DIY: Installing ghostrider's camber kit
#51
I'm looking into installing a camber kit on the rear of my 2006 C230 since I keep going to the cords on the inner part of the tires in about 8-9 months. Getting expensive! If I installed a camber kit, what would I need to set the camber to so I can get a little more life out of my tires? Also, where can I get the Ghostriders?
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: fort worth, tx
Posts: 5,054
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
8 Posts
06 C230 SS 6spd
hit up ghostrider, he has a thread with the kits just do a search. You can measure 12 inches from center of one mounting bolt to the other and it gets you close to OEM spec, but if you want it exact you can have a shop install it and do an alignment.
#56
Senior Member
I advice these from Ebay seller snooozie
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291203207432...84.m1423.l2649
Remb order the grease as well
(Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelube item# 301205378325)
synthetic grease makes the difference,
put a tiny drop on the thread, feel the grip when tighten the nut.
Also you can put some over the poly bushings and it will not damage the casing. Good stuff
front = k-mac...
Another tip, if you have rusty bolts/nuts, Camber Repair Kit WIS/EPC part no A 210 350 4506 these are 24 US dollars total for both sides at your local dealer for a complete set just remember say you want for boths sides.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291203207432...84.m1423.l2649
Remb order the grease as well
(Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelube item# 301205378325)
synthetic grease makes the difference,
put a tiny drop on the thread, feel the grip when tighten the nut.
Also you can put some over the poly bushings and it will not damage the casing. Good stuff
front = k-mac...
Another tip, if you have rusty bolts/nuts, Camber Repair Kit WIS/EPC part no A 210 350 4506 these are 24 US dollars total for both sides at your local dealer for a complete set just remember say you want for boths sides.
Last edited by SuperChargerE55; 08-29-2014 at 07:52 AM. Reason: adding part number
#57
Senior Member
Where do you jack up when jacking up for jack stands?
Ok since some of you have asked me to do a DIY on how to install the kit here goes.
Here are the tools you'll need to do the install. You may try other tools, but theres are the ones I found quickest to remove the bolts and control arm.
18mm wrench (I would suggest ratcheting wrenches for both)
19mm wrench
vice grip
large long flat head or something to slightly bend the inner bushing bracket (I used a bushing removal fork)
hammer (optional, but probably wont need)
silicone spray lube (optional)
car jack
jack stands
Measuring tape
If you want to shell out and spend a little money and dont want to use the ratcheting wrenches, you can buy this open socket ratchet set from kobalt. I love this tool, i've used it on installing my coilovers and other things.
Ok... on to the install now guys.
1. Loosen your rear lug bolts.
2. Place a block or something to stop the car from rolling infront of the front wheel.
3. Jack up your rear, either in middle (make sure its the frame) or by each side at the designated spots behind the side skirts.
4. Once the car is at workable height, place jack stands underneath the car.
5. Remove the wheels and set aside.
6. Here you want to locate the control arm that is close to the strut/spring.
Its the arm in the middle of the picture.
7. You want to remove the nut that is closest to you or one connected to the brake system. Here I used the vice grip on the torx bolt because the torx size is huge and I didnt have the size (its greater than a T50). Use the 18mm wrench on the nut and remove it. Just remove the nut after that, you dont have to remove the arm yet.
8. Now onto the inner bolt and nut. Using a 19mm wrench on the bolt side and a 18mm wrench on the nut side. Once the nut is off you might have to continue ratcheting the bolt to remove it from the bushing.
9. Once the bolt is off, grab your long flat head, or something to slightly bend the bracket so that the arm can drop downward.
10. After the arm is off the bracket, you can now remove the other end of the arm off. It might take some wiggling to remove it but it'll come off.
11. Now time to install the camber kit. Have the bushing screwed all the down as far as possible, but not tight, you want it loose so you can hand turn the body to get bolt hole to line up on the inner bracket.
12. First install the end closest to you/on the brake system. Place the bolt on but do not tighten it.
13. Now you can slide the inner bushing in, this is where you want to turn the body of the kit so you can line up the hole so you can put the bolt in. It may take a little time you might have to ratchet the bolt in to get it started.
14. After the bolts are in and the nuts are on, tighten them down with the tools you used to remove them.
15. Now you can do your measure the recommended length Mel suggested. He says to measure 12" from center bolt hole to center bolt hole. For this I measured the side with the nut and got as close to the center bolt as could for each end.
16. To adjust the length, use the crescent wrench and use it to turn the body of the kit. Make sure the locking nuts are loosened all the way up to the bushing. Once you get to the desired length, you can now tighten the locking nuts.
17. NOW YOUR DONE! ALMOST... just reinstall your wheels and remove your jack stands and place your car back on the ground. Your car may at first look like it has positive camber, but wait 30 mins or so to let your suspension settle back down.
