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Weird clanking noise from engine all of the sudden...

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Old May 2, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #26  
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I went and got the repair sheet off of all data! We are gonna tackle it! Let me know when your ready!
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Old May 2, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #27  
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Let 'er rip
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Old May 2, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #28  
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thanks man...here we go!
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Old May 2, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #29  
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hey did you use all those tools that MB would use? like the retainer, chain separating tool, riveting tool, etc? i mean those suckers are like 100-350 a piece!

also wtf is that "Mercedes Case" for? lol
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Old May 2, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #30  
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No, you don't need any of the tools. Some of them may be helpful, but not needed.
Mercedes Case?? Don't know.
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Old May 3, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #31  
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Well my chain came in. Disnt realize they were in MD. Probably wouldn't had needed 2 day shipping but oh well lol
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #32  
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My chain arrived from Autohausaz yesterday as well. Upon examination I can't believe it is merely that which keeps the engine from destruction.. seems so small.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #33  
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ya not much smaller than my motorcycle chain...
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #34  
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One big red flag that ive learned from the forums

that could cost you the engine!
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #35  
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Yes, you should replace yours Harrison by 100,000. Note that my car isn't showing symptoms of a stretched chain even at 135,000 but I'm going to change it soon anyway.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #36  
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well got all my goodies in the mail today, should be doing the install tomorrow...hogger man I'd really appreciate some more detail on the process of what you did and how you did it (especially when it comes to removing the old chain and running the new one) thanks man...pm me
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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Will do. Just got in from work, and gotta help the wife get ready for a yard sale in the morning.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.

Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.

Last edited by Hogger; May 4, 2012 at 11:33 PM.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:16 AM
  #38  
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Good info! Im at 118K now, I will be ordering 1 and doing some preventative maintenance myself.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...=W0133-1786813,

Theyre local too!
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:18 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Hogger
Will do. Just got in from work, and gotta help the wife get ready for a yard sale in the morning.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.

Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.
Whats a gasket maker? and ya man i look forward to hearing bout how you did this...mostly what did you have to pull apart, did you drain any oil, and what you used to separate the old chain, and then get the new one around all the gears and connected back together with the masterlink (especially in ensuring none of the gears/cams got out of sync)...

Good luck with the yard sale! those are always a ball of fun!
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:20 AM
  #40  
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ahh like gasket sealer...and man are there a lot of options...what kind should i be looking for? I see permatex has quite a few options!
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #41  
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i also found a harbor freight tools nearby (thank god) so im gonna go by there in the AM to pick up a chain breaker for $10! oh yeah!
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Old May 5, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #42  
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Ya, the Permatex stuff is good. I used one called Ultra Black. DO NOT use their grey stuff in the aerosol type can called The Right Stuff. It's horrible to use.

You shouldn't have to remove any fluids.
Your doing this a little different than me. I had the engine stripped down to the block. You do want to try not to move the cams too much.

When you're ready to break the chain, tie it off on either side to something with light gauge wire, string, or even small zip ties. That way when you cut/break it, it doesn't fall down into the engine.
Once cut, you can change out the guides if that's what you had planned.
EDIT: Now you can pull the alternator. There is a DIY in the stickies for it. Once out, there is a red plug in the block behind where the alt. was that you need to remove to access the tensioner. You can pop the plug out with a screw driver. You'll probably need a deep socket to get at the tensioner. I can't remember the size. Undo it and carefully remove from the block.
Install new tensioner and re install alternator and V belt.
Attach the end of the new chain to the end of the old one on the left side, with wire, or a zip tie as thou you are making one long chain.
Then use a 27mm socket to crank the engine counter clockwise on the crank pulley. This will feed the new chain around the crank sprocket.
Gotta run, that will get you started.

Last edited by Hogger; May 5, 2012 at 11:37 AM.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #43  
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but how do you attach the new chain together?
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Old May 5, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #44  
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After you have fed the new chain around, there is a master link that will come with the new chain. Bring the two ends together and insert the master link, and the end piece(not sure it's proper name) that slips over the two prongs. I had to carefully enlarge the holes on the flat little end piece to get it to go on. You may be able to snap it on with some pliers. Just go through drill bits until you find the one that is just barely bigger than the hole. You don't want it to be too big. Just barely open it up if you have to.
To insert the master link, you will need to put pressure on the tensioner so the chain is slack. You can also put wrenches on the cam sprockets to help "pull" the chain together, BUT, watch your timing marks, and be sure when the chain is together, that they are all lined up.
I'll post some pics in a little while.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #45  
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ok ya i have the master link...now i just got depressed cuz i saw what its gonna tank taking out my alternator, lol...not hard just time consuming and looks like a lot of areas to not go the way i want them too! lol...well here we go
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Hogger
To insert the master link, you will need to put pressure on the tensioner so the chain is slack.
Hey Hogger, couldn't you put the tensioner after the chain is put together?
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #47  
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hogger if you wouldnt mind shooting me a text, im wondering what did you do with all the wires that are up around the ignition coils etc? did you just unplug them all and cut the zip ties?

727-687-6666
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Old May 5, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #48  
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so it might just be me but this cerainly doesnt look like there is any slack in the chain...texted hogger the sound clip and he said it sounded the same as his did when his failed...but the pic of his chain isn't even close to mine...is my only option going to be to remove the chain completely and lay it side by side with the new one?
Attached Thumbnails Weird clanking noise from engine all of the sudden...-img_0605-1-.jpg   Weird clanking noise from engine all of the sudden...-img_0606-1-.jpg  
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Old May 5, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #49  
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well just cut a piece of string or measure the old one vs new one to see stretch that way you will know but don't make it really hard to put the new chain on.
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Old May 6, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #50  
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ok anyone know what the plug hiding the tensioner looks like? is it this one...this is the only thing really behind the alternator, but ive tried over and over to remove it with a flatblade but as you can tell its just ripping...i also punctured the center of it, am i gonna have to buy a new plug now?
Attached Thumbnails Weird clanking noise from engine all of the sudden...-img_0611-1-.jpg  
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