KevinH2000

Sorry to dredge up an old thread. I’ve been offered a set of folding seats from a 2005 C230 for $100. The seats are still in the car and the seller is including any hardware that I need. The upholstery is dusty, but I don’t see any rips or tears. I expect the seats to clean up nicely.

If I buy the seats, my plan would be to remove my rear seat and then swap the folding seats directly into the car. The seller offered to help with tasks like drilling and tapping the holes for bolts.

I currently borrow my wife’s Highlander when I need extra cargo space, so the folding seats would be a convenient feature, but not a necessity. Should I accept the offer?

Alamo Lady

The rear folding seats were a "must have" for me when I got my new C320 in 2004 (still have it). I had sold my small station wagon the year earlier, opting to keep our 1999 300TD (still have it!). I missed that ability to transport longer items, and have used the fold-down feature numerous times, with no other way to get those items home.

There isn't a lot of height available in the trunk-to-back seat space, so be aware of that.

For me personally I'd pay the $100 for the convenience, if you can successfully do the swap yourself with a free helper. You never know when you might want to bring something home and you don't have the Highlander!

Good luck!

BF_JC230

Yes! Of course!!!

Make sure you get the thresholds, the inner plastic sills, they ARE unique to folding/pass through seats!

You don’t “need” OEM semi ridged vacuum hose, I used NAPA/CarQuest rubber line.

You should only have to tap the two side holes, as the holes should be there OEM.

Post or PM me any questions on this easy afternoon mod!

KevinH2000

Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn’t picked that up reading your other posts.

Right now I am leaning towards accepting the offer and going ahead with the project. I think I will find this worthy of $100 and a few hours of time.

BF_JC230

FYI.
middle seat belt bracket 30Nm
outer belt ends (belt end fitting screw) 30Nm
Bolt on rear seat backrest lock 10Nm
screw for outer bearing bolt on wheelhouse 23Nm
nut for inner bearing bracket on vehicle floor 40Nm
rear seat cushion hinge nut to flor of vehicle 20Nm
rear seat cushion support strap belt nut to floor 20Nm

If you need anything...feel free to reach out.

KevinH2000

Thanks for the information. My plan is to remove my seat tomorrow night and meet the seller on Saturday and swap in the folding seats and hardware. The weather forecast is calling for a heat index over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I hope the swap takes less than two hours. I printed the photos from one of your earlier posts and I expect them to be helpful.

BF_JC230

Images.

BF_JC230

Images 2.

BF_JC230

Please post pictures OEM before your work.

I’m curious how the OEM all black, thin, “insulation” unique to folding/pass thru seats fit under the unique sills. As you can see, my outer edges near the sills are not under the sills, as I suspect they’re supposed to be. I recall every time I tried to get them under the black carpet/insulation/dressing would buckle past what I wanted...

Stay hydrated...stay safe.
Sounds like you need to swap in your seats and I’d bring the folding seats home to bolt up later in less than 100 degree heat.

I’d suggest printing my parts list and bringing photos, if it seems unique to folding seats...it is.

KevinH2000

Here are some photos I took before removing the seats from the donor car. I hope this shows what you need. The removal went well with the noted exception of the heat. The seller tapped the holes in the side of the car for me and was overall great to work with. I need to clean the parts and let them dry before installing them in my car. I am not planning to use the indicators that pop up when the seats aren't latched. I have them in case I ever need to remove the rear shelf.

BF_JC230

I haven’t installed the indicators yet either.
I have a spare rear deck with them, and the parts new too...just not pulling all of that out to “know” I locked them to satisfy some MB attorney.

pre-facelift there were no indicators, labels on the handles - as I provided a part number.

I just cut the OEM fixed black decking to install the latch...and I “live with” seeing some steel when the seats are down! Ha!

Looks like I installed that black liner under the seat as well as Sindelfingen! Ha!

KevinH2000

I thoroughly cleaned all the parts. As you can tell from the photos the car that I bought the seats from was a little dirty. I think someone spilled something such as soda on the seat and it discolored the carpet under the seat bottoms along with parts of the seats. My aggressive cleaning technique was effective, but it took a while for all of the parts to dry. I didn’t want to encourage mold or mildew by installing wet upholstery , so I took a couple of hours off.

I was able to install the seat backs, attach the vacuum hose for the headrest releases (and confirmed that it works) and install one of the seat back releases. (The Bowden cable on the other was damaged during removal. I repaired it with epoxy and I am letting it dry overnight.)

KevinH2000

I need some help with a couple of challenges:

1. As I mentioned in a previous post, the seller helped me remove parts and inadvertently damaged one of the Bowden cables in the right (passenger side) seat release mechanism. I glued it together last night, but the epoxy wasn't strong enough. I may visit the dealer and see whether they can order a replacement cable. Do you have any suggestions.





2. On this part of the seat trim:



Where and how do these clips attach?

BF_JC230

eBay.
they pop up! Ha!

otherwise dealer - that’s what I did...seller would not/did not sell me many parts...

that at is why I provided parts list above.

so, right side LOCKING MECHANISM is PN 203 920 0472, left is 203 920 03 72. About $50.

also looks like they broke the clips housings/barrels on the INTERMEDIATE PAD. WIS did not jive well here with what I experienced...now, thinking back a few years...here goes.

