Phister's car thread
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Orlando
06 w203 Blk/Blk - 06 w251 slv/blk
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Joined: Apr 2011
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04' C230K
OMG... ); I'm so screwed. My friend and I installed them with the OEM end links but we were wondering why it didn't come with replacements... I haven't driven the car since install since there is something grinding against my front right brake caliper and when I turn I hear clicking noises which, since its been confirmed, my ends links are not the correct ones. I bought these from circuitmotorsports and when I tracked shipping it said they were being shipped from Taiwan? Give it to me straight, how my did they screw me?
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
all BC co are made per order and their main warehouse is in taiwan so the tracking is correct. now when you do rebuilds it goes to their US location.
your car is probably making those noises because the sway bar is in the incorrect position do to the long end links mounting the sway bar lower than what it should be.
contact bc usa and tell them your situation. you have a one year warranty on the product.
your car is probably making those noises because the sway bar is in the incorrect position do to the long end links mounting the sway bar lower than what it should be.
contact bc usa and tell them your situation. you have a one year warranty on the product.
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04' C230K
Talked to Cody at BC Racing NA and said that they will have their overseas factory ship me the end links. Do you think that'll also fix the problem i have of my upper strut mount in the engine bay being too high for me to bolt down all the way? Btw, thanks for all your help Phi!! Also, How did you get your ride so low? You mentioned that suspension is supposed to stay slanted forward but from your sig pic it looks even.
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
the end links is going to fix the sway issue being wrong. as most members know here, that after you lower your car, the mounting bracket on the top part of the strut is going to have a gap and looks like it needs to be lowered more, but thats not the case. its going to have the gap because since the car sits lower, the strut piston is pushed up higher so the mounting point of the bracket is also pushed to making it have a gap. just make sure you have the top hat ring tightened all the way down and bracket is tightened down as far as you can. to make sure its properly installed you can push down on the front end and see if the bracket moves statically with the car and its not just staying there. if its not moving with the car then you need to tighten down the top hat mounting ring more.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
ok finished another little project i wanted to do. wanted to install a new shift knob and know its hard getting one for our car since we have a slip on knob and there arent many out there. I decided to buy the Buddy Club delrin shift knob with the M10x1.5 (honda fitment) knob. I like t because its white and smaller than the oem knob. feels great when shifting. I also when with the 1.5 thread pitch because mercedes uses 1.5 thread pitch on all their bolts and nuts.
So to do this I had to bust out some old equipment I havent used in awhile.
First started off with my dremel and stone grinder bit and grinded the shifter shaft down to fit the M10x1.5 threader bit. It takes awhile but finally got it down to where the threader fit. then threaded the flat part of the shaft, it'll only thread the front and back of of the shaft since its a flat instead of round but it'll give it enough thread to get the knob to fit.
to get the shift boot to look OEM, what I did was take apart the shift knob and cut the middle shaft of the knob that slips of the shift shaft. this allowed me to use the locking mechanism on the inside boot to hold the boot to the knob. I used the lower shift knob ring and flipped it upside down to match it to the boot and locked it on the inside with the lock ring. It looks pretty OEM. I might find a different ring and switch the boot from leather to suede. heres a pic of how it came out.
forgot to clean my console after the grinding so it looks dirty. cf wrapped my console because I modified the center to put my amp remote. you can kinda see it in this pic.
So to do this I had to bust out some old equipment I havent used in awhile.
First started off with my dremel and stone grinder bit and grinded the shifter shaft down to fit the M10x1.5 threader bit. It takes awhile but finally got it down to where the threader fit. then threaded the flat part of the shaft, it'll only thread the front and back of of the shaft since its a flat instead of round but it'll give it enough thread to get the knob to fit.
to get the shift boot to look OEM, what I did was take apart the shift knob and cut the middle shaft of the knob that slips of the shift shaft. this allowed me to use the locking mechanism on the inside boot to hold the boot to the knob. I used the lower shift knob ring and flipped it upside down to match it to the boot and locked it on the inside with the lock ring. It looks pretty OEM. I might find a different ring and switch the boot from leather to suede. heres a pic of how it came out.
forgot to clean my console after the grinding so it looks dirty. cf wrapped my console because I modified the center to put my amp remote. you can kinda see it in this pic.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Orlando
06 w203 Blk/Blk - 06 w251 slv/blk
Yo I got a question... I put on the front coilovers evrything working fine and great.... But I notice there is a gap in the black upper brace thats under the hood... that goes right before the bolt is that suppose to be like that?
Last edited by Jay_Soprano; Oct 14, 2012 at 11:35 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
yes... i answered that question a few post ago lol... its because since the car is lowered the strut is pushing the piston and mounting point higher causing a gap on the bracket. its a normal thing when lowering the car. to make sure its fully bolted down push on the front end to see if the bracket moves with the car and is not static. if its static and hits on the frame when the car rebounds, then you havent tightened the locking nut holding the strut hat down further enough. what I did when installing the hat was hand the locking nut as far as I could. then i got and allen wrench and a vice grip and used the vice grip on the hat and placed the allen on the top thread of the strut and tightened the hat down.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
no there shouldnt be any clunking. make sure the endlinks are fully tightened. i had a clunking noise and the bottom endlink bolting the sway bar was loose. make sure the strut hat is seated properly in, sometimes if not seated properly it'll spin till it gets into its proper seating groove.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
Shift knob looks great - I agree, a smaller knob makes shifting better.
It does look a bit high now, though, since it's so small - or is that just the angle of the pic?
It does look a bit high now, though, since it's so small - or is that just the angle of the pic?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,054
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
angle, its still the same height as the OEM one. I might take my angle grinder and try to shorten the shaft. it'll just take awhile to grind all that down to get it to fit the threader to make the threads for the knob. dont mind it being higher if it was, kinda like wrc style shifters lol
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,054
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From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
Got front h&r sway on and difference is night and day. Honda get rear sway in the next month. Found a small oil leak on the back side of my head somewhere. Small drops were on my driveway. Thinking it's a seal somewhere, have to get a mirror so I can really see what's going on. Did my pillars in suede still waiting to do the head liner since it's a bigger job than I thought.
Also got the new evo-r (new E55 projectors) from TRS and thinking of using my fx-r in the high beam spot and doing dual projectors.
Also got the new evo-r (new E55 projectors) from TRS and thinking of using my fx-r in the high beam spot and doing dual projectors.
