Wfaizan

I want to replace the HU in my 04 CLK 320. I have never done such a thing before in any car so please bare with me.

What is a simple way for me to replace my HU with an aftermarket HU? I don't want to have to replace the speakers.

Is this possible? I keep reading about PAC OEM-2. If I have this, will it allow me to keep using my original speakers? Also, what is the difference between PAC OEM-2 and PAC SOEM-4? Can I use either in my car?

I don't need the steering wheel controls, but if it is possible, what is the cheapest way to retain my steering wheel controls?

I've read many threads. But the threads are very old. Are there parts that make this installation easy now a days? Or is the old method the only method in doing this install?

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me.

Thanks in advance!

tw2

You definitely have bose correct? Sorry I am not familiar enough with the PAC products to comment but I can tell you how I would do it. I didn't have bose so it was easy. Your speakers are 2 ohms with bose. I would simply install a head unit same as I did in my C32 here or you can check the thread I made when I did it in my CLK55 from my sig.

Run RCA's to the trunk. Remove the bose amplifier. Find an amplifier that is 2 ohm stable to run your bose speakers and wire it in that or a nearby location. I cannot confirm this will definitely work but it sounds logical in my mind.

Steering wheel controls- do exactly what I did in both threads. The metra ASWC unit is cheap and awesome. There are no new or old methods just different ways of achieving the same thing. You can do what I suggest (easiest if it works), you can use the PAC products and retain the bose amp (relatively easy but needs some extra research) or you can gut the whole lot and put in new everything (difficult).

Wfaizan

The truth is I actually don't know if has bose speakers or not. I've read enough forums to hope that it isn't. The car is in the shop getting the bumper and fender fixed. Once I get it back I'll check.

Quick question is this double din dash kit sufficient: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331070932265...S:1123&vxp=mtr

If it isn't bose, with this kit would it be a simple plug in play?

Also, is this what you were referring to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASWC-AXXESS-METRA-STEERING-WHEEL-CONTROL-INTERFACE-/251532242475?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

tw2

What country are you in? Most CLK's have the upgraded audio and almost definitely every one if you are in the UK or USA from what I have been told. Look at my thread to see how to find out https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...rness-etc.html the easiest way is to look at the top of the sub since it will be 4 ohm without bose.

That dash kit should work, it says it is for the C32 which should be the same. I used the exact same part number in my CLK that I used in the C.

If you don't have bose yes this is easy just do what I did, the head unit can simply run the stock speakers. Yes that is the correct metra axxess steering wheel control interface. It will work with most aftermarket head units with the 3.5mm stereo jack on the back for steering wheel control. Its very cheap and easy to use in my opinion so I would definitely get it. I currently use vol up/down and I use telephone answer and hang up for track up/down.

Wfaizan

I live in the US. Based on the fact that I am in the states I am going to assume that it is a bose setup.

What did you mean when you said this "The other option is to use SWI-CAN which converts the steering wheel interface signal to a universal one, then use SWI-JACK (or other) to convert the signal to the brand of head unit you have. JACK covers JVC, Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, there is one for eclipse, panasonic/sony and a couple of others. This seemed more complicated for no reason so I did not go this way. If you have bose this is a good choice since you can use PAC-OEM to use the stock amplifier despite the optical cables."?

Does it matter what type of antenna adapter I get? I noticed the HU I got for free (old but whatever I got it for free DNX5140) as a female connection. Just in case I am wrong, do I need an adapter for this HU?

Will this guide work: http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/headunit2.html

Because if it does, then I don't need to buy a new amp and do all that wiring which I am afraid of doing. Mainly because at this point I have no clue what all the wiring is and I have never done it.

tw2

Yes that guide will work, that is where a lot of that info came from and it is linked to in my writeup. I am not sure which antenna adapter you will need, the one I link to is for a standard aftermarket head unit which have a female connector, you will have to make a decision based on what you have. I am guessing you will need the same one, they are $4 so not a problem if it is not the right one.

