Upgrading stereo
It is actually way more integrated then just plugging in a bose amp and sub. The speakers are wired completely different and you would need to program the car to use the bose amp. The stock streo has speaker wires plug straight into the head unit. In the bose setup the sound goes from the head unit over the fiber network to the amp in the trunk and then out to each speaker.





If you are serious about sound don't buy Bose. It does not crack it. You can do a lot better out there for the money.
Trending Topics




My home system is primarily Bose and I LOVE LOVE LOVE it...but in a car, the acoustics are very different from a house. Im not going to explain how as that should be fairly obvious. But Bose relies on the same technology as above for car systems which needless to say goes terribly wrong. Thwy were hoping that that the hype they had developed with home systems would carry over to their car systems and people would be wiling to pay an arm and a leg for the Bose badge in their car (and many not very tech savvy people do), but for an audio connoisseur, one listen to the sound quality of a Bose system should be enough for quick decision.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

While many speakers could be used as an example I will pick one. Put a set of relatively cheap Magneplanar MG 1.7s in your room with reasonable upstream gear & they will blow the best Bose can do into outer space.
Put a set of MG 20.1's or even the new MG 3.7's in your system & you will find audio nirvana without having to spend $120,000 on a pair of speakers.
To answer Tommy's question, yes, I'd go with Bose.

I got it because I wanted to have something that would last throughout the warranty without having the dealership try to screw me out of warranty-related fixes, and $750 over a 5-year loan is really nothing, but I've never been happy with how the radio sounds. With the sunroof open and windows down, it's really pitiful. Volume is more critical in the ccoupe, as the sunroof really does suck the sound away.




While many speakers could be used as an example I will pick one. Put a set of relatively cheap Magneplanar MG 1.7s in your room with reasonable upstream gear & they will blow the best Bose can do into outer space.
Put a set of MG 20.1's or even the new MG 3.7's in your system & you will find audio nirvana without having to spend $120,000 on a pair of speakers.
I have the Macintosh cube system (independent amplifiers in separate enclosures for each distinct channel) running Bose speakers in my 7.1 HT system. However, the Bose speakers are the Bose 901 Series 2 circa 1987, and they sound terrific. Completely agree with you in that Ive heard lesser reviews about the newer Bose speakers.





I got it because I wanted to have something that would last throughout the warranty without having the dealership try to screw me out of warranty-related fixes, and $750 over a 5-year loan is really nothing, but I've never been happy with how the radio sounds. With the sunroof open and windows down, it's really pitiful. Volume is more critical in the ccoupe, as the sunroof really does suck the sound away.
How hard is it to upgrade/downgrade from the Bose system to a regular AVIC? If its not going to be too intense, I would definitely recommend it. Even a good head unit attached to the stock speakers sounds pretty good!!




Im just saying that the technology that Bose systems are based on wouldnt work well in a car IMHO.

I run 20.1's & 3.6's in a full surround array with 4 Velodyne subs for HT only not serious music.
MG 3.7's are $5800 a pair & MG 20.1's are $13000 a pair in the US - you lucky guys.
I like the wood surrounds but I'm a traditionalist & have owned many generations of Maggies & other speakers like top B&W's. If you don't like light oak or cherry etc you can now have aluminium in different colours with a variety of cloth colours.



Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 18, 2011 at 03:24 PM.
Im just saying that the technology that Bose systems are based on wouldnt work well in a car IMHO.




I run 20.1's & 3.6's in a full surround array with 4 Velodyne subs for HT only not serious music.
MG 3.7's are $5800 a pair & MG 20.1's are $13000 a pair in the US - you lucky guys.
I like the wood surrounds but I'm a traditionalist & have owned many generations of Maggies & other speakers like top B&W's. If you don't like light oak or cherry etc you can now have aluminium in different colours with a variety of cloth colours.




I run 20.1's & 3.6's in a full surround array with 4 Velodyne subs for HT only not serious music.
MG 3.7's are $5800 a pair & MG 20.1's are $13000 a pair in the US - you lucky guys.
I like the wood surrounds but I'm a traditionalist & have owned many generations of Maggies & other speakers like top B&W's. If you don't like light oak or cherry etc you can now have aluminium in different colours with a variety of cloth colours.
Wow those look amazing!!

I would say that these look way better than most other speakers in a lounge, but I guess the size skews that a bit LOL.
I love the cherry finishes myself...I had my Bose 901's from the 80's re-panelled with a cherry finish. They were originally regular wood color. I might have to try out the MG's with my Macintosh setup after seeing those pics!! Unfortunately I live in a loft. Not much room for big speakers (or garages for auto DIYers) in these tiny units

BTW...I live in Canada...where we pay 2.5x the prices in the US on everything from toothpaste to BMW's LOL. Im sure its the same with audio equipment.
4 Velodyne subs???
How big is your theater room?

Only warning with Maggies is that they need amplifiers with decent current capability. They are otherwise easy to drive as they are a purely resistive load.




Only warning with Maggies is that they need amplifiers with decent current capability. They are otherwise easy to drive as they are a purely resistive load.
Power :2x 100W (4 Ohm, 10Hz...20Khz)
2x 100W (8 Ohm, 10Hz...20Khz)
2x 185W (4 Ohm, 1Khz, DIN)
THD : less than 0,005% (full power, 1Khz, 8 Ohm, DIN)
Frequency response : 5Hz - 100Khz (+0 / -1dB, AUX input)
S/N ratio : > 90dB (phono MM)
> 72dB (phono MC)
> 110dB (lines)
It has a special DC non-switching circuit to prevent relay lag and switching distortion. That should do a pretty good job I think.
If it weren't for the repairs, I would have had a new h/u in my car by now, but now, I don't feel like throwing that much into it; that would be a good chunk on the down payment for my next car. And at this point, it's almost cool enough to keep the windows up, which means that a b1chin' stereo isn't really needed until April/May.

Power :2x 100W (4 Ohm, 10Hz...20Khz)
2x 100W (8 Ohm, 10Hz...20Khz)
2x 185W (4 Ohm, 1Khz, DIN)
THD : less than 0,005% (full power, 1Khz, 8 Ohm, DIN)
Frequency response : 5Hz - 100Khz (+0 / -1dB, AUX input)
S/N ratio : > 90dB (phono MM)
> 72dB (phono MC)
> 110dB (lines)
It has a special DC non-switching circuit to prevent relay lag and switching distortion. That should do a pretty good job I think.
Good luck!
To the OP, I would go aftermarket. It is much cheaper and easier to get decent sound quality. But, you can't beat OEM for aesthetics.
Glyn, I have had the pleasure to listen to several varieties of MG's, and I have always been impressed


