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Do you see how you press that clip to remove the fuse.... You can remove the orange holder with the same concept, if you look closely you will see a similar clip...
That outer clip tab has to be pulled away (it is barbed at the end) in order to release the fuse. Once I removed the fuse I tried moving that tab in both directions and it did not release the holder. It's a hard angle to see at since the open side of the holder is facing forward -- so I'm going to have to try again when I have more time.
Thanks man for that. Just look closely at it and you should be able to read the part # without removing it. It will be on the side and should start with a 00. Let me know when you get a chance.
Originally Posted by jkowtko
That outer clip tab has to be pulled away (it is barbed at the end) in order to release the fuse. Once I removed the fuse I tried moving that tab in both directions and it did not release the holder. It's a hard angle to see at since the open side of the holder is facing forward -- so I'm going to have to try again when I have more time.
That's a much better photo ... looks like you remove the adapter by pressing in on the toggle bar at the base. I thought I tried this but nothing seemed to budge.
350Wagon, do you still need me to try to get a photo of mine, or do you have an orange one in your car (like VVF's photo) that you can inspect?
I did find the part # by using your photo at a junk yard. They charged me $40 so I just took the part # off it and returned it after buying it at the dealer for $5.75. Yes they tried to jerk me by almost 10x the price for a used one.
Thank you for all your help to btw. I will post part # for anyone that may need it.
Originally Posted by jkowtko
That's a much better photo ... looks like you remove the adapter by pressing in on the toggle bar at the base. I thought I tried this but nothing seemed to budge.
350Wagon, do you still need me to try to get a photo of mine, or do you have an orange one in your car (like VVF's photo) that you can inspect?
My local dealership could not find it in their catalogs when I asked last year. VVF posted a link to what seems to be the only site online that has one. I'm surprised these aren't easier to find.
Hey any one run into crazy dash errors grounding straight to the battery ? Just removed ground from battery and grounded to chassis. But out of no where I'm getting srs , SOS came and hasn't come back. No reverse lights or rear fog. P/R/N/D and C/S display is gone. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the sub install or if I fried rear Sam ??? Help please
Originally Posted by W211_350WagoN
Do you see how you press that clip to remove the fuse.... You can remove the orange holder with the same concept, if you look closely you will see a similar clip...
hey i tried to install a double din pioneer radio in my 2006 c230 kompressor but when i connected the wire harness to the car the radio won't turn on.
What wire harness do i use?
hey i tried to install a double din pioneer radio in my 2006 c230 kompressor but when i connected the wire harness to the car the radio won't turn on.
What wire harness do i use?
You probably used the correct wiring harness.
However our cars don't use 12V switched to turn on the stock head unit ... I believe it's a CAN-bus "ignition on" signal that allows the radio to turn on. Therefore the wire that your adapter harness thinks should be 12V switched, is actually a dead wire on the car side. (There might not even be a wire going into that pin).
So ... you will need to tap into another source of 12v switched.
The most common and technically simplest way of getting 12V switched is through the cigarette lighter, which is just below the radio in the ashtray, and has three wires going in. Find the wire that is 12V switched and tap into it for turning on your radio. Incidentally, if your radio has an illumination wire for day/night, you will find that one of the three wires to the cig lighter turns on the glow ring around the lighter at night with a 12v signal ... you can use that as well if you want.
A more elegant and costly solution is to buy one of those CAN-bus interpreter boxes that hooks up to your wiring harness at ground, 12V fixed, CAN-low and CAN-high. This box may generate things like ignition status, reverse gear, and speed pulse, all by using 12v signals on different wires. It's pretty cool how much in these cars is computerized with digital busses.
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