2004 C240 4-Matic
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Just realized I've been using the wrong thread this entire time. From now on all my questions/pictures/etc will be posted in this thread and this thread only. After searching around it is evident that the most efficient thing to do on the forums is to keep one single thread for your car and log anything you will/have done to it.
So two simple (apparently not for me) subjects that I was hoping someone could help me with...
1.) I just ran the Climatronic diagnostic test (as per this link, https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...imatronic.html). The the two lights started flashing back and forth between each other while the fans started blowing from all sorts of directions, it sounded like a whirwind in there. Well I let it run 20 minutes before I decided to shut it off. Did I do something wrong or does my Climatronic need repair? P.S. I ran the diagnostic test without the engine on, just key turned all the way to the right.
2.) What kind of foglights bulbs would you guys recommend to get to match my bi-xenons with AZN Optics city-lights (5000k)? Do I need to replace the entire foglight unit or can I just replace the bulb when it comes to this? I also need to figure out how to replace the bulbs in the side-markers then eventually will do the license plate as well.
Thanks to anyone who can chime in on this.
So two simple (apparently not for me) subjects that I was hoping someone could help me with...
1.) I just ran the Climatronic diagnostic test (as per this link, https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...imatronic.html). The the two lights started flashing back and forth between each other while the fans started blowing from all sorts of directions, it sounded like a whirwind in there. Well I let it run 20 minutes before I decided to shut it off. Did I do something wrong or does my Climatronic need repair? P.S. I ran the diagnostic test without the engine on, just key turned all the way to the right.
2.) What kind of foglights bulbs would you guys recommend to get to match my bi-xenons with AZN Optics city-lights (5000k)? Do I need to replace the entire foglight unit or can I just replace the bulb when it comes to this? I also need to figure out how to replace the bulbs in the side-markers then eventually will do the license plate as well.
Thanks to anyone who can chime in on this.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 4, 2010 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Grammar errors.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Question 1 was answered in another thread that I'm trying to let sink to the bottom as I would like to use this one for any mods/history of the car, etc.
So I'm still trying to find out what I can do with my stock foglights to match them up with my bi-xenon and white 5000k city lights from AZN Optics.
Also as mentioned in the other thread, some chick rear ended me yesterday (never thought I'd be happy about that) so I'll be getting a new paint job on that back bumper real soon, as well as finally getting that tow cap cover fixed
Just ordered a new air filter (MANN) as well after finding out the one in there is old as dirt and plain filthy.
Still waiting to install the new fuel filter, flat emblem, and waiting for the city lights, and of course the new air filter.
Man, this is gonna take a while...
So I'm still trying to find out what I can do with my stock foglights to match them up with my bi-xenon and white 5000k city lights from AZN Optics.
Also as mentioned in the other thread, some chick rear ended me yesterday (never thought I'd be happy about that) so I'll be getting a new paint job on that back bumper real soon, as well as finally getting that tow cap cover fixed
Just ordered a new air filter (MANN) as well after finding out the one in there is old as dirt and plain filthy.
Still waiting to install the new fuel filter, flat emblem, and waiting for the city lights, and of course the new air filter.
Man, this is gonna take a while...
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
So I got the stuff exchanged (and got about 75% of the price discounted back to my card) - guess it worked out in the end.
I asked one of the service guys about the transmission and no doubt, the tranny oil and filter DOES have to be changed every 40k miles!
So I'm on the hunt for the proper fluid and filter as we speak.
This OEM Genuine Mercedes Benz fluid looks like the stuff, but how many bottles do I need?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ission%20Fluid
I also need to change my front *brake pads, not rotors* as they (last night) crapped the bed suddenly after we had a lot of rain the past 2 days. Everytime I hit the brakes it sounds like they are scraping against the rotors.
The strange thing is, the car never said I had brake pad wear - I thought it had a sensor for that?
Anyway, what do you think about the following brake pad sets:
1.) http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ke%20Pad%20Set
2.) http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND%28wpn_tl_name:Brakes\%2C+Suspension+%2 6+Steering,wpn_cat_name:Brake+Discs\%2C+Pads+%26+C alipers,wpn_scat_name:Brake+Pads+%26+Components,pa rt:Brake+Pad+Set%29
Are any of them good for my MB? Or do I need to get em straight from the dealer
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 6, 2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
About the Trans fluid - if you are dropping the pan only, then expect to drain about 4 quarts (around 3.75 qts). Buy the 'trans filter kit' from Autohaus. They usually have it for around $15. That kit comes with the trans filter and a new pan gasket. Get a seal for the drain plug. Get 4 qts of new (MB) trans fluid. That's around $15 per qt at RMeuropean.
