07 C230 65K mi. Wont start & no fuel pressure at rail
04-24-2011, 08:30 PM
#5
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2007 c230 sport
Yeah it seems that way.
It's minor compared to what happend a couple of weeks ago. The Torque Convertor output shaft seized in the bushing and broke off; destroying the pump, bell housing and the torque convertor. $4200.00 later...
It's minor compared to what happend a couple of weeks ago. The Torque Convertor output shaft seized in the bushing and broke off; destroying the pump, bell housing and the torque convertor. $4200.00 later...
04-24-2011, 09:32 PM
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C240
Ouch man.. I hope this one is less painful..
04-24-2011, 10:34 PM
#7
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I think cpbeasley's car was heading for that!
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04-25-2011, 09:40 AM
#9
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No it's not common John. Anything that stops the pump running in these boxes is obviously trouble. If you rev the car in neutral & get a high pitched whine/howl from the bellhousing area it's time to shut things down & investigate. Little South Africa has sold 60% as many W204's as the US - mainly auto - & this is not common. My service manager is at pains to advise that if you service these 722.9 transmissions every 60,000Km & use the correct fluid they will do massive mileage. We have some very high milers in SA already that are still absolutely fine. I would say that the 1st to 2nd one way clutch failure on the 722.6 was more common & that only seems to show itself in taxi service in Europe at very high miles. The 722.9 design program was all around learning from common 722.6 failures & simplifying the transmission (other than the extra ratios) while increasing electronic control.
04-26-2011, 06:44 PM
#12
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Sorry - got it wrong. It was Cale commenting on another car & he was correct! I think I must be sleep deprived.
04-26-2011, 08:18 PM
#13
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It was this thread that had us all guessing a Cale guessed right.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ighlight=noise
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ighlight=noise
04-28-2011, 06:37 PM
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2002 S500
test for the pump
the fuel pump should be in the tank, accessable under the back seat. sometimes the pins in the connector gets lose causing the pump not to run. if you have any knowledge of electrical connectors, disconnect the pump and put direct power on the pump, if it runs you know the pump is good.
04-29-2011, 02:41 PM
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2007 c230 sport
Johnand,
The car is my daughter's and is about 40mi from where I live. I plan on arming myself with a VOM and tools this weekend and try to get to the bottom of it. So far all I've been able to do is direct someone by phone to hold their finger on the relay while someone turns on the ignition. They claim to have felt it clicking.
The car is my daughter's and is about 40mi from where I live. I plan on arming myself with a VOM and tools this weekend and try to get to the bottom of it. So far all I've been able to do is direct someone by phone to hold their finger on the relay while someone turns on the ignition. They claim to have felt it clicking.
04-30-2011, 04:20 PM
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2007 c230 sport
Hi John,
I spent some time working on this today. I started by pulling the relay and found that water had somehow fallen on the top of the SAM and had some corrosion on the contacts. I cleaned up the contacts, tested the relay with 12v external source and it worked. But I only have 8.5 volts at the terminals at it wont operate the relay when plugged in.
When I jump the contacts at the socket (bypassing the relay) I do get 12V at the pump terminals, but the pump still didn't run. I also tried an external power source and still can't make the pump run.
As weird as it sounds, I think I need to replace both or find out if there is resistance at the terminals of the relay socket only supplying 8.5V.
Do you know if I have to loosen that large hose clamp around that plastic cover before spinning it out? to get the pump out?
I spent some time working on this today. I started by pulling the relay and found that water had somehow fallen on the top of the SAM and had some corrosion on the contacts. I cleaned up the contacts, tested the relay with 12v external source and it worked. But I only have 8.5 volts at the terminals at it wont operate the relay when plugged in.
When I jump the contacts at the socket (bypassing the relay) I do get 12V at the pump terminals, but the pump still didn't run. I also tried an external power source and still can't make the pump run.
As weird as it sounds, I think I need to replace both or find out if there is resistance at the terminals of the relay socket only supplying 8.5V.
Do you know if I have to loosen that large hose clamp around that plastic cover before spinning it out? to get the pump out?
Last edited by lmayhew; 04-30-2011 at 04:23 PM.
04-30-2011, 08:20 PM
#18
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See post 4 here.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-attempt.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...se-latch-1.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-fuel-pump.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-attempt.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...se-latch-1.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-fuel-pump.pdf
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 04-30-2011 at 08:26 PM.
05-01-2011, 11:00 AM
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Hi John,
I spent some time working on this today. I started by pulling the relay and found that water had somehow fallen on the top of the SAM and had some corrosion on the contacts. I cleaned up the contacts, tested the relay with 12v external source and it worked. But I only have 8.5 volts at the terminals at it wont operate the relay when plugged in.
When I jump the contacts at the socket (bypassing the relay) I do get 12V at the pump terminals, but the pump still didn't run. I also tried an external power source and still can't make the pump run.
As weird as it sounds, I think I need to replace both or find out if there is resistance at the terminals of the relay socket only supplying 8.5V.
Do you know if I have to loosen that large hose clamp around that plastic cover before spinning it out? to get the pump out?
I spent some time working on this today. I started by pulling the relay and found that water had somehow fallen on the top of the SAM and had some corrosion on the contacts. I cleaned up the contacts, tested the relay with 12v external source and it worked. But I only have 8.5 volts at the terminals at it wont operate the relay when plugged in.
When I jump the contacts at the socket (bypassing the relay) I do get 12V at the pump terminals, but the pump still didn't run. I also tried an external power source and still can't make the pump run.
As weird as it sounds, I think I need to replace both or find out if there is resistance at the terminals of the relay socket only supplying 8.5V.
Do you know if I have to loosen that large hose clamp around that plastic cover before spinning it out? to get the pump out?
Yes, loosen the stainless clamp (8mm if I remember correctly) until you can pull it off the plastic cap. Then pull the plastic cap apart and off the tank.
05-01-2011, 10:00 PM
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
12V while cranking at the pump. In my car I had no voltage at the pump with the key on. In had to actually start cranking before I saw 12V at the pump.
