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Hi, could anyone advise how the conversion is done from wheel studs to wheel nuts. I am unable to source the correct wheelstuds for my requirements and thus have to resort to installing studs. I have read through various threads but cannot really understand how the studs are secured. Any help will be appreciated.
To do a stud conversion you just need the correct pitch thread that goes on our hub which is 12x1.5 thread pitch then you just choose how long you want your studs to be. To install the studs apply blue thread lock to the threads getting secured down to the hub which is the short end. Torque it down to 20-25 lbs/ft and let it sit for a few hours or over night and you're done. Pretty straight forward
If you're putting new wheels on your car and want the correct length lug bolts all you do is use your stock lug bolt and place it in your stock wheel and measure how much it is sticking out the back side. From there use the same lug bolt and place it in the new wheel and add our subtract how much you'll need to get it to stick out the same amount as it did in the stock wheel. The stock lug bolt is 39.9mm long at the shaft. That's important to remember, it's not overall length. So say you need an extra 5mm to get it match how much it sticks in the stock wheel then you'll need 45mm shaft length lug bolts.
Screw that, get the studs. You'll be very happy you did.
The one thing you'll have to remember is that they do get a little loose sometimes (put blue loctite on and tighten back down, good to go), and you'll have to replace them after several years.
I'm very happy with my set from Rogue Engineering, if you're looking for an online source.
RacingBrake offers conversion wheel stud kits for many MB models
Our kits come with ball seat nuts to be compatible with most MB stock rims, Cone seat option is available for users with aftermarket wheels that require a cone seat.
Both M12x1.5 and M14x1.5 Wheel studs are available.
2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
can anyone tell me why German cars prefer bolts than studs?
I only see that as a negative, can't hang a wheel when changing, especially at night with wide rear staggered wheels; Trying to find the hole without the locater is a pain; One of my bolts snapped (RAD lock) and the only way out was a new hub, bearing and 2+ hours of labour, would have been way cheaper with a replaceable stud as most cars have; Bolts are more expensive to replace than nuts
I too would like to hear a valid reason for the use of bolts instead of studs. I also have had to replace a front hub due to broken bolts and at over $700 it was an expensive lesson. I absolutely could not get the broken part out of the hub. I am hesitant to replace them with studs though since they would just be threaded in from the front and have the potential to get loose and the possibility of having to replace them after a couple years. I wish they had studs pressed in from the rear like almost every other car in the world. After five years I would change little else on the car, but the wheel bolts seem out of place with the excellent engineering on the rest of the car.
2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
Originally Posted by pa-hawk
I too would like to hear a valid reason for the use of bolts instead of studs. I also have had to replace a front hub due to broken bolts and at over $700 it was an expensive lesson. I absolutely could not get the broken part out of the hub. I am hesitant to replace them with studs though since they would just be threaded in from the front and have the potential to get loose and the possibility of having to replace them after a couple years. I wish they had studs pressed in from the rear like almost every other car in the world. After five years I would change little else on the car, but the wheel bolts seem out of place with the excellent engineering on the rest of the car.
what I found is that over time the threads rust and also the ends of the bolts that protrude at the back of the hub get rusty which makes it very tight when loosening. What I did after the fiasco on the front hub was to re-tap each hole to clean out the buildup of rust in the threads. At times it was so tight I was afraid that my tap would snap (I used cutting oil as well). With patience and going slowly ie quarter turn and back off slightly then another quarter turn etc I finally got the threads all cleaned. I was not cutting threads but rather cutting out the rust in the valleys of the existing threads
I know it is wrong but I put a very small dab of anti-seize on the bolts once a year on winter wheel changeover time. So far 3 years later none of the problems and bolts come off easily, smoothly and quietly. Don't want to risk another front hub but yet worse would be a rear hub as that is more difficult and expensive to replace should a bolt snap. The very small dab of A-S is enough to prevent it rusting up again. Again not a problem if you live in an area without snow and salt on the roads
My local indy also suggested anti-seize on the threads. He claimed you would get a more accurate torque reading. He also suggested 100 lbs. torque instead of the recommended 80. The service manager at the dealer who replaced the front hub said no to the anti-seize and said they stay with the 80 lb. torque also. But, when I rotated my tires soon after I had my car back, the wheel bolts were way over 80 lbs. torque, more on the order of 100 lbs. They were all that tight, and when I had rotated them before, I had torqued them to 85 lbs. So, my opinion is that they say one thing and do another. I had already bought a tap to clean up the threads but did not use the anti-seize so far. I also stayed with the 85 lbs. torque and do re-check it occasionally. Also, the next time I replace the front brake pads I am going with the Akebono ceramic pads. I am aware of the reduced brake feel but I am tired of the filthy dust. My wife's car has ceramics and they are pretty good and very clean. My question is the rotors. I will stick to stock type rotors but am not sure if there are any brands that are known to be as good as the original without the dealer price and any to stay away from. Thanks for any help sorting this out.
I have seen applications that list dry and lubed torque values but very few. The lubed torque value should be lower since the dry torque has to also overcome more of the friction. That being said, there is no reason not to boost the torque to 100 or leave it at 80. I'm not sure it makes any difference. Normally, I use anti seize on aluminum threads or stainless steel on stainless steel to reduce galling. The only time I ever used anti seize on a lug was on my Probe (I noticed some corrosion on the studs when one of them broke off). In that case, I used the torque that was called for.
I have Akebonos on both my C230s. I use the standard disc - I think I got them from rmeuropean. I noticed a slight difference if feel but I thought their bite was as good as the stock pads - just my opinion. I have almost 40K miles on them and there is no perceptible wear on the rotors and the last time I checked the pads, there was still PLENTY of meat on them! They don't appear to be wearing at all!
01-30-2014, 07:33 AM