NOW YOUR DONE! HOPE THIS HELPS... remember this is just how I did the install, I'm not liable for anything that you do to your car
Here are the tools you'll need to do the install. You may try other tools, but theres are the ones I found quickest to remove the bolts and control arm.
18mm wrench (I would suggest ratcheting wrenches for both)
19mm wrench
vice grip
large long flat head or something to slightly bend the inner bushing bracket (I used a bushing removal fork)
hammer (optional, but probably wont need)
silicone spray lube (optional)
car jack
jack stands
Measuring tape
If you want to shell out and spend a little money and dont want to use the ratcheting wrenches, you can buy this open socket ratchet set from kobalt. I love this tool, i've used it on installing my coilovers and other things.
Ok... on to the install now guys.
1. Loosen your rear lug bolts.
2. Place a block or something to stop the car from rolling infront of the front wheel.
3. Jack up your rear, either in middle (make sure its the frame) or by each side at the designated spots behind the side skirts.
4. Once the car is at workable height, place jack stands underneath the car.
5. Remove the wheels and set aside.
6. Here you want to locate the control arm that is close to the strut/spring.
Its the arm in the middle of the picture.
7. You want to remove the nut that is closest to you or one connected to the brake system. Here I used the vice grip on the torx bolt because the torx size is huge and I didnt have the size (its greater than a T50). Use the 18mm wrench on the nut and remove it. Just remove the nut after that, you dont have to remove the arm yet.
8. Now onto the inner bolt and nut. Using a 19mm wrench on the bolt side and a 18mm wrench on the nut side. Once the nut is off you might have to continue ratcheting the bolt to remove it from the bushing.
9. Once the bolt is off, grab your long flat head, or something to slightly bend the bracket so that the arm can drop downward.
10. After the arm is off the bracket, you can now remove the other end of the arm off. It might take some wiggling to remove it but it'll come off.
11. Now time to install the camber kit. Have the bushing screwed all the down as far as possible, but not tight, you want it loose so you can hand turn the body to get bolt hole to line up on the inner bracket.
12. First install the end closest to you/on the brake system. Place the bolt on but do not tighten it.
13. Now you can slide the inner bushing in, this is where you want to turn the body of the kit so you can line up the hole so you can put the bolt in. It may take a little time you might have to ratchet the bolt in to get it started.
14. After the bolts are in and the nuts are on, tighten them down with the tools you used to remove them.
15. Now you can do your measure the recommended length Mel suggested. He says to measure 12" from center bolt hole to center bolt hole. For this I measured the side with the nut and got as close to the center bolt as could for each end.
16. To adjust the length, use the crescent wrench and use it to turn the body of the kit. Make sure the locking nuts are loosened all the way up to the bushing. Once you get to the desired length, you can now tighten the locking nuts.
17. NOW YOUR DONE! ALMOST... just reinstall your wheels and remove your jack stands and place your car back on the ground. Your car may at first look like it has positive camber, but wait 30 mins or so to let your suspension settle back down.
NOW YOUR DONE! HOPE THIS HELPS... remember this is just how I did the install, I'm not liable for anything that you do to your car
I mean we cant really jack on the side rear jack points remove the jack and let the car hang in the thin air while putting back in the jack stands
I just want to ask I dont see other jackpoints than the rubber blocks just in front of the rear wheels, and behind front wheels..
but for jacking up doing this job exsample, please advice..
GOOD Writeup doing mine this weekend.
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
Jack at the diff for rear. And in front there is a center jacking point - can't miss it if you look/feel under the car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...nts-where.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...nts-where.html
#59
Senior Member
thx
Jack at the diff for rear. And in front there is a center jacking point - can't miss it if you look/feel under the car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...nts-where.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...nts-where.html
Thx..
3. Jack up your rear, either in middle (make sure its the frame) or by each side at the designated spots behind the side skirts
Didn't even notice it lol sorry but still thanks
But front in the middle you say,
strange I got nothing there... Ahh mine is the w208 2001 properly why..
Front I have problems my car is so low I can barely get a jack in under side jack spots
#60
Senior Member
Must be on ground
I been sitting wondering a bit abut this DIY all other torsion bar, stabilizer bar, Rod linkage stuff like this car must be on the ground else it can have negative impact...
I think I am right in this according to WIS/ASRA is very vital car is on in drive mode "Wheels on ground"
now anyone had any issues installing the camber kit with rear raised?
Pls see attached PDF
Or do I misunderstand?
DIY Love it thumbs up no doubt I just want you guys opinion on this
I think I am right in this according to WIS/ASRA is very vital car is on in drive mode "Wheels on ground"
now anyone had any issues installing the camber kit with rear raised?
Pls see attached PDF
Or do I misunderstand?
DIY Love it thumbs up no doubt I just want you guys opinion on this