New to MB, getting misfire cylinder 2 code
08-13-2011 | 01:40 PM
#26
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
2005 C230K Sedan, 6-Spd
That quote includes cylinder head replacement. Not common on a 2005 with the redesigned head. Valve fouling with older M271 engines was common. Once fixed you need to run Techron in your fuel.
Post compression values & get a second opinion. I would hate to replace a head for a coilpack or similar problem.
There is a down & dirty trick some dealers did which sometimes blows the deposit off. Run the engine at 5000 RPM unloaded for 1 hour. This is not always effective.
You need to get the valves looking like this:
Post compression values & get a second opinion. I would hate to replace a head for a coilpack or similar problem.
There is a down & dirty trick some dealers did which sometimes blows the deposit off. Run the engine at 5000 RPM unloaded for 1 hour. This is not always effective.
You need to get the valves looking like this:
I have been running nothing but Premium Chevron since 6K miles (don't know what previous owner used) and currently has 35K miles. Should I still add some Techron to clean things up? How'd you take that picture? What do I need to take out to view the valves like that?
I'll definitely get a second opinion and see what they say. Car is running smooth now, but dealer said it will get worse until it is fixed. So far I've had it idle and run rough on two occasions the last 500 miles. Right now the CEL turned itself off and is running smooth.
One thing I do want to add is that since 2007 (when I purchased car from 1st owner) this car is not a daily driver. I live in southern California and for the most part it sits in my garage 5 days a week and driven mostly on weekends. Sometimes it sits a few weeks without being started at all, as my motorcycle is my primary mode of transportation. When I do drive it, it is mostly short trips around town and RPM's rarely go over 3K. I'm embarrassed to say, but this car has been driven like a granny owns it!
Do you think this may be contributing to my problem with the P203 code? It's a 6-speed manual, do you think I should run the engine at high RPM's (over 5K) on the freeway as you mention to burn some off of the deposits?
Last edited by dpgeek; 08-13-2011 at 01:50 PM.
08-13-2011 | 06:55 PM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 453
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, CA
'04 Mars Red C230K Sport Coupe (not Coup-EH)
It may be down and dirty, but if it works...
08-13-2011 | 08:28 PM
#28
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 182
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Well the dealer uses the Star to overcome the rev limiter. In my experience the rev limiter does not actually max at 4000RPM on most engines in neutral.
08-13-2011 | 08:35 PM
#29
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 182
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Thanks for the input GMR. Yes, you are correct. The quote includes cylinder head replacement and it is for the old head to be machined, not replaced. Total replacement was $6K, lol.
I have been running nothing but Premium Chevron since 6K miles (don't know what previous owner used) and currently has 35K miles. Should I still add some Techron to clean things up? How'd you take that picture? What do I need to take out to view the valves like that?
I'll definitely get a second opinion and see what they say. Car is running smooth now, but dealer said it will get worse until it is fixed. So far I've had it idle and run rough on two occasions the last 500 miles. Right now the CEL turned itself off and is running smooth.
One thing I do want to add is that since 2007 (when I purchased car from 1st owner) this car is not a daily driver. I live in southern California and for the most part it sits in my garage 5 days a week and driven mostly on weekends. Sometimes it sits a few weeks without being started at all, as my motorcycle is my primary mode of transportation. When I do drive it, it is mostly short trips around town and RPM's rarely go over 3K. I'm embarrassed to say, but this car has been driven like a granny owns it!
Do you think this may be contributing to my problem with the P203 code? It's a 6-speed manual, do you think I should run the engine at high RPM's (over 5K) on the freeway as you mention to burn some off of the deposits?
I have been running nothing but Premium Chevron since 6K miles (don't know what previous owner used) and currently has 35K miles. Should I still add some Techron to clean things up? How'd you take that picture? What do I need to take out to view the valves like that?
I'll definitely get a second opinion and see what they say. Car is running smooth now, but dealer said it will get worse until it is fixed. So far I've had it idle and run rough on two occasions the last 500 miles. Right now the CEL turned itself off and is running smooth.
One thing I do want to add is that since 2007 (when I purchased car from 1st owner) this car is not a daily driver. I live in southern California and for the most part it sits in my garage 5 days a week and driven mostly on weekends. Sometimes it sits a few weeks without being started at all, as my motorcycle is my primary mode of transportation. When I do drive it, it is mostly short trips around town and RPM's rarely go over 3K. I'm embarrassed to say, but this car has been driven like a granny owns it!
Do you think this may be contributing to my problem with the P203 code? It's a 6-speed manual, do you think I should run the engine at high RPM's (over 5K) on the freeway as you mention to burn some off of the deposits?
If you have access to a boroscope you can examine valves without stripping.
The 6K quote is b/s if it does not include a new head.
