C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

how to remove this brake line/hose?

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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #1  
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'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
how to remove this brake line/hose?

Hi,

I need to replace the flexible brake hose/line (in the front wheel well) that connects between the caliper and the metal brake line. How do I remove that? I didn't want to try to remove the wrong way and mess up the brake system.

I am referring to the part # 170 in the attached diagram.

Your feedback is appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails how to remove this brake line/hose?-dsc01115_resized.jpg   how to remove this brake line/hose?-brake_lines.jpg  
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #2  
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From: San Antonio, TX
'11 SL550 - '08 ML350
The compressin fitting is on the hard line side. My question is, if you don't know how to remove the hose, do you understand the consequences of removing it? Do you know how to bleed the air out of the brake system? Do you know what kind of brake fluid is used to replace the fluid lost when removing the hose? All things to understand and be ready for before you turn the first wrench.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #3  
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wardsweb, thanks for your feedback. I understand the air will get in to the line once I open that and I will need to bleed the air out of the system. Have some one sit in the drivers seat, open the bleed valve, have someone push the brake pedal and and hold it there, close the valve, let the brake pedal return... repeat this process. I will buy MB brake fluid before I attempt this work. It will be more expensive than off the shelf Dot4 synthetic brake fluid, but that's ok. This way, I don't have to worry about mixing the fluid in the brake system and the new fluid.

As you can see in the picture I 've attached above, the rubber hose seems to be deteriorating. I want to replace the hose before the brakes go kaput :-)

Thanks again.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #4  
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I am familiar with 'compression fittings'. If you look at the picture, compression fitting is not readily visible and also not so apparent in the EPC either. Hence, my question. Thanks.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #5  
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From: San Antonio, TX
'11 SL550 - '08 ML350
Originally Posted by pcy
wardsweb, thanks for your feedback. I understand the air will get in to the line once I open that and I will need to bleed the air out of the system. Have some one sit in the drivers seat, open the bleed valve, have someone push the brake pedal and and hold it there, close the valve, let the brake pedal return... repeat this process. I will buy MB brake fluid before I attempt this work. It will be more expensive than off the shelf Dot4 synthetic brake fluid, but that's ok. This way, I don't have to worry about mixing the fluid in the brake system and the new fluid.

As you can see in the picture I 've attached above, the rubber hose seems to be deteriorating. I want to replace the hose before the brakes go kaput :-)

Thanks again.
I believe you will find that is a rubber sleeve on the press fitting. If your hosed ever cracked you would not have brakes. Just wanted to make sure you knew what you were getting into before you found yourself in the middle of your project and needed something. Especially true if it is your only transportation.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #6  
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look at the metal fitting on the outside of the metal bracket , it is not perfectly round it has 2 flat surface on theere for you to be able to grab it with a spanner of appropriate size, then hold the bolt on the inner side of the braket and then loosen it up. But be sure that you know what you are getting into as wardsweb said...........bleeding brake fluid system requires some level of skill and experience. Like if you will unhook that cable just by bleeding that side will not work I have heard/read that you have to bleed the entire system starting from the right rear passenger side, then left rear driver side, then front driver side and lastly the front passenger side...........please do extensive research before attempting this..........

goodluck...

javvy
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Wardsweb
I believe you will find that is a rubber sleeve on the press fitting...
You are absolutely right. The rubber sleeve is what's deteriorating.
Thanks for your suggestions. I will make sure I am prepared with all necessary parts before I attempt this repair.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Javvy
look at the metal fitting on the outside of the metal bracket , it is not perfectly round it has 2 flat surface on theere for you to be able to grab it with a spanner of appropriate size, then hold the bolt on the inner side of the braket and then loosen it up. But be sure that you know what you are getting into as wardsweb said...........bleeding brake fluid system requires some level of skill and experience. Like if you will unhook that cable just by bleeding that side will not work I have heard/read that you have to bleed the entire system starting from the right rear passenger side, then left rear driver side, then front driver side and lastly the front passenger ...
javvy
Javvy, I will do dry run of the project with all parts in hand and ample time available for bleeding the entire system. Since I will be opening the brake system, I might as well replace the brake fluid.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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You bleed starting furthest to closest to the master cylinder, so RR LR RF LF.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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Would appreciate if you post pics and commentary after you replace the hose.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by wsw
Would appreciate if you post pics and commentary after you replace the hose.
will do.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 11:38 AM
  #12  
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I just replaced the front pads/rotors, and noticed the brake hoses don't look great. Not leaking as far as I can tell, but the outside is cracked where it passes through the grommet. The replacement procedure looks pretty straightforward, but I am concerned about the amount of fluid leaking once I take the old hose off. The WIS states "seal off the line connections immediately with plugs. The expansion reservoir for brake fluid must not run completely empty." In most of the videos I have seen so far, they just leave it dribbling while swapping the hoses. Has anyone used plugs on these lines, since a hose clamp obviously won't work here?
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 02:28 PM
  #13  
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Here's a little tip to people who open a joint in the brake pipe line. Open the reservoir cap and stretch some polythene bag over the top replace the lid. This will help loosing to much fluid when you open the pipework.
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Old Dec 27, 2020 | 08:01 PM
  #14  
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Or even easier, just remove and use the cap over the bleed valve. It will fit the brake line upstream the hose perfectly. Otherwise you only have about 10 minutes before the reservoir reaches the min mark. The solution was in front of me the whole time!
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 03:37 AM
  #15  
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One tip i seen on youtube/used myself when replacing rear brake lines, is to open the bleed screw, then press the brake pedal to the floor and hold it in place with e.g. a piece of wood wedged against the seat. The brake being always on seems to keep the fluid in place (after the initial fluid comes out from pressing the pedal)
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