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DIY Camshaft Solenoid (Magnets) Repair NOT REPLACE

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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #1  
scottonfire's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA. USA
2013 c250
DIY Camshaft Solenoid (Magnets) Repair NOT REPLACE

Okay, so I have 3 oil leaks. The first one I HAD was a vacuum pump leak. The suggestion was INSTEAD of replacing the vacuum pump, simply replace the seals. I did that and it worked. NOW, based on that, I did the same thing with the Camshaft Magnets (since it was already replaced under an open campaign two years ago and MB USA won't cover it again [THEY SHOULD]), BUT it's still leaking. Here's the difference (I think). The O ring for the Cam magnets are too thin. They updated the stop plugs for the cam mags, but the O ring is the same puny POS. So I went to a generic parts store, gave them the O ring and said, "give me one fatter!" And they did for 2 bucks!

So I'm gonna reinstall, and let everyone know if you can save yourself the $100 bucks for the parts and what tools to use (You need 4 tools).
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #2  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Please report back on whether you manage to stop oil leaking at the connector on the magnets with your approach. For a few cents it's worth a try.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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2005 C230K(sold), Mk7 Jetta
Cool stuff! I will keep that in mind regarding the Vacuum Pump. And please do report back on the solenoids
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 02:27 AM
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Okay, so I've been chasing this rabbit for a while now. Results: First, the fat seals did nothing to prevent further leaking so I got new cam magnets. Bummer! Now, here's where I realized the deck is stacked. I installed the new cam mags. Checked them today. Okay, they didn't leak as bad as the old ones, but they STILL LEAK! I think the trick is putting a sealant on these ****ers. I don't know which type of sealant though so if someone can point me in the right direction here, I'd appreciate it. My guess right now is, you don't need to replace the cam mag's, you need to replace the seals and seal em!
Thx,
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 03:41 AM
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bk62's Avatar
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From: Brunei
1993 sl600; 1990 BMW750il, 1977 Mercedes Benz 250, 2004 Mitsubishi Triton 4WD turbo
Try RTV gasket maker - that should work to provide good seal..

Originally Posted by scottonfire
Okay, so I've been chasing this rabbit for a while now. Results: First, the fat seals did nothing to prevent further leaking so I got new cam magnets. Bummer! Now, here's where I realized the deck is stacked. I installed the new cam mags. Checked them today. Okay, they didn't leak as bad as the old ones, but they STILL LEAK! I think the trick is putting a sealant on these ****ers. I don't know which type of sealant though so if someone can point me in the right direction here, I'd appreciate it. My guess right now is, you don't need to replace the cam mag's, you need to replace the seals and seal em!
Thx,

Try RTV gasket maker - that should work to provide good seal..
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #6  
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From: Beaverton, OR
2002 C32
What is going on with your car that is causing so much crank case pressure to blow all the oil out of the seals? have you had the crank case breather on the back of the head replaced or cleaned out?
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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2013 c250
Originally Posted by durableswedish
What is going on with your car that is causing so much crank case pressure to blow all the oil out of the seals? have you had the crank case breather on the back of the head replaced or cleaned out?
It runs hot! But to my knowledge, valve cover breather gaskets are NOT on the C230.

Since the leak was isolated to the driver side (and really a seap, not a leak), so I tightened the bottom bolt a pinch. It's been two days, ~60 miles driven, and no more oil.
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