Trying to diagnose my problem.
03-04-2011, 12:57 PM
#26
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RHD C200 Sport Coupe, RHD SLK-55, LHD SLK-350
Yep - If the car battery is connected then the EIS is partially energised at all times awaiting insertion of a key - sort of sleep mode IIRC. I don't think it dies completely with closing & locking the doors. Correct me if I'm wrong. The EIS is the top of the control pyramid. Otherwise what wakes up the CANBUS? I'm interested!
That was one of the many MB staff training courses I attended on a train the trainer basis but my memory could well be fading.
getting old!
At one time in my life I used to try & stick my head into every OEM staff course I could. From MB to Cummins, SKF, DD & Allison, Mining gear, Steel gear, Sugar gear, Paper gear, Powergen gear etc. ad infinitum.
Unlike some - I'm always willing to learn. Try to refresh or learn something new every day. Known as the "sponge" in my job. Not in the derogatory sense
I don't have deep pockets 
That is the very strength of these forums. We all learn from one another. There is always someone that knows more than you about something.
That was one of the many MB staff training courses I attended on a train the trainer basis but my memory could well be fading.
getting old!At one time in my life I used to try & stick my head into every OEM staff course I could. From MB to Cummins, SKF, DD & Allison, Mining gear, Steel gear, Sugar gear, Paper gear, Powergen gear etc. ad infinitum.
Unlike some - I'm always willing to learn. Try to refresh or learn something new every day. Known as the "sponge" in my job. Not in the derogatory sense
I don't have deep pockets That is the very strength of these forums. We all learn from one another. There is always someone that knows more than you about something.
Hey - I'm reaching the point that everything that flows in now causes something to flow out - gray matter ain't what it used to be!
I was oversimplifying my description above - trying to describe the MB DAS in less than a book is impossible - and I said "EIS Socket", which is technically correct (I think!), but not really helpful!
EIS - the switch assembly is really more than one device. It's a bridge component, and lives on CAN-B and CAN-C. The ATA and CGW are also bridge devices, and as such live on B&C; the CGW lives on CAN-D as well.
As I understand it, the ATA and CGW are always alive if the car has battery power, (and yes, I know ATA has it's own battery! :-)) ATA RF component is what "listens" for the "unlock" signal from the remote.
The CAN-C component of the EIS is also alive in a low power state. It's not 100% clear that this is doing anything other than waiting for an ATA RF signal to answer "is this a valid unlock" code.
The CAN-B component of the EIS is the actual "key" switch, induction power ring, and steering lock. This is only "alive" when the CGW commands the car to wake up.
I'll go dig up my notes, but that's the way I remember it! :-) I guess I could test it by unlocking my car, sitting in it, disabling the interior motion sensor, closing the door, and then waiting the 25 minutes or so it takes the car to go to sleep, and then try and see if inserting the key wakes her up or not...
This sorta makes sense to me as I recall when reading that the induction ring was well over an amp of draw when powered, and thinking how inefficient induction charging really is.
Last edited by UK-C200; 03-04-2011 at 01:02 PM. Reason: speling :P
03-04-2011, 01:56 PM
#27
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That kind of sounds correct. The induction coils only activate when you push the key into the "socket". Or you would have a flat battery.
When I say EIS - I mean the entire gubbins.
As you say in your PM we are both correct. Depends on definition.
You have *****ed my interest to go back & go over the sequence. Have it somewhere.
When I say EIS - I mean the entire gubbins.
As you say in your PM we are both correct. Depends on definition.
You have *****ed my interest to go back & go over the sequence. Have it somewhere.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-04-2011 at 02:01 PM.
03-04-2011, 06:26 PM
#29
That would be crazy if there was a computer program that attached to a device that started what you mention: "The CAN-C component of the EIS is also alive in a low power state [...] waiting for an ATA RF signal to answer "is this a valid unlock" code.
I mean everything is just 1's and 0's right? You just got to get one thing to send a 1 or a 0 signal that the code has been accepted.
