my slightly modified solution.

Again thank you all for your shared information

Pics please? I'd really like to see how you put those washers in there. I did the one washer trick on the bolt and then recently the sunroof finally gave up the ghost. I was lucky to even get it to close. And so I since haven't messed with it at all and disconnected the motor. It took two people to close it one turning the crank by hand and one pushing on the glass. Very scary was afraid it would not close. I'd like to try your solution if you wouldn't mind posting a photo of where you put those washers or a drawing even because I'm not really picturing it in my mind's eye. Did you have to take the motor apart?

Ok will do my best to explain in pics ... hope this helps.







you need just a little play once washers are fitted

Hi, sorry if I have added something thats not suitable, I was just pleased you guys shared the info and I didn't have the facilities to make the strengthening plate so came up with a variation that kind of compensated for the warping. I totally accept this is not a sound permanent fix, but I added what I did in good faith.

Hi, the fact you had someone pushing on the roof whilst you hand cranked it sounds like the rails or something else is really 'binding' or tight. Mine shuts by hand with not too much effort. You probably need to make sure those rails are cleaned and lubed otherwise the extra strain will break stuff again, as 'drb930' says my solution even if it works is only really a temporary fix as its the weak housing and sticky tracks that causes the problem. Good luck with getting it sorted, you guys got me out of a hole.

Hi, I am new to this Forum. Thank you so much for this and for adding the pictures. I can see how this may not be a permanent fix, but it will work for now. Once winter comes and I won't really be opening it, I can work on making a plate as David made. I really don't have the tools nor the expertise to make this plate, but I may have some friends who can do it. Again, the washer fix may get my glass working for now while the weather is still nice. What a great idea.

Also, I, not knowing any better, purchased a working right side (sunscreen) motor for a really good price, Am I correct in reading that I can put this motor on the left side and it will allow my glass to open? I have located some of the correct Part # on eBay, but I'd rather not spend more money if I can use the washer fix OR put the "wrong motor" on the left and still have my glass operate.

One more thing... I tried to open my glass manually and it's not budging. I may have another issue or it may be stuck from not being opened in quite a while. I just bought the car and the issue was never fixed. I am not sure how long it has been sitting unopened. I do know that my motor gears are out of alignment because I am getting the awful machine gun sound. I've added the spring washers as well, and that did not help at all. I have a feeling now that my plate must be warped.

CrossfireDiva,

1/ I would not install the spare motor, if you are getting a grinding noise then the old motor is turning and the new one from the blinds side may not be as powerful.
2/ you need to free up the roof, its probably stuck to the rubber seals as it has not been opened for so long, maybe spray some wd40 or rubber lubricant along the edges and leave for a while.
3/ open manually using the hex key into the motor mount, don't use the electrics until you can open manually otherwise you may just grind more metal off the gears.

mine still working fine with the washers added, plus plenty of good quality grease on the rails. Its those sticky/dirty rails that add to the load that causes the warping in my opinion.
Good luck getting sorted, look on bright side, even if you can't open it its still nice to have a glass roof


See instructions for opening manually using a hex key or driver. Apply steady firm pressure it needs reasonable force also apply upward force, because its this gear that has dropped down and is not meshing properly. Once open first job is to 'GREASE THOSE RAILS'






you can use a 'HEX' drive like ones below in the red circle if you don't have the Mercedes tool.