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My car died this afternoon. After reading all these post I am still uncertain what the issue could be. I tested the battery and it seems fine. All the lights are working. I don't have another set of keys. I just had my oil changed done last week.
The car doesn't seem to turn over. I had it towed and frustrated with what the issue could be. I don't want to spend tons of money.... help!
After reading all the post on possible issues. I thought it could be the CPS. (crank position sensor) and then after reading further.... it could also be something else.
Please help!
p.s @burtonite why did you change the fuse 52 with a 20A and not the 15A? just curious.
I really don't know why. I had read that way and changed with 20A and it solved my problem. Maybe changing with 15A would solve it too. Did you already try changing it before towing your car?
I really don't know why. I had read that way and changed with 20A and it solved my problem. Maybe changing with 15A would solve it too. Did you already try changing it before towing your car?
I was stranded so I had to just get the car towed. Do you by chance know where and what kind of fuse I can purchase this at? Is it available at most auto parts store?
My intermittent start was caused by faulty starter relay (don't remember which one, a little "ice cube" sized one, under the hood, drivers side) It was either a bad coil or burned contacts. One clue was, when turning the key on, the rad fan started up, after replacing the relay it didn't. Fixed 8 months ago, still good...
My intermittent start was caused by faulty starter relay (don't remember which one, a little "ice cube" sized one, under the hood, drivers side) It was either a bad coil or burned contacts. One clue was, when turning the key on, the rad fan started up, after replacing the relay it didn't. Fixed 8 months ago, still good...
@bobsvilla thanks for the reply. When turning to start the car, no fan started up. It just sounds like it wants to start but it's not turning.
Newbie here to add to the thread.
I had a similar problem with a WDB 203 MB C200 Kompressor and checked all the above, many thanks, only to find out that the starter brushes were completely worn and this happened without any prior indication, like the starter motor dragging etc. What I would term as "sudden death". The day before all was well started and did my business and next morning, the starter won't even give a sound or turn at all.
Hope this is of some help.
Thanks
Hello wondering if you can PLEASE help me solve this issued.
I have 2004 Benz c240 When the ignition is turned to the last position the car simply don’t clicks or start, and has all indications that battery is working, headlights, radio, sunroof works.
At first i checked the starter fuse, and the starter Relay and both of them is good.
I bought a new battery and still doesn’t start, I can’t even hear the click coming from the starter.
Last edited by Amaurym1970; 12-14-2016 at 12:58 PM.
I'm sorry i'm new in MBWorld.
I took the car to the shop so that they can work on the transmission and after that thats when it happen.
when the car is cold doesn't start but when is hot start all the time.
You think they did something to it.
Hi, I have searched the forum and other websites trying to find guidance on my problem but none of the information has helped to solve it. I am the owner of a 2003 C240 sedan which was running fine until a week ago. I do not use the vehicle that much but keep the battery charged to avoid the problems when the battery dies on these vehicles.
That day I had to go to the store about a mile from my house and decided to take it for a ride. The car started right up, went to the store and the car behaved normally; got out of the store and the car started right up again and had no issues going back home.
When I got home and pulled on the driveway, my garage remote would not work, not the one in the vehicle, because I have been not able to get it programmed; by the way, before heading to the store, I spent about 10 minutes trying to program it with no luck, Apparently the remote ran out of battery from trying to program the one in the car. I turned the car off to go inside the house to open the garage, right then my wife was getting home, I went back to my car and signaled her to open the garage, when she did, I turned the car on and pulled in the garage.
There is where the problem began, I put the car in Park but when releasing the brake pedal it would move forward, I shifted to reverse to back it up, but the car would still move forward, I tried Neutral but still would move forward. It did not show any malfunction messages neither check engine light. I turned the engine off and while in Neutral, pushed it backwards.
I put it in Park again and the car would not start. Because it was already nigh time I decided to check it out the next day. I thought that it might be stuck in Drive and that would prevent it from starting.
I must mention that when I bought the car back in March, 2007, it had a lot of problems, The guy who sold it to me said that it would not start because of a bad fuel pump. Because of the price and good condition the vehicle appeared to be, I took the chance.