I guess the reason everything is so hard is to prevent theft. Honestly, I just wish it was a lot easier, to prevent spending 2 grand for EIS repacement and a new key etc..
Intruiging info yall!
I mean everything is just 1's and 0's right? You just got to get one thing to send a 1 or a 0 signal that the code has been accepted.
I guess the reason everything is so hard is to prevent theft. Honestly, I just wish it was a lot easier, to prevent spending 2 grand for EIS repacement and a new key etc..
Intruiging info yall!
03-04-2011, 06:38 PM
#30
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Hey guys,
Thanks for the advice! Would rubbing alcohol work as a electrical contact cleaner? Or goof off? I don't have a car so I wouldn't be able to go to any specialty stores around here. I'm thinking this might be the cause, because I did spray Meguiar's quick detailer in and around the area.
Glyn: Should I swap it out with a 20a? I remember seeing some threads where they added a higher amp fuse.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!
Thanks for the advice! Would rubbing alcohol work as a electrical contact cleaner? Or goof off? I don't have a car so I wouldn't be able to go to any specialty stores around here. I'm thinking this might be the cause, because I did spray Meguiar's quick detailer in and around the area.
Glyn: Should I swap it out with a 20a? I remember seeing some threads where they added a higher amp fuse.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!
03-04-2011, 07:13 PM
#31
Super Moderator
Thanks John - I would not recommend going up in fuse value unless MB OK'ed this. Does that apply to all MY's? I would hate to cook someones harness or worse.
Mu - looks like you were right. I did not know that.
Mu - looks like you were right. I did not know that.
03-04-2011, 07:19 PM
#32
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RHD C200 Sport Coupe, RHD SLK-55, LHD SLK-350
That kind of sounds correct. The induction coils only activate when you push the key into the "socket". Or you would have a flat battery.
When I say EIS - I mean the entire gubbins.
As you say in your PM we are both correct. Depends on definition.
You have *****ed my interest to go back & go over the sequence. Have it somewhere.
When I say EIS - I mean the entire gubbins.
As you say in your PM we are both correct. Depends on definition.
You have *****ed my interest to go back & go over the sequence. Have it somewhere.
If you find it, post me a copy - I've spent the last couple of hours looking for the DAS manual I had, but haven't managed to lay hands on it!
03-04-2011, 07:42 PM
#33
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I too have been looking. Have not found it yet - Mine is in a ppt. training presentation. Must be on one of many, many flash drives or one of my spare backup hard drives. My filing is poor!
03-07-2011, 05:13 PM
#34
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01' C32o
Hey guys!
Lots of stuff to catch up on, haha. Car is still in the garage, nothing has been done yet. My SA has been out sick, so I haven't brought it to the dealership. Trying to go tomorrow, but all the new info is making me anxious.
John: I would love to see more info on this larger fuse scenario. I really don't want to pay the gripload to fix my car, so any last desperate options would still be awesome.
So the battery might be the culprit huh? It's weird how it just dies out of nowhere tho
Lots of stuff to catch up on, haha. Car is still in the garage, nothing has been done yet. My SA has been out sick, so I haven't brought it to the dealership. Trying to go tomorrow, but all the new info is making me anxious.
John: I would love to see more info on this larger fuse scenario. I really don't want to pay the gripload to fix my car, so any last desperate options would still be awesome.
So the battery might be the culprit huh? It's weird how it just dies out of nowhere tho
03-14-2011, 08:52 AM
#35
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01' C32o
Update: Towed my car to the dealership in hopes that a new key will work. Well, $300 later, the car still wouldn't work. However, my SA told me that it may not be the EIS, but the steering wheel lock. Apparently, the lock is worn or something, and can't unlock. So instead of the original $1200, it goes from $1300-$1900 for the repair.
03-22-2011, 07:37 PM
#38
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Larger Fuse DTB
I posted the DTB on the larger fuse in the Technical Information Library here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/4585218-post8.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/4585218-post8.html