Read Marcus' web page well. I read it 10 times before I fully grasped how it works. The steering wheel interface from the benz is not a standard signal, no head unit will recogize what it is receiving. The CAN converts this signal to a univeral one. Then the SWI-JACK takes the universal signal and converts it again to one that the specific head unit will accept. This is much much more annoying and difficult than the metra axxess aswi, I see no benefit.

PAC-OEM is to covert the standard head unit outputs to the stock standard bose amp in your car. I don't know anything more than what is on the website. As I mentioned in a previous post, this is a very good option but you wont get away from having to wire a couple of things.

I personally would much rather have an aftermarket amp than the bose one and not need the PAC-OEM but that is entirely your choice. All you would have to do is run RCA's to your new amplifier and hopefully use most of the original wiring to run it.

This stuff is daunting when you start but it is actually quite simple once you get your head around it, it just takes lots of research and understanding how amps and head units work and what they need. The only way to screw it up is to have a 12V wire go somewhere it shouldn't or ground itself.

Wfaizan

Just to make sure, there are two methods I am currently aware of.

1.The method that was posted on marcus's webpage: I would need to buy:
A. PAC OEM-2 or PAC SOEM-4 (If I am correct the 4 is an updated model for it so it should work the same. Anyone know anything about this?)
B. ASWC AXXESS METRA STEERING WHEEL CONTROL INTERFACE
C. Antenna Adapter
D. Wiring Harness (Will the wiring harness I mentioned in my earlier post that comes with the double dash bin be sufficient?) (Or should I just get this wiring harness (What is the difference between 71 1784 and 70 1784? Some forums say use 70 1784 and others says 71 1784.)
E. Head Unit

With this method, beside the wiring around the head unit, I don't have to deal with much of the speaker wiring. Or am I wrong with this assumption? Also, I need to clarify with this method (with the PAC OEM-2 or PAC SOEM-4) what will happen to the D2B Fiber Optic cable? My car has Audio30. I've been reading conflicting reports that the Fiber Optic Cable is only used for the CD Changer. If this is the case I don't need the CD changer at all. Now if I understand marcus's guide, it shows that if you have a wiring harness you connect that to the PAC OEM-2 and the wiring harness connects to the plug in your car that is connected to the bose amplifier. And this way you can use your cars original speakers. Reading other forums I've come to the conclusion I don't even need the PAC OEM-2 and just using a wiring harness connecting that to the HU and the other end to the plug in the car that is connected to the bose amplifier. It will work as well, but the quality isn't good.

Reading so many different things, I can't seem to understand what the whole issue was in the beginning with using the original speakers. The most I understand is that the quality won't be that good and that is mainly because of the type of speakers the bose are (balanced) and how most of the HU use (unbalanced). I could be %100 wrong in understanding any of this. I hope you can clarify the confusion for me.

2. The other method is that I replace the bose amplifier with another amplifier. Then I take RCA cables from the HU to the amplifier. And the cables that were connected (speaker wires) to the bose amplifier I can connect those cables to the new amplifier. If this is even possible I would need to buy:
A. ASWC AXXESS METRA STEERING WHEEL CONTROL INTERFACE
B. Antenna Adapter
C. Wiring Harness
D. Head Unit

Is there anything I am missing? Does any of this make any sense? Also, Marcus's guide is for an W208. I think my car is W209. But I don't even know how to find that out. I know that some cars come with Audio 10 and some with Audio 30. Does this make a difference?

Sorry for the long post and for asking so many questions. Thanks in advance!

Update: Upon further reading I have come to understand that in some cars the Fiber Optic cable is connected to the amp and in some cars it is connected to the CD Changer. And if it is connected to the amp that is where the problem occurs. Is there any way to know for sure if my car's fiber optic cable is connected to the amp or just the CD changer?

tw2

I don't know about the wire harness in that kit as they don't have a part number that I could see. The one you have linked to from amazon you will see is a male plug. You will need the female version. I used but I cannot be sure what the loom from the car looks like with bose, someone else will have to confirm. The rest on your list looks correct. Correct, if you do the PAC method you will not have to touch the speaker wires, all the wiring will be in the dash behind the head unit.

