Steering Rack Bushings - DIY w/ pics
10-08-2017, 12:37 PM
#51
Super Member
Thread Starter
HAHAHA! yes, i only replaced the bottom two., so the two other bushings are on the top retainer bracket? i actually didn't even remove the top bracket i just left them on, i figured it'll be easier to complete if i just left the top bracket on
Nonetheless, the popping/clicking noise whenever turning wheels L & R is gone. i may have to revisit this and order two other bushings just to be on the safe side.
Now i understand why you had to use that punch tool... i was wondering because when i was doing this, i didn't have to use the punch lol crap, now ill have to because then ill have to remove the bottom new bushing i just put on just to get to the top bushings
Nonetheless, the popping/clicking noise whenever turning wheels L & R is gone. i may have to revisit this and order two other bushings just to be on the safe side.
Now i understand why you had to use that punch tool... i was wondering because when i was doing this, i didn't have to use the punch lol crap, now ill have to because then ill have to remove the bottom new bushing i just put on just to get to the top bushings
Fyi I am surprised you could "leave the top bracket on" ... once your remove those four bolts there is nothing holding that top bracket -- it's just resting on top of the rack mounting tabs.
I would definitely suggest replacing the top ones too ... might as well get your rack nice and tight now while you are in DIY mode ...
03-27-2019, 09:45 AM
#52
Member
I did this last night. I think its a little more difficult on a C240 with the BIG v6 engine because I didn't have clearance to remove the bushings after removing all the bolts holding the rack to the subframe. There just wasn't enough clearance between the bottom of the engine and the steering rack. What I did was put a second jack along with a small piece of 2x4 under the engine and lift it slightly to where I had enough clearance (barely) to pull the bushings out. I loosened the subframe bolts also but am not sure if that was really needed.
03-27-2019, 12:49 PM
#53
Super Member
Thread Starter
I did this last night. I think its a little more difficult on a C240 with the BIG v6 engine because I didn't have clearance to remove the bushings after removing all the bolts holding the rack to the subframe. There just wasn't enough clearance between the bottom of the engine and the steering rack. What I did was put a second jack along with a small piece of 2x4 under the engine and lift it slightly to where I had enough clearance (barely) to pull the bushings out. I loosened the subframe bolts also but am not sure if that was really needed.
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slagdemon (03-27-2019)
03-27-2019, 01:33 PM
#54
Member
I think its a little better. Less wander when driving for sure. I still had some nasty rattles going over bumps when I took a test drive, so I pulled it back in the garage and replaced the worn sway bar bushings and now the rattles are gone. I think it was a combination of things. I'm taking the car in to get the tires balanced tonight after work and then I'll be able to really see how it is. /cross fingers.
03-27-2019, 01:42 PM
#55
Super Member
Thread Starter
I think its a little better. Less wander when driving for sure. I still had some nasty rattles going over bumps when I took a test drive, so I pulled it back in the garage and replaced the worn sway bar bushings and now the rattles are gone. I think it was a combination of things. I'm taking the car in to get the tires balanced tonight after work and then I'll be able to really see how it is. /cross fingers.
As far as I can tell the bushings will affect the wandering and a bit of extra steering wheel rotation required when you are driving on a crowned road ... I did not notice the bushings were related to any steering noises unless the rubber was completely gone from them.The rubber on my car's front suspension seemed to last only 7-8 years, then I had to essentially replace everything. I still have a small clunk in the rack, haven't taken the time to figure out if it's the inner tie rod ball joint or slack in the rack itself ...
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slagdemon (03-27-2019)
03-28-2019, 09:03 AM
#56
Member
After driving it after I had the wheels balanced, I can definitely tell a huge difference. No more wandering, it tracks straight and true.
08-12-2019, 08:01 PM
#57
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2008 mercedes E350 4Matic
Bottom of my car doesn’t look the same
I saw the post and went ahead and changed my bushing on the rack. The bottom of my 4Matic wasn’t the same as posted. There weren’t any brackets on top or bottom. It bolted to the car with a nut and bolt. And there was hardly any room to put a wrench on the nut, on top. It kept spinning. Finally got it in and I didn’t have enough bolt to catch the nut. Frustrating. I finally caught one side and it seems that it is barely on. Did torque it to spec though. The after market bushing are probably not a good fit. No name on them, but the matched perfectly and went in nicely. But I think the metal sleeve might have been a touch too long. Going to redo it this weekend with genuine Mercedes parts.
08-15-2019, 02:13 PM
#59
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2008 mercedes E350 4Matic
Not 4Matic bushings!!!
I went to a dealership and wanted to order the bushings. $106 a piece. Sticker shock. I bit the bullet and bought it. When I got the receipt, I saw the part number. Looked it up online and found another Mercedes dealership selling it for $65. Got my money back and bought it online. The service guy said someone must have removed that upper mount plate at some time and replaced it with a nut and bolt. The nut isn’t on Mercedes diagram. I bought the 2 bolts and the plate. Coming from Germany though. 2-3 weeks. I will let you know how it turns out.
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Last edited by Gajendra Chand; 08-15-2019 at 02:16 PM.
08-15-2019, 05:52 PM
#60
Super Member
Thread Starter
I went to a dealership and wanted to order the bushings. $106 a piece. Sticker shock. I bit the bullet and bought it. When I got the receipt, I saw the part number. Looked it up online and found another Mercedes dealership selling it for $65. Got my money back and bought it online. The service guy said someone must have removed that upper mount plate at some time and replaced it with a nut and bolt. The nut isn’t on Mercedes diagram. I bought the 2 bolts and the plate. Coming from Germany though. 2-3 weeks. I will let you know how it turns out.
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
For reference I pulled up my car again in parts.com ... again two part numbers, one is $60 per, the other $15.
My guess is that they changed suppliers and are simply leaving the old expensive part around at that price for their service dept to use when they scalp their customers. I hope you didn't just waste a ton of money.
-- John