Once in my garage, with the switch in the on position I could hear the fuel pump running and the gauge showed 1/2 tank, so I decided to start with the fuel filter. While replacing the filter, I noticed that no gas came out of the tank line. I replaced the fuel filter anyways to discard it from the possibilities. It had no gas at all even when the gauge showed otherwise. After pouring 5 gallons of gas in the tank, the gauge stayed at 1/2 tank; I thought I'll verify that later.
After a couple of tries the engine fired up but with loud explosions in the engine area. After further inspection, I found a piece of metal at the front of the engine; the intake manifold was busted and had a hole in it. I ordered a used one on eBay and replaced it. By then the battery had died completely and I recharged it.
The car started ok, but showed two malfunctions: ESP and SRS. Also when driving it the car would go in limp mode and the shifter getting stuck in Park and the cruise control would not work. I did some research and found a procedure to put the transmission in learn mode using the ignition and the gas pedal. I was able to get the transmission to work normally but it would not last. I had to do that procedure over and over. I also found information saying that due to the battery dying completely, the codes had to be resettled with a STAR system.
Because I still had the issue with the fuel gauge (showed 1/2 tank even after filling it up), besides the ESP, SRS, the car going on limp mode, no cruise control, and the shifter getting stuck in Park), I took it to German Specialists shop. They replaced the shifter with a used one I bought on eBay, the steering wheel angle sensor bought at the MB dealer, and the fuel sending unit with an OEM Bosch. They also said the battery was bad and replaced it with the original MB.
$1,900.00 later I picked up the vehicle, the SRS malfunction was still there, they said that their scanner showed that the rear driver's side air bag was defective , but that the MB dealer was the only one that could take care of that. I drove the car home, noticed that the fuel gauge was at half tank, but figured this time it was what it was; cruise control and shifting problems were gone. By the time I made it home the gauge showed almost empty. I got under the car to check for leaks, there were none; inspected fuel lines and were dry, nothing in the engine compartment either.
The next day I took it back to the shop and the day after they said that somebody had replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket one and that it would not communicate with the Bosch sending unit. They would not agree with my claim that the sending unit they replaced was not the problem, that had they replaced that aftermarket pump instead of the sending unit, the problem might have been resolved. I told them I would order it and bring the car back for them to install it for $200.00. I ordered a BOSCH pump, but installed it myself, the gauge has no problems now.
As far as the SRS light, after a long troubleshooting process, I was able to get rid of it by removing and reinserting the 7.5 fuse in the engine fuse box.
The car had been running great until the present problem. This is what I have done:
I checked the 13 pin connector at the transmission; no leaks.
I checked my fuses and all of them are fine.
Tested the relays and they are good.
Checked for corroded, damaged connections and wires and they are good.
I removed the TCM from the passenger side to see if there were any ATF: there is any.
With the TCM disconnected I thought of turning on the switch for the computer to detect it was not there and after reconnecting it, and turning the switch on it would reset something.
So with the TCM disconnected and the shifter in Park, opened the switch to the on position, but decided to give it a try, and to my surprise the engine started right away. The dash message said NO MALFUNCTION, and there was no check engine light.
I left it running for awhile and then thought what would happen if I connected the TCM. I connected it and the car kept running with no warning messages or lights. I kept it running some more. Then I turned it off. Tried to start it again and would not start.
Since there are two connectors, I tried to figure out which side was causing the problem, I reconnected the right side connector (I think is for data communication).
With the shifter in Park, the car started; NO MALFUNCTION, no check engine light. Moving the shifter won't engage gears and won't show shifter position on dash.
Turned the car off, moved the shifter to R, car won't start.
Moved the shifter to P, car started.
This second time, the check engine light turned on, but NO MALFUNCTION MESSAGE on dash.
Connected Creader VIII.
P6000 Serial Communication Link (I figured because TCM is unplugged)
Also the scan showed 8 errors related to solenoids, communication, No info available.
With the engine running, connected the left connector.
With both connectors on TCM, shifter position shown on dash, NO MALFUNCTION, check engine still on.
Cleared fault memory.
Scanner shows NO DTC's.
Moved shifter to R and D, wont engage, but shifter position shows on dash.
Turned the car off.
Tried to start car again, it would not start. NO MALFUNCTION message.
Tried disconnecting the right connector, leaving the left one in place (I think is has to do with the solenoids).
The car started, and pretty much the same behavior than when I did it with the right connector in place and the left one removed.