The bose speakers are 2 ohm (rare) and most head units cannot run them. Aftermarket units run 4 ohm and occasionally 8 ohm speakers. Also no aftermarket unit can interface with the optical cable and hence the bose amplifier without a lot of help (PAC products).

2. The other method is that I replace the bose amplifier with another amplifier. Then I take RCA cables from the HU to the amplifier. And the cables that were connected (speaker wires) to the bose amplifier I can connect those cables to the new amplifier. If this is even possible I would need to buy:
A. ASWC AXXESS METRA STEERING WHEEL CONTROL INTERFACE
B. Antenna Adapter
C. Wiring Harness
D. Head Unit
Yes that is all correct. The amp will have to be 2 ohm stable which is fairly common. People run 2 ohm sub woofers all the time. You would need a 4 channel amplifier to run the 4 main speakers or 5 channel to run the 4 speaker and the stock sub woofer also.

Your car is a W209, I think it is almost completely the same or at least in principle.

Update: Upon further reading I have come to understand that in some cars the Fiber Optic cable is connected to the amp and in some cars it is connected to the CD Changer. Anyway to know for sure if my car's fiber optic cable is connected to the amp or just the CD changer?
Yes find the amp in the trunk and look. Mine has NO bose and the CD player/telephone/radio are the only optical connections. There is no amplifier. With bose it is my understanding the optical cable goes to the amplifier but you might need to check, it could be a 8 wire connection instead. Have a search the answer will almost definitely be buried on the forum somewhere.

Wfaizan

Thank You for your help. Marcus's guide gave reference to the male wiring harness. Any reason why?

Now I have to wait for my car. The guy in the shop is taking his time.

I keep forgetting to ask this. Will I need a sleeve when I buy the double dash din kit? I am assuming I will need a sleeve.

Update: Marcus's guide actually does refers to a female. But it didn't work so I guess I'll get the one you posted

Wfaizan

Okay, something funny just happened. As I was looking through amazon I noticed one of the items said 'you recently purchased this item' and the date was yesterday. It so happens that my brother bought some parts for me as a gift and I just happened to use the same amazon account.

Bad news is that couple of the parts he bought might not actually useful for me. But I'll mention them and hopefully you can tell me if it will work.

1. BOSS Audio BV9362BI In-Dash Double-Din (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EWTKAA)
I don't see any reason why this won't work. But he bought for me so I listed it.
2. Scosche MZ2347B 2005-Up Mercedes Benz C-class, CLK/ SLK Double DIN Kit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UF90UQ) now I know it says 2005 but the description says 2004. But other websites says 2005 and up. But will this work in my car?
3. Metra 70-1786 Radio Wiring Harness for Mercedes 94-04/Landrover 99-04 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007WRQG2) not too sure about this part. It does mention that it is like the 70 1784 wiring harness. Which is the one that was mentioned in Marcus's guide. But you said I would need another one. But anyways what do you think?

Should I have him return the last two or what?

mguerrero

are you close to finding an easy way to install an aftermarkey HU for a Bose Audio CLK?

if so, I'd be interested in the exact way to do this! I miss mu aftermarket unit

Wfaizan

I think I am close to understanding and I am ready to make an effort. I'll try to document everything.

jkowtko

FYI if you are going to replace the amp and run a new set of preouts from the dash to the trunk, you might as well just replace the door speakers and wiring as well.

Since you seem to want to go with the simplest approach first, I would suggest to try to use that PAC converter and leave the Bose amp in place, and see how that sounds first.

Wfaizan

Do you know if the pac converter will work if the fiber cable has more than just cd changer connected to it?

jkowtko

Does your amp have the fiber optic (MOST) cable providing the signal? Or is it only copper wire going to the amp?

