Crna Mechka

That was very helpful, thanks.

Anyway, I gotta remind myself to STFF before stating these questions. It does help to have a direct opinion though.

So that squeaking/creaking noise started up again, all this after I took the car to a local indy shop and had the suspension components greased and re-tightened. Now the noise is even louder than before...ugh.

Called up the shop, guy wants me to drop the car off so he can pinpoint the squeaks with his stethoscope. I'm sure I'll end up with a $250 bill for just having him pinpoint the problem, then he'll probably tell me that I need to order some parts and pay him again for labor to install the parts.

My questions is, is it worth it? Or should I just order a new *set* of arms with bushings pre-installed and get someone to put em in for me?

This is the last and final thing I need to get repaired to be 100%.

pcy

Zerex G-05 or MB coolant should be used.
Buy 1 gallon of coolant concentrate and buy 1 gallon of distilled water (available Walgreens, CVS, etc.) and mix those 2 gallons. That should be enough.

I bought 1 gallon of MB coolant for $19 couple of months ago.

pcy

There is no easy answer to your question. Just replacing the control arms may not solve the issue IF THE CONTROL ARMS AREN'T CAUSING THE NOISE. There are several components that contribute to the noise... shock absorbers, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, control arms, few other arms (thrust arm, trailing arm, etc). What I am saying is that just replacing parts without knowing the root cause may not be prudent in this case.

What you or your mechanis will need to do is spray the lubricant on each of the above mentioned components ONE AT A TIME and drive the car to see if that noise subsides. If the noise continues, move on to lubricating the next component. This can take some time before finding the root cause of the noise.

Crna Mechka

Thank you very much for your detailed response, pcy. I did call the local stealership and they quoted me $20 for a gallon of anti-freeze fluid, so I'm gonna go grab that along with a gallon of distilled water and do the job.

As for the squeaking/creaking noises...you're absolutely right, there is no way to know what component is causing the noise until they are all tested one by one. I'm just wondering how much such a job would run me? I mean it can't take more than 1-2 hours, right?

I'm ust trying to not over-spend, as is the typical case when an MB is taken to a garage for work.

tommy

It'll take as long as it takes to identify the squeak(s). I don't think that anyone can really give you an estimate. My advice - take it to a shop you trust, and pay whatever you have to. I don't know what else you really can do, except ignore the squeaks and wait for a visible sign that a bushing burst.

Crna Mechka

You're absolutely right Tommy. I'm just going to have to deal with it, the labor, the cost, etc. - in due time.

On another note, I got me some MB anti-freeze fluid from the stealership, almost unreal that it costs less there than it does at these online shops ($18 as compared to $25) - so golf clap for the stealership on that one.

Now since I'm kinda scared of the infamous 'anti-freeze leaking into transmission' problem - she's staying put in the garage until the antifreeze fluid is replaced tomorrow. No ifs ands or buts about it. I also gotta remember to check the manufacturer of my radiator.

One last question for you fellas...do any of you experience a funky smell in the first 5 minutes of turning on the heat? Mine smells really strong at first but fades away after a while (or my nose just gets used to it) - any ideas? I probably need a new cabin air filter.

And a personal note, next items to purchase: Right Interior Door Handle, Euro Impact Strips, LED License Plate Lights...

pcy

Mildew may have formed in the cabin air filter/air ducts/heater core. First, check the condition of the cabin air filter. If it needs replacement, replace.

There are sprays available to clean the mildew in the air ducts.

Crna Mechka

Ahh, gotcha.

Any idea where I can pick up a bottle of this mildew spray? And how does it work, you just spray it in the ducts and turn the heat on?

Cabin filter was covered in dust and other various crap so I used a vacuum and high-pressure air to clean it up, but the smell still remains.

Gonna do some searching on this topic as well while I wait for your response.

ontmiss

Lysol spray works good enough and yes, you just spray it in the ducts and turn the heat on.

Crna Mechka

I'm gonna wait till I get this first, A 203 830 09 18 - Carbon Impregnated Cabin Filter Replacement Element.

Or should I do the Lysol trick now with the old cabin air filter in place? Not sure what is the most ideal thing to do.

Glad I saved this diagram from earlier searches...I'm assuming that I should spray the Lysol into each and every vent?

It just doesn't make sense to me to spray into the ducts from inside the car, I would have to remove all the plastic pieces to be able to really access the vents.

Or are you saying to spray into the ducts from the outside of the car (under the hood)? I'm such a newb.

Crna Mechka

Oh, looks like I got more 'good' news, ugh. The bulb circled in the following picture is not working, but only on the right taillight (this is the bulb that goes on when you put your fogs on).

I switched the bulbs out from left to right side and right to left, both bulbs work, but that part of the right taillight just won't light up.

