Weird clanking noise from engine all of the sudden...
#29
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hey did you use all those tools that MB would use? like the retainer, chain separating tool, riveting tool, etc? i mean those suckers are like 100-350 a piece!
also wtf is that "Mercedes Case" for? lol
also wtf is that "Mercedes Case" for? lol
#31
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Well my chain came in. Disnt realize they were in MD. Probably wouldn't had needed 2 day shipping but oh well lol
#32
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My chain arrived from Autohausaz yesterday as well. Upon examination I can't believe it is merely that which keeps the engine from destruction.. seems so small.
#35
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Yes, you should replace yours Harrison by 100,000. Note that my car isn't showing symptoms of a stretched chain even at 135,000 but I'm going to change it soon anyway.
#36
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well got all my goodies in the mail today, should be doing the install tomorrow...hogger man I'd really appreciate some more detail on the process of what you did and how you did it (especially when it comes to removing the old chain and running the new one) thanks man...pm me
#37
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2009 ML350, 2007 GL450, 1963 GMC, BMW 325i
Will do. Just got in from work, and gotta help the wife get ready for a yard sale in the morning.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.
Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.
Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.
Last edited by Hogger; 05-04-2012 at 11:33 PM.
#38
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2005 C230 6spd (MT)
Good info! Im at 118K now, I will be ordering 1 and doing some preventative maintenance myself.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...=W0133-1786813,
Theyre local too!
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...=W0133-1786813,
Theyre local too!
#39
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Will do. Just got in from work, and gotta help the wife get ready for a yard sale in the morning.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.
Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.
I'll post up info in the morning.
If you haven't done so, you can start pulling the valve cover, and spark plugs, and upper timing chain cover.
Don't forget, you will need some gasket maker for putting the upper cover back on.
Good luck with the yard sale! those are always a ball of fun!
#40
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ahh like gasket sealer...and man are there a lot of options...what kind should i be looking for? I see permatex has quite a few options!
#41
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i also found a harbor freight tools nearby (thank god) so im gonna go by there in the AM to pick up a chain breaker for $10! oh yeah!
#42
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2009 ML350, 2007 GL450, 1963 GMC, BMW 325i
Ya, the Permatex stuff is good. I used one called Ultra Black. DO NOT use their grey stuff in the aerosol type can called The Right Stuff. It's horrible to use.
You shouldn't have to remove any fluids.
Your doing this a little different than me. I had the engine stripped down to the block. You do want to try not to move the cams too much.
When you're ready to break the chain, tie it off on either side to something with light gauge wire, string, or even small zip ties. That way when you cut/break it, it doesn't fall down into the engine.
Once cut, you can change out the guides if that's what you had planned.
EDIT: Now you can pull the alternator. There is a DIY in the stickies for it. Once out, there is a red plug in the block behind where the alt. was that you need to remove to access the tensioner. You can pop the plug out with a screw driver. You'll probably need a deep socket to get at the tensioner. I can't remember the size. Undo it and carefully remove from the block.
Install new tensioner and re install alternator and V belt.
Attach the end of the new chain to the end of the old one on the left side, with wire, or a zip tie as thou you are making one long chain.
Then use a 27mm socket to crank the engine counter clockwise on the crank pulley. This will feed the new chain around the crank sprocket.
Gotta run, that will get you started.
You shouldn't have to remove any fluids.
Your doing this a little different than me. I had the engine stripped down to the block. You do want to try not to move the cams too much.
When you're ready to break the chain, tie it off on either side to something with light gauge wire, string, or even small zip ties. That way when you cut/break it, it doesn't fall down into the engine.
Once cut, you can change out the guides if that's what you had planned.
EDIT: Now you can pull the alternator. There is a DIY in the stickies for it. Once out, there is a red plug in the block behind where the alt. was that you need to remove to access the tensioner. You can pop the plug out with a screw driver. You'll probably need a deep socket to get at the tensioner. I can't remember the size. Undo it and carefully remove from the block.
Install new tensioner and re install alternator and V belt.
Attach the end of the new chain to the end of the old one on the left side, with wire, or a zip tie as thou you are making one long chain.
Then use a 27mm socket to crank the engine counter clockwise on the crank pulley. This will feed the new chain around the crank sprocket.
Gotta run, that will get you started.
Last edited by Hogger; 05-05-2012 at 11:37 AM.
#44
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2009 ML350, 2007 GL450, 1963 GMC, BMW 325i
After you have fed the new chain around, there is a master link that will come with the new chain. Bring the two ends together and insert the master link, and the end piece(not sure it's proper name) that slips over the two prongs. I had to carefully enlarge the holes on the flat little end piece to get it to go on. You may be able to snap it on with some pliers. Just go through drill bits until you find the one that is just barely bigger than the hole. You don't want it to be too big. Just barely open it up if you have to.
To insert the master link, you will need to put pressure on the tensioner so the chain is slack. You can also put wrenches on the cam sprockets to help "pull" the chain together, BUT, watch your timing marks, and be sure when the chain is together, that they are all lined up.
I'll post some pics in a little while.
To insert the master link, you will need to put pressure on the tensioner so the chain is slack. You can also put wrenches on the cam sprockets to help "pull" the chain together, BUT, watch your timing marks, and be sure when the chain is together, that they are all lined up.
I'll post some pics in a little while.
#45
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ok ya i have the master link...now i just got depressed cuz i saw what its gonna tank taking out my alternator, lol...not hard just time consuming and looks like a lot of areas to not go the way i want them too! lol...well here we go
#46
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#47
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hogger if you wouldnt mind shooting me a text, im wondering what did you do with all the wires that are up around the ignition coils etc? did you just unplug them all and cut the zip ties?
727-687-6666
727-687-6666
#48
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Thread Starter
so it might just be me but this cerainly doesnt look like there is any slack in the chain...texted hogger the sound clip and he said it sounded the same as his did when his failed...but the pic of his chain isn't even close to mine...is my only option going to be to remove the chain completely and lay it side by side with the new one?
#49
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well just cut a piece of string or measure the old one vs new one to see stretch that way you will know but don't make it really hard to put the new chain on.
#50
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ok anyone know what the plug hiding the tensioner looks like? is it this one...this is the only thing really behind the alternator, but ive tried over and over to remove it with a flatblade but as you can tell its just ripping...i also punctured the center of it, am i gonna have to buy a new plug now?