I recall getting low, as low as I could in the car to see. Then, sorta reverse engineering it, and I recall that black “barrel” pivoting...so...WIS says to remove screws for intermediate pad, remove pad. I recall little self locking fingers or tabs in the barrel, and only free standing studs in the chassis. Odd.

so, I recall loading the barrels onto the studs and swinging/rotating it into position. Hope that helps. It pretty much was a press/lock fit and I don’t recall any removable hardware.

check my posts above #129 and #136.

hope this helps, couldn’t snag a shot as it’s all covered by black carpet/pressed pad.

(i retract my statement of my black liner being over the plastic by the door sills...turns out the black dressing is under the carpet! )

BF_JC230

https://www.ebay.com/itm/W203-Merced...temCondition=4

KevinH2000

Thanks - I had that on my watch list. One of the Bowden cable ends was broken, but the other looks OK. The Mercedes dealer might surprise me, but I doubt they sell only the cable for a 15-year old car. I think it is safe to assume that any solution form the dealer would be more expensive than $18. I hit the "Buy it Now" button. should have in about 3 days.

KevinH2000

Thanks for the suggestions on the foam trim that fits between the seat back and the seat bottom. If anyone else runs into the problem, here's a picture of the solution:



The black plastic clips go around a stud. Hook those first and then push the trim under the seat back and the LATCH attachment points. There is also a piece of wire in the middle of the trim that hooks into the metal that is under the seat bottom.

I won't be able to finish the project until I receive my replacement part. For now, I am leaving the side trim off since I will need to get up under the rear deck to attach the release mechanism.

Here are some pictures of the current state of the project:




All the parts cleaned up nicely, but they are still damp after the cleaning. I'm using a fan to keep the air moving and promote drying.

I have one more issue to figure out. This clip:



Was on the headrest vacuum line. I am trying to determine where it fits. I am using several wire ties to hold the vacuum line out of the way of moving parts, but I would like to use the OEM clip if I can.

Thanks for the help and support.

BF_JC230

Oh right, the middle latch part on the intermediate pad...maybe that’s why I remember crouching so low...you have to push that back, up over and lock it in if I recall correctly...

(Image reattached)



glad you got it and the black barrel parts were not compromised - or compromised to a point they wouldn’t work. Glad it’s in and you got it!

that clip.
mmmm. Again I used rubber hose and routed it, as you, with as much mechanical wherewithal to know not to crush, pinch or cut it...

so. I have this image, the only image showing that type of clip, [660] But; I’m sure you used the other clip(s) [480] for the release cable...I scored a vac line years after I installed - bought it just because. I’ll see later if that clip is on that line and helps tell you were it might go...

BF_JC230

My clips under the rear deck and the OEM hose I have with split barbed clip...FWIW.

BF_JC230

One last thought...
comparing your intermediate pad black “barrel/post” clip retainers to what i remember of mine ... I see they are in fact a c clip design with inserts...yours are not broken.

But,

you seem to to be missing the inserts.

they're either on the studs in that red car...or gone.
if the pad isn’t wiggling around you might be good to go. Otherwise you may want to source some tube stock/etc. to insert between the stud and black c clip...before you button it all up and get that black under-seat dressing in under the sills and such!

(I don’t drive my w203 too much, so i always keep a small bucket of damp rid on the back propeller shaft hump. Always amazed how much water I get out of that little bucket...)

KevinH2000

I need to stop at the seller’s house tomorrow. (I neglected to pull one of the side bolsters in my car on Saturday.). I will see if I can find those parts. I will also try to remove the Bowden cable guides. I started to remove them Saturday but I got distracted when the seller began tapping the holes for the pivot brackets.

BF_JC230

Me again....
OEM you’ll have two of these rubber pads.
There is this TSB stating if there is too much play in rear backrest catch (lock) to add two more if the assembly is causing noise...FYI.

BF_JC230

Don’t forget to add your D rings to finish this modification as OEM....

KevinH2000

I have 4 of the rubber pads - two from my car and 2 from the donor. I already had the cargo tie downs.

The seller wasn’t available tonight, and I was unable to pick up the remaining parts from the donor vehicle. The forecast is calling for up to two inches of rain tomorrow so I may need to delay my return visit until Wednesday. That is the scheduled day for the delivery of my replacement Bowden cable.

By the way, I reviewed this thread and saw that there was a three-year gap between the time you started thinking about this and the day you finally found all your parts and determined how to install them. I admire your persistence and you made my job easier. I had a challenge puzzling out my C63 AMG seat installation (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-2009-c63.html) but my 8 month journey looks like a sprint when compared to your marathon.

Although the C230 rear seats look similar to my C63 front seats, I am beginning to wonder whether a set of C63 rear seats will fit.

BF_JC230

If you can pull off a C63 set that would be amazing and so well compliment your front seats. Which is a great mod and a very well documented thread.

I’m glad this thread is helping you.
Yeah. Sometime projects are marathons - for various reasons - like my current one...in progress...

Anyway, another helpful thread starter and contributor added this years ago too...

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-retrofit.html

Might be a great time to throw it in since you have the seat out and the side bolster out especially...

My interpretation of the MB wire diagram for TPMS didn’t even require dropping the driver dash panel - the CAN connection is in the driver threshold...