Steering Rack Bushings - DIY w/ pics
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
HAHAHA! yes, i only replaced the bottom two., so the two other bushings are on the top retainer bracket? i actually didn't even remove the top bracket i just left them on, i figured it'll be easier to complete if i just left the top bracket on
Nonetheless, the popping/clicking noise whenever turning wheels L & R is gone. i may have to revisit this and order two other bushings just to be on the safe side.
Now i understand why you had to use that punch tool... i was wondering because when i was doing this, i didn't have to use the punch lol crap, now ill have to because then ill have to remove the bottom new bushing i just put on just to get to the top bushings
Nonetheless, the popping/clicking noise whenever turning wheels L & R is gone. i may have to revisit this and order two other bushings just to be on the safe side.
Now i understand why you had to use that punch tool... i was wondering because when i was doing this, i didn't have to use the punch lol crap, now ill have to because then ill have to remove the bottom new bushing i just put on just to get to the top bushings
Fyi I am surprised you could "leave the top bracket on" ... once your remove those four bolts there is nothing holding that top bracket -- it's just resting on top of the rack mounting tabs.
I would definitely suggest replacing the top ones too ... might as well get your rack nice and tight now while you are in DIY mode ...
Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 132
Likes: 6
From: Lawrence, KS
2003 MB C240. 2004 ML500, 2005 F150
I did this last night. I think its a little more difficult on a C240 with the BIG v6 engine because I didn't have clearance to remove the bushings after removing all the bolts holding the rack to the subframe. There just wasn't enough clearance between the bottom of the engine and the steering rack. What I did was put a second jack along with a small piece of 2x4 under the engine and lift it slightly to where I had enough clearance (barely) to pull the bushings out. I loosened the subframe bolts also but am not sure if that was really needed.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
I did this last night. I think its a little more difficult on a C240 with the BIG v6 engine because I didn't have clearance to remove the bushings after removing all the bolts holding the rack to the subframe. There just wasn't enough clearance between the bottom of the engine and the steering rack. What I did was put a second jack along with a small piece of 2x4 under the engine and lift it slightly to where I had enough clearance (barely) to pull the bushings out. I loosened the subframe bolts also but am not sure if that was really needed.
Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 132
Likes: 6
From: Lawrence, KS
2003 MB C240. 2004 ML500, 2005 F150
I think its a little better. Less wander when driving for sure. I still had some nasty rattles going over bumps when I took a test drive, so I pulled it back in the garage and replaced the worn sway bar bushings and now the rattles are gone. I think it was a combination of things. I'm taking the car in to get the tires balanced tonight after work and then I'll be able to really see how it is. /cross fingers.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
I think its a little better. Less wander when driving for sure. I still had some nasty rattles going over bumps when I took a test drive, so I pulled it back in the garage and replaced the worn sway bar bushings and now the rattles are gone. I think it was a combination of things. I'm taking the car in to get the tires balanced tonight after work and then I'll be able to really see how it is. /cross fingers.
As far as I can tell the bushings will affect the wandering and a bit of extra steering wheel rotation required when you are driving on a crowned road ... I did not notice the bushings were related to any steering noises unless the rubber was completely gone from them.The rubber on my car's front suspension seemed to last only 7-8 years, then I had to essentially replace everything. I still have a small clunk in the rack, haven't taken the time to figure out if it's the inner tie rod ball joint or slack in the rack itself ...
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2008 mercedes E350 4Matic
Bottom of my car doesn’t look the same
I saw the post and went ahead and changed my bushing on the rack. The bottom of my 4Matic wasn’t the same as posted. There weren’t any brackets on top or bottom. It bolted to the car with a nut and bolt. And there was hardly any room to put a wrench on the nut, on top. It kept spinning. Finally got it in and I didn’t have enough bolt to catch the nut. Frustrating. I finally caught one side and it seems that it is barely on. Did torque it to spec though. The after market bushing are probably not a good fit. No name on them, but the matched perfectly and went in nicely. But I think the metal sleeve might have been a touch too long. Going to redo it this weekend with genuine Mercedes parts.
