Crna Mechka

Sup fellas, hope everyone had a good Christmas!

I have a quick two question for you guys.

1.) I noticed something a bit strange when I turn the car on for the first time in the morning (after letting it warm up so RPM's drop below 1k). Right after I put the car in gear (D or R) it stutters/shutters (is that the word?) for about 1-1.5 seconds as if it is going to die on me? Then it just takes off like normal...really weird.

2.) Another thing I noticed this morning (haven't turned the car on in bout 3 days, but this pretty much ALWAYS happens) - soon as I put the car in gear and let off the brake pedal, I hear the LOUDEST grinding noise in the back of the car for about a second, it's like the brake pads are stuck to the rotors and took longer than usual to let go?

Hilfe, bitte! (a lil Deutsch for you guys)

Glyn M Ruck

You need to check plugs, coils, wires etc. Engine stumble can be a sign of O2 sensors starting to cycle too slowly & fail. I presume your MAF is clean.

Do you use the Parking brake??

Crna Mechka

Hey Glyn,

I don't use the parking brake much, if ever. The MAF should be clean, I've only had it revealed once when I changed the air filter. I don't think anything fell in there in the short amount of time I had it revealed (about 10 minutes) but then again you never know.

How would I check if the MAF is clean or not?

About the plugs, coils, and wires - sounds like something I would need to take it to a shop for as I am not too familiar with these things. I'm not even sure how to distinguish between faulty or good unless there is visible damage.

It could be the spark plugs cause I have no idea when and IF they were ever replaced. How often do they have to be replaced anyway?

And as always, thank you for chiming in, I really appreciate it.

laneshift

MAF will get dirty as time goes on from the air that is taken in. Filters don't do a 100% job, but real close. The small amount of dust gets past over time.

You can clean it with a can of MAF Sensor Cleaner from an auto parts store, branded by CRC. Around 7 dollars a can. Put it on a paper towel and hit it from different angles. You'd be surprised the difference it can make if the sensor is dirty. Take it out first before cleaning.

Spark plugs, iirc, should be replaced around 100k. Correct me if I'm wrong, for I don't have this car anymore. Coil packs usually have no visible damage. You swap them from one position to another to detect if one is causing misfires, but I don't know if that technique may apply for your situation if it doesn't throw codes.

Glyn M Ruck

OK so parking brake is not making a noise. You will have to check the discs/calipers.

Plugs might go 100K in perfect open road conditions but if the vehicle is used for short trips & they operate outside the self cleaning range too often they will do nothing like that. My car is a town car & needed a plug change at 45,000 Km due to spluttery starts.

I would change plugs & clean the MAF first. Part of MAF fouling is also intake system oil vapour mess. If you ever lift the inlet manifold on a V6 you will see what I mean. They get messy in there.

Crna Mechka

Thanks for the replies fellas!

Looks like I'll be making a visit to the local auto parts store to purchase MAF cleaner as suggested by laneshift. But first I gotta search around and figure out how to remove the MAF without damaging anything.

As for the grinding noise, I am almost 100% certain its coming from the rear brakes, but they are in good shape AFAIK so maybe I'm wrong. Anyway I gotta go at this one step at a time or I'm going to screw something up. First MAF, then spark plugs, then noises.

The only problem when it comes to the spark plugs is I don't have that wrench.

EDIT: Just what I was looking for: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-cleaning.html

Crna Mechka

So I think this is what I'm looking for when it comes to spark plugs: http://www.rmeuropean.com/part-numbe..._94e6b777.aspx

Would anyone suggest paying the extra $2 per spark plug to get the Iridium or is it not worth it?

Also...does anyone know if RMEuropean carries that special MB Spark Plug Wrench? I can't seem to find it on their website.

pcy

For spark plugs, I would stick to OEM. No Iridium, no quad/dual tips, etc.
There is really no reason to think of alternatives to the OEM. In my opinion, it's not worth paying extra and then take a chance whether they work properly or not...

Crna Mechka

I hear you there, and after searching up a bit more on it I'm decided on getting the OEM Bosch plugs.

I'm just a little confused here, on this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-plug-r-r.html (credit to Splinter for creating this) it says the part # for C240 plugs is 004 159 94 03.

But when I select "OEM Bosch Spark Plugs for 2004 C240 4-Matic" at RMEuropean, the part # reads 004 159 19 03 26 - any idea why?

Crna Mechka

Did I make a stupid question? Are these plugs the same?

This thread DIY: M112 Spark Plug R&R says its part# 004 159 94 03.

RMEuropean says OEM Bosch plugs are part# 004 159 19 03 26.

pcy

For M112, the following are the spark plug part numbers -
A 004 159 19 03
A 003 159 94 03
A 004 159 50 03

Note says "A004 159 19 03 26 is the latest spark plug part number stocked."

Crna Mechka

Thank you pcy!

Crna Mechka

Checkin in for an update...

So I came across a decent Indy dealer with specializing in MB who agreed to replace the spark plugs for a decent price, he suggested I change out the wires while I'm at it and since I don't think neither item has ever been replaced I decided to go for it.

He also scanned for codes for and (phew!) got nothin on the computer so that's pretty kick-***.

Lastly, I never knew how much 4matic counts in snowy conditions until just the other day. Still rockin summer tires and all. Felt like I was driving an SUV. Meanwhile my buddys C240 non-4matic can't even make it outta the driveway.

Crna Mechka

Mods and upgrades are approaching...just a couple more months till Spring!

Crna Mechka

Well, even after all 12 spark plugs and wires were replaced - the dreadful engine sputter when shifting into gear after the first (cold start) of the day is still happening.

The indy told me to clean the MAF would be a bad idea unless it is actually causing a problem that he or I know of. I'm thinking it should probably be cleaned now.

Any ideas, fellas?

Crna Mechka

Hey guys...any ideas on the sputtering upon initial cold startup?

Is it a dirty MAF? I really don't wanna touch it unless it's really necessary.

Who knows maybe it's just a cold temp issue (it's been extremely cold in NE this winter).

Glyn M Ruck

The C240 engine should fire up at the flick of a switch & run in stable fashion. If the temp sensor is OK and you are getting adequate mixture enrichment then clean the MAF.

Crna Mechka

Thanks for your reply Glyn. I'm gonna plan to clean the MAF as the next step - I'll post back with results.

Crna Mechka

Don't mind me, just making a check-list so I don't forget something when Spring arrives...

• Get DDM Fogs
• Get Eurostrips
• Get AMBER city lights
• Get CLEAR/WHITE turn signal lights/license plate lights/interior lights
• Get 8" JL sub w/ monoblock amp
• Get tints all around
• DO NOT paint chrome grill black, instead just make that **** as shiny as possible
• Clean the headlight housing/plastic 'till it's completely see-thru
• Get some new damn shoes
• Get new lowering springs
• Get new exhaust

If anyone else wants to chime in feel free, I'm always open to advice/opinions.