In summing up, The car would not start if the TCM is connected. It will start if I disconnect both of them or if I leave just one of the two connected.
I am completely lost; at first I thought it could be the used shifter that had failed, then with this TCM acting weird, I am almost putting the blame on it. But I have been reading about bad solenoids, bad conductor plate, etc.
What leaves me without a clue, is that it would not show any codes or malfunctions when I get it to start and connect the TCM. It idles and revs ok, but it would not engage in gear and if the TCM is connected it would not start.
I am sorry for this long tale, but I thought that some history could help. I'd really appreciate if somebody takes the time to give me some input in the right track.
I'm also having this mysterious unable to crank issue that seems to plaque these cars.
I have a 2002 c240 that has been giving me problems for a few months (sometimes turns on right away but majority of the time you need to turn the key multiple times to get anything)
Today the car wont turn on at all. When i switch the key all the lights come on, battery is fully charged and I can hear two slight clicks after i turn the key. Is this a symptom of a bad starter or solenoid?
I was also getting major ESP and brakewear sensor problems but i believe that is separate from this issue
Please let me know before I throw this car to the junkyard
Car died while entering my parking garage. No crank.
After hooking a battery charger after about an hr......the car started no issues.
Drove the car to my mechanic and he checked the alternator and battery - no issues. He also drove it for a few days no issues.;
Took the car back after a few days and as I was driving back it died on the highway. After a few minutes it started and I returned it to him.
I had him check some key fuses and relays...all good.
Again it was there for a few days and he drove it on and off no issues. I took it back and after a few days same issues ....it had difficulty starting and then again died on the road. I started it after a few minutes and drove it to my mechanic and it died as i was entering his shop. He tried to start and again no crank and he immediately realized it was the AC Compressor.....it was getting heated or stuck........he loosen the bolt a bit on the compressor and it started right away.
AC Compressor replaced and so far no issues. This issue will cause the car to not crank sometimes if it is stuck or die on while driving as it ill get stuck and kill the engine RPM
I have a 2002 Mercedes CLK Kompressor and have the same issue, car had been starting fine and last week it suddenly wouldn’t turn over. Al dash lights work as normal, you can hear relays clicking when ignition is turned on. I have checked all fuses, all relays but they are all good. I arranged for a mechanic to come and have a look at it, asking him to plug it into a star scanner, but all he brought was a continuity tester, he spent 15mins on it and said he didn’t know what was wrong with it and left. I have had a look at my front SAM and have found that the large 40amp fuse has no power to it when ignition is on, there is power to the SAM and to all the smaller fuses in the SAM. I did have an issue previously with the SAM some time ago where I lost the indicators, but that seemed to rectify itself after some fiddling around.
I did pull the lower drivers dash down to see if there was my plugs loose and in doing that I broke one plug that goes into the ignition switch, it has green and green/white wires. As it snapped off I don’t know which one goes in what side so if someone knows where they go or has a pic of the back of their ignition switch that would be greatly appreciated if you could put it up on here. Attached are pics of the back of my ignition switch and SAM, I have circled the Fuse that has no power to it and the wire that has 12v supplying the SAM. Fuse with no power 12 v supply to SAM Where broken plug goes in ignition switch Wiring colour at rear of ignition switch
Hello everyone. I have a 2003 c240 4 Matic that has been running trouble free till today. It will not crank at all, just a single faint click under the hood. Also, it has been raining and damp lately, but here in NY, this is not uncommon. The lights do not dim when turning the key. So to be clear, no spinning of the starter motor at all. I tried in park & neutral, looked for blown fuses on three different fuse blocks, swapped the relay positions in the fuse block, and disconnected the power seats. No malfunctions being shown. I have had an automatic charger on the battery all day, and it was fully charged from the get go anyways. What do you guys think? Ignition switch, starter solenoid, something else? Oh, it had the tranny rebuilt about 5 months/3000 miles ago. Park safety switch?
I absolutely hate electrical gremlins!
I used my c240 to boost ford f150 with a dead battery with my engine running after 20 minutes with no success my car engine went off by itself and won't start after an hour got a boost from a car and it stared i drove for an hour and parked in my home in Montreal Canada temp was -15 i had another battery on my charger and the meter says 12.8 V got the same only a faint click
09-05-2015, 05:40 PM