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Newbie
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2008 mercedes E350 4Matic
Not 4Matic bushings!!!
I went to a dealership and wanted to order the bushings. $106 a piece. Sticker shock. I bit the bullet and bought it. When I got the receipt, I saw the part number. Looked it up online and found another Mercedes dealership selling it for $65. Got my money back and bought it online. The service guy said someone must have removed that upper mount plate at some time and replaced it with a nut and bolt. The nut isn’t on Mercedes diagram. I bought the 2 bolts and the plate. Coming from Germany though. 2-3 weeks. I will let you know how it turns out.
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Last edited by Gajendra Chand; Aug 15, 2019 at 02:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
I went to a dealership and wanted to order the bushings. $106 a piece. Sticker shock. I bit the bullet and bought it. When I got the receipt, I saw the part number. Looked it up online and found another Mercedes dealership selling it for $65. Got my money back and bought it online. The service guy said someone must have removed that upper mount plate at some time and replaced it with a nut and bolt. The nut isn’t on Mercedes diagram. I bought the 2 bolts and the plate. Coming from Germany though. 2-3 weeks. I will let you know how it turns out.
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
Yeah. I noticed the brand in the eBay pic afterwards. Lol
For reference I pulled up my car again in parts.com ... again two part numbers, one is $60 per, the other $15.
My guess is that they changed suppliers and are simply leaving the old expensive part around at that price for their service dept to use when they scalp their customers. I hope you didn't just waste a ton of money.
-- John
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
WOW great rightup! They don't write 'em like they used to.
I'm anxious to get this done, and I've already been waiting a couple weeks for other parts to arrive to I may just go to
Oriely and get the URO for 7.99 each and I can have them tomorrow! It's doubtful at 260K miles I'll ever be doing thiis job again,
but at least it's not that hard. I will more likely need control arms next. I'm not too worried about having to do these bushings again.
I need to do this ASAP as the whole rack is LOOSE and needs to be tighted so no point in doing half the job twice,
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ro0/2033330514
I'm anxious to get this done, and I've already been waiting a couple weeks for other parts to arrive to I may just go to
Oriely and get the URO for 7.99 each and I can have them tomorrow! It's doubtful at 260K miles I'll ever be doing thiis job again,
but at least it's not that hard. I will more likely need control arms next. I'm not too worried about having to do these bushings again.
I need to do this ASAP as the whole rack is LOOSE and needs to be tighted so no point in doing half the job twice,
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ro0/2033330514
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Quick question.
Can this repair be performed
off the ground with the wheels off?
I need more clearance than ramps alone can provide plus doing sway links and bushings,
Can this repair be performed
off the ground with the wheels off?
I need more clearance than ramps alone can provide plus doing sway links and bushings,
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Hi C230,
I think I mentioned in the original writeup that I didn't know if it would work due to the tie rods being pulled downward when the suspension is hanging, making if difficult to raise the rack at all. But I didn't try it.
If you are going to be pulling other suspension parts at the same time and don't mind disconnecting the tie rods from the steering knuckle then I imagine that should take care of that issue, no?
Let us know what you end up doing, and please take pics
Thanks. John
I think I mentioned in the original writeup that I didn't know if it would work due to the tie rods being pulled downward when the suspension is hanging, making if difficult to raise the rack at all. But I didn't try it.
If you are going to be pulling other suspension parts at the same time and don't mind disconnecting the tie rods from the steering knuckle then I imagine that should take care of that issue, no?
Let us know what you end up doing, and please take pics
Thanks. John
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Well I went to a of trouble to get it up on ramps with the weight on the wheels.
I bought these ramps that have jack in them to get more clearance.
Problems is I can't stop them from slipping. So I ended up jacking up the car
AND Then putting the ramps under and jacking up the ramps.
I can't seem to get enough clearance to get the
bushings out. The whole rack moves easily forward and I got the drivers side upper one off.
All the rubber on these is just gone. I also can't get the bracket out but it doesn't seem to matter.
Taking a break go look over the comments etc.
If I could remove the sway bar that would help. But now with all the weight on the wheels....not a good idea, right?
