How many problems with your C? What kind? Reliability? Which Years?
136,600 miles
Replaced spark plugs, serp. belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, tranny mount, water pump,thermostat, and had some body work done.
No major problems…I get the service A/B when instructed although it is a ripe off but I do not trust another shop to handle my car...I am still under the extended warranty…
PROBLEM: Slow air leak on front passenger tire…dealer said I need a new wheel…the cost $900 or $500 online…I just keep the tire filled with air until I can get it fixed…
I love my hot cherry red C230…would not trade it for the world…one day I will buy an E class…I’m still young so the C is still an upgrade!!!
Thanks for replying…the dealership told me to apply "Bead Sealer" to the tire to stop the leak but I can not find a shop that has it or will apply it
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
. The car has had 1 brake job, plugs changed twice, and still on the original clutch, and shocks. This has been the most reliable car I have owned. No squeaks or rattles (pano roof will squeak on occasion, but a quick cleaning with silicon and it's back to no noise). Still feels as solid as when I purchased it in 9/2002. Hope I didn't jinx myself.
My car is noise when gear is (D or R)...the noise is coming somevere engine front or near the front wheel replaced by careful listening. The voice is like Clank / NOP NOP NOP / plop plop plop. Sound stops when you switch (N or P) It must be a typical fault. Since my test drive the other car to give the same sound but about 10 times quieter than my car. My car is very noise. Does your car same noise if you listen very carefully?
Is this typical or is it tell somekind of problem, I dont know?
My car is noise when gear is (D or R)...the noise is coming somevere engine front or near the front wheel replaced by careful listening. The voice is like Clank / NOP NOP NOP / plop plop plop. Sound stops when you switch (N or P) It must be a typical fault. Since my test drive the other car to give the same sound but about 10 times quieter than my car. My car is very noise. Does your car same noise if you listen very carefully?
Is this typical or is it tell somekind of problem, I dont know?
the noise is coming from when there is a weight shift in the engine bay. Its either a loose engine mount of a worn engine mount.

Also - sometimes when we have these "typical" noises they are amplified by other things. i.e more than one thing wrong.
e.g. It could be a combination of mounting & purge valve.
Is it difficult to repair? Expensive?
But : Do you mean flywheel or flex disc? If the fault flywheel or flex disc, so free (N) is also NOP NOP NOP?. My car is no sound (N)
Last edited by C320 Make; Sep 10, 2010 at 01:09 PM.
1. install ipod adapter (save money and install navtv) cable and amplifier installed but sounds is below par distortion on certain songs no matter how many kbps
2. cam sensor replaced
3. O2 sensor replaced
issues:
1. sunroof will stop and reopen (i think pinch sensor is going bad)
2. radio out of the blue wouldn't display but all functions worked
wants:
phone connection but cost is astronomical in my opinion $1800 dealer installed
auxillary jack from MB but they don't make
a power outlet in trunk (will do once out of warranty)
Is someone kind and tell me what this means, a loose engine mount, which is an engine mount? I would like more information if this is possible.
Engine mount is the Finnish language stand to raise the motor car, this is funny in different languages

Are there any cross-sectional image / "exploded view"?
Last edited by C320 Make; Sep 11, 2010 at 03:20 AM.

My '02 C320 has 135k, and is driven daily. Overall, its been fun to drive, reliable, and good to know that it is such a safe car.
It still gets about 22 mpg around town and as much as 29 mpg highway. Why replace it w/a beater.
Problems:
* Lots of **** while under the extended warranty so I won't go into that.
* Starting to use an extra qt of oil or more in b/n oil changes (every 10k)
* Driver seat doesn't move fore/aft unless the convenience feature does it for you...ie the control to adjust is shot
* minor body mouldings such as the small rubber gaskets near windows are disintegrating and falling off (despite using lexol over the years). None of my other cars (Acura, Hondas, Chevies) had this problem
* AC compressor needs to be replaced, but at $1200 + via my Indy
* For the most part, it s typical wear for an 8 year old car.
This is the kind of car you drive until it falls apart. The so-called book value of it is crap at this point ($6,500 - $7,000). My kids get to enjoy driving a MB for their 1st car.
Last edited by Alan B; Sep 12, 2010 at 08:41 AM.

I got an CPO '06 C230 with about 46K miles for my wife and a day or two later, I got an '05 C230K with about 36K miles for me.
My wife's car as been pretty reliable with no real issues other than maintenance. My car, on the other hand has had several issues. Thankfully I got an extended warranty from CarMax where I got it because shortly after I got it the air bag wiring harness fried itself ad a while later, the A/C compressor went out. After my warranty expired, my A/C compressor went out again - this time because the sprag bearing on the alternator (I don't know what caused the first one to go).
Thankfully, since the latest A/C compressor, my car has been pretty reliable, but for all that to happen in less than three years is not very encouraging.
Ok, the cubby hole below the radio started to tear and come apart today. The AC knobs also have peeling issues. The headliner is beginning to separate from the structure. The back of the front headrests plastic covers have completely snapped off. The back of the front seats cloth covering also is separating from the underlying structure. WTF?
The car is garaged and covered in said garage. Less than 50000 miles. The car is rarely driven and has spent it's entire life in Florida. An economy beater that is driven hard with no care given, than I could expect it, but a Benz that is babied, no freaking way. I will soon be in the market for one if not two new cars. MB will not be on my list due to quality issues.
~30k miles, thermostat failed. Replaced under warranty (would have been $105)
(Also at this time, I complained about how the transmissions shifted. "Could not replicate problem" was their response")
~80k miles, turbine speed sensor failed. This part is part of the conductor board. MB would not sell me or an indy shop the part. They had to diagnose, replace, and reprogram at a dealer. I towed the car there (luckily I have a truck and access to a trailer.) The repair took about a week and cost $1,055. They also updated my TCM with the newest software, and the car shifts beautifully now. Apparently someone replicated the problem...
94k miles - The dreaded balance shaft issue. (Well, strongly suspected. I've yet to come across a boroscope and I can't afford to fix it anyway.) I get the codes saying that the intake and exhaust cams on the same bank are out of time with the crank, which seems to be the tell-tale sign. The dealer parts dept quoted me ~1,100 in parts, but then a friend of a friend gave me a longer list of required parts and a discount on them (the same PN's are cheaper than going direclty through the dealer, but additional parts more than negate the savings) to total $1,400.
Just paid the car off, and I can't even drive it until the engine comes out and I replace these parts.
The first 80k miles were great though...
I got it with 57k oct 11 now feb 13 with 78k...so far only replaced 1 tie rod and a light bulb !
i must be playing with fire
batt/alt esp come on I know the fix but annoying...
Can someone tell me what to do in what order to prevent a major repair bill?
brakes of course, fuel filter? voltage reg? get complete diagnosis? had MB do the free check may 12 ... only needed brakes they said.