So I know its not the bulbs cause I just tested them, what else could it be? Blown fuse maybe?

pcy

When you turn the rear fog lights, only the left fog light should lightup. That's the way it was designed. If both lights light up, then folks driving behind will think your brake lights are stuck or you are riding on the brakes.

tommy

RTFM comes to mind.

As far as the cabin filter is concerned, do you have any idea when it was last changed? If you don't, what I would do is take out the old, spray lysol in towards the cabin, put in a new air filter, and hope for the best. It should at least reduce the smell, if not completely remove it.

Crna Mechka

Well that explains that - thanks pcy.

It's news to me and a bit strange that only one side lights up.

What's the point of it then, I mean does it serve any purpose at all just being lit up on the left side. I dunno

While we're on the subject - are there any sort of 'frosted' or 'white' replacement bulbs that can be used for the Reverse or other bulbs?

And I'm still not sure where to spray the Lysol and/or Mildew spray so would appreciate any sort of feedback on that fellas. Thanks!

Crna Mechka

Hey there Tommy, just saw your reply. That sounds like a decent plan. Current cabin air filter is pretty old from what I noticed when I cleaned it a couple of days ago. Gonna go pick up a new filter, take out old, spray the Lysol as you suggested into the cabin air vent, and put new filter in.

Hopefully it does the trick.

tommy

It's brighter than the brake lights, and can be seen better. If it lit up on both sides, then as pcy said, people might mistake it for brake lights, and when people see other peoples' brake lights on, the tendency is to ride the brakes, so I do think it's a good idea to have some separation between the brake lights and rear fog (to me, same goes for red rear turn signals, I find that a very idiotic thing to do, and am not happy that the European manufacturers are picking up on the lazy practice).

There are all kinds of bulbs you can get, so go crazy. For example, I've got the silver-coated bulbs for my front turn signals; looks better than seeing orange in your headlights when they're not lit.

Crna Mechka

I'm gonna have to come back to this and ask you where to purchase the bulbs, like any auto parts store?

*EDIT* Fan not spinning/heat not working after anti-freeze flush problem solved. Apparently the car has to be driven after this procedure to get the coolant moving, then everything works again.

Phew...next time I'll think twice before jumping to conclusions.

Crna Mechka

Car is beginning to sound like a squeaky toy more and more every day.

If I drive on smooth pavement with minimal bumps its fine...no noise, just a bit of a bumpy ride.

But as soon as a I hit a couple of bumps/potholes in a row...oh my freakin lord...it NEVER stops!

Its starting to drive me crazy man...at least before I took it to that indy shop I could only hear the noises inside the car.

Ever since they touched it, you can hear it freakin everywhere, inside, outside, in outer space...****ing *******s.

There's also a creaking noise when taking off from a dead stop now...as well as some kind of creak/grind in the back from dead stop.

Honestly if I didn't know any better I would think the car was falling apart.

Looks like all the mods will have to wait...I'm probably gonna have to drop like $500+ just to get these noises resolved.

Big congrats to the guy who sold me this car...you played it off real well dude, thumbs up!

Let me just add that this is probably the biggest problem I've had with the car so far...so I guess its not that bad?

cpbeasley

How much did you buy the car for and when?
If you bought low, then I guess you're not losing much.

Crna Mechka

$10k including tax and registration. Bought it about 3 months ago. Already put at least $1-2k into it (essentials, service B, tranny/transfer case oil, fuel filter, air filter, etc).

cpbeasley

well you didnt pay too much at least.

once finished with the maintainence phase, you're driving what could be one of the more reliable w203s produced.

Crna Mechka

Yeah, at least the guy was nice enough to drop his 'final price' of $10k to $9k due to me being a student and paying out of my pocket (or he just wanted to get rid of the damn car, doens't matter though).

You think I made of well? All she needs is new parts for the suspension I'm guessing, the creaking from a dead stop must be something loose.

In total I think I will pay $13k for her to be at 100% health.

I wonder how much I'd be able to sell her for after everything is 100%.

tommy

Drop it with a new suspension. Car is better than stock. If noises persist (decent chance that will fix some or all of the noises), pay a professional to clean up what still needs to be fixed (end links, bushings, etc.).

I know it's annoying, but big picture-wise, I think you're doing fine.

tommy

About what you bought it for. You can't really do a flip on a modern car and make money at it. Once it's all done, I'd be surprised if you want to get rid of it.

Crna Mechka

Tommy, thanks for chiming in. You're probably right, after all is done and set, I will most likely want to just keep her (and get her some new shoes!)

These are the words I was looking for:

Thank you for that.

I was thinking about getting a new dropped suspension/shocks but closer to spring/summer. Guess I will just have to deal with the noises for now.