About the brake noise, before ordering a new set of brake pads, jack up the front wheel(s), remove the front wheel(s) and visually check the condition of the pads.
About the brake noise, before ordering a new set of brake pads, jack up the front wheel(s), remove the front wheel(s) and visually check the condition of the pads.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
About the Trans fluid - if you are dropping the pan only, then expect to drain about 4 quarts (around 3.75 qts). Buy the 'trans filter kit' from Autohaus. They usually have it for around $15. That kit comes with the trans filter and a new pan gasket. Get a seal for the drain plug. Get 4 qts of new (MB) trans fluid. That's around $15 per qt at RMeuropean.
About the brake noise, before ordering a new set of brake pads, jack up the front wheel(s), remove the front wheel(s) and visually check the condition of the pads.
About the brake noise, before ordering a new set of brake pads, jack up the front wheel(s), remove the front wheel(s) and visually check the condition of the pads.
I will be removing the wheels later as well to see where the situation with the brakes stand.
For now, I decided to take a pic of the top part of the left rotor. From the looks of it, I think I will need rotors, not pads. The pads (from what I could tell) still have about 1-2cm of pad on them.
Let me know what you think about the rotors, here is the pic. Looks like the pads have been scraping the rotors with freakin nail..
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 6, 2010 at 10:04 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
If you are going to go thru the process of removing the caliper, and replace the rotors, I suggest you to go ahead and replace the pads as well (eventhough 1-2cm of brake pad material is still left). This way, you won't have to worry about brakes for a while.
When you put in new set of rotors and pads, go thru the 'bedding in' process.
When you put in new set of rotors and pads, go thru the 'bedding in' process.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
If you are going to go thru the process of removing the caliper, and replace the rotors, I suggest you to go ahead and replace the pads as well (eventhough 1-2cm of brake pad material is still left). This way, you won't have to worry about brakes for a while.
When you put in new set of rotors and pads, go thru the 'bedding in' process.
When you put in new set of rotors and pads, go thru the 'bedding in' process.
By the look of the rotor pictured in the photo above - can you tell it (both left and right rotors of course) need to be replaced?
And I'm assuming the best thing for me to do is go with OEM rotors/pads since the ones in the back are also OEM and were replaced recently.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 6, 2010 at 10:58 AM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
For transmission use Genuine Benz fluid or Fuchs Titan 4134 - It's approved.
Your rotors do not look badly worn but show some very peculiar pickup of some sort. I would toss them. A new OEM set is a better option than having them machined.
Genuine pads work really well if you can stand the dust. Otherwise fit Akebono's
Your rotors do not look badly worn but show some very peculiar pickup of some sort. I would toss them. A new OEM set is a better option than having them machined.
Genuine pads work really well if you can stand the dust. Otherwise fit Akebono's
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
For transmission use Genuine Benz fluid or Fuchs Titan 4134 - It's approved.
Your rotors do not look badly worn but show some very peculiar pickup of some sort. I would toss them. A new OEM set is a better option than having them machined.
Genuine pads work really well if you can stand the dust. Otherwise fit Akebono's
Your rotors do not look badly worn but show some very peculiar pickup of some sort. I would toss them. A new OEM set is a better option than having them machined.
Genuine pads work really well if you can stand the dust. Otherwise fit Akebono's
I'm trying to take a look at the pads in the rear and am having trouble removing the caliper. The two screws in the back take a 16mm but the only ones I have in my set that are close are 15mm and 17mm - can you believe it?
The one nut I need is the only one missing from the set...
And I can't access the pads unless I remove the caliper...or am I wrong about this? Sorry for the newbness, feel free to flame.
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
For the rear pads you dont need to remove the caliper. I believe its just a metal pin that holds in a metal tab that holds the pads in place. Once those are removed the pads can slide out.
edit: yours is 4matic so maybe im wrong, it could be different
edit: yours is 4matic so maybe im wrong, it could be different
Last edited by fookoo303; Nov 6, 2010 at 03:56 PM.
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Rear pads still have plenty of pad material on them, so those are fine.
Now the whole reason behind me checking the pads is because I was hearing/feeling something very abnormal from the FRONT brakes after a 2-day rain shower here. Sounded like they were scraping against the rotor and could barely make contact with it every time I hit the brakes.
This problem went away after about a 2-3 minute drive and me playing with the brakes. I guess they were just wet and needed to dry, phew.
Anyway I'm still taking her to Meineke first thing tomorrow to get a brake inspection. Gotta be sure.
Glyn: Thank you for posting the diagram!
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
So who is familiar with that low-volume rumble/vibration when driving between 50mph and 70mph?
I pray to everything holy that I'm not having the same problem as this guy: (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-50-70mph.html).
I must say, I am having very similar symptoms, but ONLY when driving between 50mph-70mph. Lol. Looks like I'm shat out of luck.