I think perhaps my engine mounts are toast (I mean the car has 260K on it, and I'm sure it could use a LOT of things).
Maybe if I jack up the engine ever so slightly? I'd be afraid to get my fingers caught in there is the jack should move or fail.
Hmmm......I guess I'll jack it up and remove the sway bar? I need to put a helicoil in one of the holes anyway and replace the end links.
Hmmmmm......
I bought these ramps that have jack in them to get more clearance.
Problems is I can't stop them from slipping. So I ended up jacking up the car
AND Then putting the ramps under and jacking up the ramps.
I can't seem to get enough clearance to get the
bushings out. The whole rack moves easily forward and I got the drivers side upper one off.
All the rubber on these is just gone. I also can't get the bracket out but it doesn't seem to matter.
Taking a break go look over the comments etc.
If I could remove the sway bar that would help. But now with all the weight on the wheels....not a good idea, right?
I think perhaps my engine mounts are toast (I mean the car has 260K on it, and I'm sure it could use a LOT of things).
Maybe if I jack up the engine ever so slightly? I'd be afraid to get my fingers caught in there is the jack should move or fail.
Hmmm......I guess I'll jack it up and remove the sway bar? I need to put a helicoil in one of the holes anyway and replace the end links.
Hmmmmm......
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 30, 2025 at 12:42 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Ok, that project is DONE! I couldn't have done it without my MbWorld comrades. 
So I DID end up putting a jack under the engine and jacking it up about 4".
That gave me the clearance to reach in, remove the old bushings and easily slide the new ones in.
I said a prayer before putting my fingers in there
, but my jack is pretty good, new & barely used and everything was very stable.
It's funny now that I'm old, I just now bought a nice 11 drawer combo kit, a bunch of new tools etc.
but the problem is I just don't have the energy I did like 10 years ago, and climbiing up and down gets pretty tiring.
I really just wanted to hire somebody but the guy I wanted to do the job is never available.
Knowing in advance everything I would need really helped.
I got inspired last night watching videos from this guy
.
He has a lot of Mercedes videos, ML, GL, and S class as a well as a Maser.
He really goes to town and does every possible service on these cars he buys from the auction without
breaking a sweat. I'm amazed how knowledgable this guy is.
He makes the so called pros look like trained monkeys.
So I'll see how I feel tomorrow and if I'm up to it, I'll replace the sway bar end links and bushings.
I also have a helicoil kit for a stripped bolt on one of the swaybar mounts.
And then the same for the rear axle, ie links and bushing.
While of course I could do much more, hopefully that will stop the clunking and
the car will track straight. It's a scary MESS under the car.
I think if I could find another coupe from Cali or Arizona with 100k miles or less
I would snag it.
Time for late dinner.
So I DID end up putting a jack under the engine and jacking it up about 4".
That gave me the clearance to reach in, remove the old bushings and easily slide the new ones in.
I said a prayer before putting my fingers in there
, but my jack is pretty good, new & barely used and everything was very stable.It's funny now that I'm old, I just now bought a nice 11 drawer combo kit, a bunch of new tools etc.
but the problem is I just don't have the energy I did like 10 years ago, and climbiing up and down gets pretty tiring.
I really just wanted to hire somebody but the guy I wanted to do the job is never available.
Knowing in advance everything I would need really helped.
I got inspired last night watching videos from this guy
He has a lot of Mercedes videos, ML, GL, and S class as a well as a Maser.
He really goes to town and does every possible service on these cars he buys from the auction without
breaking a sweat. I'm amazed how knowledgable this guy is.
He makes the so called pros look like trained monkeys.
So I'll see how I feel tomorrow and if I'm up to it, I'll replace the sway bar end links and bushings.
I also have a helicoil kit for a stripped bolt on one of the swaybar mounts.
And then the same for the rear axle, ie links and bushing.
While of course I could do much more, hopefully that will stop the clunking and
the car will track straight. It's a scary MESS under the car.
I think if I could find another coupe from Cali or Arizona with 100k miles or less
I would snag it.
Time for late dinner.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 30, 2025 at 12:39 AM.
