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Xenon light problem

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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Xenon light problem

Hi,
I have OEM Xenon lights in my car, but my drivers side light went out. Went and got a new bulb, but still not working...what else should I check?

Thanks,
Danny
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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I drive a Toyota Hybrid...
ballst
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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ok. where is it located? are the left/right the same? Can I switch them to see if the problem moves?
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dandbest
ok. where is it located? are the left/right the same? Can I switch them to see if the problem moves?
metal box on bottom of light you have to remove the drivers side one to get it off. and yes if the issue does not move you have a bad ignitor or wire issue.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Ok thanks. Is there a place I can find directions on removing the headlight? Is it a pain in the ****?
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dandbest
Ok thanks. Is there a place I can find directions on removing the headlight? Is it a pain in the ****?
Yeah do a search around here it is not bad just takes patience and a few hours of time. You have to unbolt the bumper and either remove it or pull it off some to get to the lights.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Just searched...found nothing. Can someone please show me where the directions for removing the headlights are? Many thanks and Harry crishnas!
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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The device mounted on the bottom of the headlight housing is an igniter and power supply.
It supplies 25,000 volts to strike an arc in the lamp, it then furnishes about 85 volts to the terminals to maintain the arc. Xenon gas is used to start the arc, and metallic salts keep it running. The power supply also limits the current flowing in the arc.

Prior to ripping off the bumper and pulling out the headlight housing to acess the power supply, make a couple of observations. Look carefully at the lamp capsule. It must be hospital clean for the arc to start. Use isopropyl alcohol to swab it with a lint free cloth. Now examine the lamp socket. Is there any discoloration of the insulator material? Any carbon tracks? Any bits missing from melting? Clean it with a warm soapy rag, then use an alcohol rinse to remove the water. Allow time for the connector to dry. Bone dry. Do not turn on the lights with even a hint of moisture or alcohol on the lamp or connector.

Look carefully around the housing. Use a dental mirror to peer inside. Look for any signs of a carbon track or discoloration from excessive heat. You cannot clean inside without damaging the reflector, but you can use a dry cloth to wipe the exterior connector area.

Lastly examine the connector for the housing and bix motor. Unplug them and look for corrosion or dirt. Clean with alcohol or CRC contact cleaner. Mate and remove them a few times to allow the pin and socket terminals to "wipe" each other to remove surface oxide.

If still no joy, swap the lamps prior to getting out the tools. Mind the tabs on the housings, that is what breaks easily. If the supply is bad, use OEM only to save yourself a headache later on.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 01:10 AM
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^ Insanely great info!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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Wow! Awesome info indeed! Thanks, I'll try that before ripping off the bumper
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Ok, cleaned all the contacts, swapped bulbs and it looks like its the ballast. How do I remove this bumper so I can take the headlight off?
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post2333330
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks!
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