Anyone who can confirm this please do, as I do not feel like wasting any more money on this thing.
Thanks in advance.
I pray to everything holy that I'm not having the same problem as this guy: (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-50-70mph.html).
I must say, I am having very similar symptoms, but ONLY when driving between 50mph-70mph. Lol. Looks like I'm shat out of luck.
Anyone who can confirm this please do, as I do not feel like wasting any more money on this thing.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 7, 2010 at 08:57 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Oh, I ran the Climatronic diagnostic test with the engine on and same thing happened, the fans just kept blowing and blowing...for about 10 minutes, until I decided to shut the engine off. So that means one or more of my stepper motors is gone and need replacing?
There goes another couple hundred dollars.
I'm starting to debate whether this car is really worth all the extra costs for repairs. I say nay.
There goes another couple hundred dollars.
I'm starting to debate whether this car is really worth all the extra costs for repairs. I say nay.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 7, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
Likes: 6
From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
So who is familiar with that low-volume rumble/vibration when driving between 50mph and 70mph?
I pray to everything holy that I'm not having the same problem as this guy: (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-50-70mph.html).
I must say, I am having very similar symptoms, but ONLY when driving between 50mph-70mph. Lol. Looks like I'm shat out of luck.
Anyone who can confirm this please do, as I do not feel like wasting any more money on this thing.
Thanks in advance.
I pray to everything holy that I'm not having the same problem as this guy: (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-50-70mph.html).
I must say, I am having very similar symptoms, but ONLY when driving between 50mph-70mph. Lol. Looks like I'm shat out of luck.
Anyone who can confirm this please do, as I do not feel like wasting any more money on this thing.
Thanks in advance.
See this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...on-60-mph.html
And I want to just highlight two posts made by members thaiq, and Skylaw (hope they don't mind me quoting them, TIA fellas).
The problem is the "harmonic balancer" or the "belt tensioner" or it could be both. Both of these are part of the belt assembly in front of the engine. The harmonic balancer is like a belt but with two metal parts sandwich a middle rubber part and the belt tensioner could be loose (actually it was a faulty part originally and needs to be replaced). Unfortunately, MB does not cover them after the warranty period. It cost me $600 for the harmonic balancer and $450 for the belt tensioner. Hope this help.
Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated gentlemen.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 7, 2010 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Added information
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,295
Likes: 22
From: VA
THE C350
Oh, I ran the Climatronic diagnostic test with the engine on and same thing happened, the fans just kept blowing and blowing...for about 10 minutes, until I decided to shut the engine off. So that means one or more of my stepper motors is gone and need replacing?
There goes another couple hundred dollars.
I'm starting to debate whether this car is really worth all the extra costs for repairs. I say nay.
There goes another couple hundred dollars.
I'm starting to debate whether this car is really worth all the extra costs for repairs. I say nay.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Orlando, FL
C240
The pulsing/ticking/etc is most likely a noisy purge valve. Common, not something to worry about.
Squeaking is most likely bushings. It's outside of your car and you can't hear it well if you stand outside, but inside, it's not easy to miss when going over bumps. It's also a common part to go.
Squeaking is most likely bushings. It's outside of your car and you can't hear it well if you stand outside, but inside, it's not easy to miss when going over bumps. It's also a common part to go.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
All the fans definitely did blow and I didn't hear anything that sounded 'off' - once in a while there was a tick and/or quick squeeling sound but nothing major. I also noticed that when I turn the climate on that my engine begins to have a pulse where it revs itself a little bit every 3-5 seconds or so.
I assume this is normal..
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 7, 2010 at 12:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
The pulsing/ticking/etc is most likely a noisy purge valve. Common, not something to worry about.
Squeaking is most likely bushings. It's outside of your car and you can't hear it well if you stand outside, but inside, it's not easy to miss when going over bumps. It's also a common part to go.
Squeaking is most likely bushings. It's outside of your car and you can't hear it well if you stand outside, but inside, it's not easy to miss when going over bumps. It's also a common part to go.
About the bushings, how hard would those be to replace? Would I need to get the car on a lift or could a couple of jackstands with blocks do?
I'm assuming this is the part I'm looking for:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...0Arm%20Bushing
And should I replace the Tie Rod Ends as well? Someone had mentioned that those can begin to squeak over time.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ie%20Rod%20End
I would prefer to just spray them down with some WD40 - always does the job! (Kidding)
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 7, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
the front bushings are the ones that usually go bad. i just recently replaced mine and the drive is so much smoother. If your pretty handy you can pull the control arms out yourself with the right tools, and bring it to carquest and have them press the new ones in for you. They did all 4 front control arm bushings for me for 25 bucks.
