2005 C230 K - 120k miles issues
09-30-2013, 03:44 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2005 C230 K - 120k miles issues
OK, two issues have arisen:
1. A/C was perfectly fine until yesterday when it quit blowing cold air. The day before, ice cold air, then Sunday, nothing but warm air.
2. Erratic idle, periodic engine surges and Check Engine light on; Had it checked and code P0102 came up. MAF was replaced, however, erratic idle lessened but never quit and has come back worse than ever.
Thoughts on both of these issues? Thank you.
1. A/C was perfectly fine until yesterday when it quit blowing cold air. The day before, ice cold air, then Sunday, nothing but warm air.
2. Erratic idle, periodic engine surges and Check Engine light on; Had it checked and code P0102 came up. MAF was replaced, however, erratic idle lessened but never quit and has come back worse than ever.
Thoughts on both of these issues? Thank you.
09-30-2013, 04:15 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Alternator overrun bearing went out and killed the AC compressor pulley?
Were you experiencing weird squealing with the AC on and shifting into R or D while stopped (while AC was still ok) ?
You can probably check if there is power to the AC compressor from the SAM.
If there is, then definitely the pulley is cooked.
Don't know about #2.
Good luck!
Were you experiencing weird squealing with the AC on and shifting into R or D while stopped (while AC was still ok) ?
You can probably check if there is power to the AC compressor from the SAM.
If there is, then definitely the pulley is cooked.
Don't know about #2.
Good luck!
09-30-2013, 04:27 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am not sure.
Might get away with disconnecting the wires at the compressor and measuring the voltage there.
Or try to bypass the SAM by wiring the compressor directly to the battery.
Someone has done this on the forum recently. But it might be risky in the case all your freon had leaked overnight.
Might get away with disconnecting the wires at the compressor and measuring the voltage there.
Or try to bypass the SAM by wiring the compressor directly to the battery.
Someone has done this on the forum recently. But it might be risky in the case all your freon had leaked overnight.
10-01-2013, 11:58 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Any other input?
The potential vacuum leak is really ticking me off. I did the $12 fix quite sometime ago, and replaced the MAF, so is there another vacuum line that develops leaks or something that would cause the erratic idle and/or surging?
As always, I appreciate any help, thanks.
The potential vacuum leak is really ticking me off. I did the $12 fix quite sometime ago, and replaced the MAF, so is there another vacuum line that develops leaks or something that would cause the erratic idle and/or surging?
As always, I appreciate any help, thanks.
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10-08-2013, 03:10 AM
#8
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
I had problems with my AC though it blew cold to the passengers and warm to the driver. The pressure of the 134A was fine as well as the stepper motors. The fix included a new receiver drier and expansion valve. Now it is back to normal again
10-24-2013, 02:14 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Ugh, A/C issue was a fried compressor pulley, but the dealer said they don't sell the pulley separate from the compressor so to change it out and the drier and expansion valve is about $1400. ARGH.
10-24-2013, 03:09 PM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Define "fried"...
Have you checked the alternator pulley?
Several people on the forum had their AC compressor replaced only to see it fail again after a short time (because of bad alternator pulley).
Have you checked the alternator pulley?
Several people on the forum had their AC compressor replaced only to see it fail again after a short time (because of bad alternator pulley).
10-24-2013, 04:11 PM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
a. I may well have a bad alternator pulley, based on some strange dashboard electrical shenanigans I've encountered. So, I guess I should get that fixed as well?
b. I'd rather not have to replace the A/C compressor again, obviously.
b. I'd rather not have to replace the A/C compressor again, obviously.
10-24-2013, 04:43 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Check it.
This video (from 4:00) kind of gives the idea as to what it's all about:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...suYbPxr4#t=238
You don't need to shove anything inside the alt, just spin it and then try to stop the pulley. You can figure the direction from the video I guess, or try both directions. If the alt keeps spinning when the pulley is stopped, then it's fine.
If the pulley acts like it's solidly connected with the alt in both directions, then it's done.
This video (from 4:00) kind of gives the idea as to what it's all about:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...suYbPxr4#t=238
You don't need to shove anything inside the alt, just spin it and then try to stop the pulley. You can figure the direction from the video I guess, or try both directions. If the alt keeps spinning when the pulley is stopped, then it's fine.
If the pulley acts like it's solidly connected with the alt in both directions, then it's done.
10-24-2013, 05:25 PM
#16
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
Expansion Valve (Egelhof) $29 vs $300 at MB Toronto
Receiver Drier (Hella Behr) $38 vs $118 at MB Toronto
I had the items installed by a MB mechanic that moonlights on the weekends that has access to the proper AC machine to collect, evacuate and pressurize the 134a. Labour for me was $200 including installing a steering column boot through the firewall, which I thought was more than reasonable
10-24-2013, 05:43 PM
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Actually any decent AC shop can recharge your system, they all have those integrated machines now, when they connect it, and it automatically vacuums, tests for leaks, fills oil and charges the specified amount of 134a. You just need to find a shop that will not rip you off because you drive an MB (maybe get a quote without letting them know what car you drive 
)
)
10-24-2013, 07:18 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses.
I just reviewed the dealer docs from my appointment.
From what I have read on here, and I may be wrong, but I didn't think the A/C compressor had a clutch?
On the dealer document it stated that the A/C compressor clutch fell apart. Is that right, or did they just state the wrong thing?
I thought it was some kind of plate instead of a clutch that gave way, no?
I just reviewed the dealer docs from my appointment.
From what I have read on here, and I may be wrong, but I didn't think the A/C compressor had a clutch?
On the dealer document it stated that the A/C compressor clutch fell apart. Is that right, or did they just state the wrong thing?
I thought it was some kind of plate instead of a clutch that gave way, no?
Last edited by markinnaples; 10-24-2013 at 07:29 PM.
10-29-2013, 09:29 AM
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Can someone explain to me how the alternator pulley causes the A/C compressor pulley to go bad? Not quite sure I understand how that works.
10-30-2013, 09:20 PM
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
markinnaples
In a nutshell, bad alternator pulley allows for great belt vibrations, which in turn breaks the AC pulley.
You really should search the forum, guys...
One more video
In a nutshell, bad alternator pulley allows for great belt vibrations, which in turn breaks the AC pulley.
One more video
Last edited by VVF; 10-30-2013 at 09:32 PM.
10-30-2013, 10:15 PM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks, VVF! I had my alternator pulley die on me and take my A/C compressor so I know the potential but I had never heard of an alternator pulley like that and never knew why they used such a thing. It seemed that the A/C compressor was a sacrificial component!
Those videos answer a lot of my questions - finally!
Those videos answer a lot of my questions - finally!
10-31-2013, 09:27 AM
#24
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Thread Starter
AWESOME, VVF, thanks for posting those up. And to be honest, I have searched the forums numerous times, just never found what I was needing, so I appreciate you helping out since some of the posts may not be easily found.
Pepes, My dealer told me my replacement MAF is defective.
Pepes, My dealer told me my replacement MAF is defective.
10-31-2013, 10:06 AM
#25
Super Moderator
If after sorting out troublesome accessories & MAF you still have poor idle get someone to check out all vacuum pipes for leaks, The EGR circuit & pipework & clean the throttle body & actuator. Make sure that the TB actuator is not oscillating. If it is you need a new TB.
Good luck!