My car didn't have the stereo upgrade so there was no amp, and the only fiber connected to anything was a straight shot between the head unit and the cd changer. I removed the cd changer so I also disconnected that one cable. FYI there was a lot more fiber running around in the car but I don't think any of it was connected to anything.

Wfaizan

My car has D2B fiber optics that control more than just the cd changer (unfortunately). The way I came to this conclusion is when I dismantled the dash I unplugged the fiber optic cable and I turned the radio on. It powered on but no audio came from the speakers when the fiber optics cable was off. So when I connected the fiber optics cable and then turned on the radio sound came from the speakers. Based on this I came to the conclusion my fiber optics cable is connected to more than just the cd changer. Does this method prove that is the case? I tried to look for the amplifier I couldn't find it. Where exactly is it located?

The wiring harness my brother, we checked today and it didn't fit. Need to buy another one.

So, just to make sure I need to buy a 2ohm compatible amp and I need to run RCA wiring from the head unit to the amp and I need to take the speaker wiring from the original Bose amplifier and connect them to the new amp. Is this correct?

tw2

In theory yes. Although I don't know of anyone who has actually tried it. This would be instead of the PAC option. Have a look at your stock amp. It should be under the liner in the trunk.

Wfaizan

I want to try the PAC method. I can't seem to get enough info on it. Some post explain that it only works in those cars in which the fiber optic is connected to the cd changer. And all it does is, in simple terms, clears up the audio from speakers. And the reason the audio wouldn't be as clear is because the aftermarket radios are a little different. That is why in many post I read you don't need it either. If you don't plan on blasting your music. But with the same condition. Meaning the fiber optic is connected only to the cd changer.

So, I want to go the PAC route but I don't think it will do me any good.

Wfaizan

I have had everything connected for about a week. But I keep having a problem that I can't seem to solve.

After installing it the device turns on sometimes and works and sometimes when I turn my car on the HU doesn't turn on.

I thought maybe the HU is messed up. So I had it replaced with a new one. And I am still having the same problem.

Also, the radio reception is horrible but from what I read I am suppose to take the A5 wire from the original wiring harness and connect it to the 12v (cigarette lighter). Is this correct?

jkowtko

I can't confirm pin A5 since I have the facelift with the VW connector ... but you should be connecting the wire from the radio side -- not the car side -- of the wiring harnesss to the 12v switched cig lighter wire.

As for antenna, my car has a built-in antenna amplifier, so yours probably does too. So that will need to be connected to either 12v switched, or the remote 12v signal out (usually a blue wire) coming from the radio.

Also if you haven't already, I suggest you get a voltmeter and check the voltages across what you believe are your constant 12v and switched 12v wires against your ground wire, to make sure they're doing what you expect.

tw2

You need to confirm you have a 12V constant connected to the head unit power and there is a 12V switched connected to the head unit switched source. Where did you tap into? The cigarette lighter?

I am not sure about the radio, there is a power antenna wire in most cars which connects to the aftermarket head unit to turn the antenna on but it has been a while since I did mine. The head unit provides the signal to the antenna not a 12V source from the car.

Ahmed-Ali

This guide was extremely helpful...I followed it and everything works perfectly. thanks man!

BigN8

I see you have the post facelift dash. I am having some issues getting my aftermarket deck to power up. Is this because I have to with the switched acc to the unit? I am not sure what to do my plug is a big square not like the ones I see here.

jkowtko

I also have the post-facelift dash and the big square plug.

The plug does not carry 12v switched on it -- the stock radios must get that signal from over the CAN bus.

I tapped into the cig lighter harness for both 12v switched AND nighttime illumination signal. Both work great

But if you want to get fancy, there are products out there than hook up to the CAN bus, read the signals, and convert them to starndard 12v line signals that aftermarket radios can understand:

http://www.connects2downloads.co.uk/...es/can-bus.pdf

and three mentioned on this page:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170712

Good luck -- let us know how it turns out!

tw2

Pre-facelift also uses canbus to switch on. There is no 12v switch which is why it is so much easier to tap into something else like the cigarette lighter.