wolves

Hi guy, any suggestions and i will be more than grateful. I moved to uni so left my car at home and the battery was dead. I have now moved back home and this morning changed the battery. Everything was going fine until...

I put the key in the ignition, then turn it, but it does not fully switch on. The lights come on the dash, but the engine doesn't start up. The windows and doors and boot all work and so does the radio. So i am not sure if the battery replacement is to blame or what.

When researching online, I couldnt find an answer. But to best describe it, i found this youtube video of someone showing the same kind of problem:


Can anyone suggest anything.. Many thanks

Glyn M Ruck

I presume you mean the engine won't crank over? If so check fuse 52 in the front SAM. Make sure it's not blown or it will inhibit crank. Replace fuse with 20A.

wolves

Hey, thanks for your reply. I got back at checked it, and there is 15 in there, but it is not blown. Also on the fuse manual it said 15 should be in there.

wolves

It is fixed I read a post on another forum and they said move the steering Up-Down-In-Out...and it started right up

VVF

What does it have to do with the steering wheel adjustments? Shorted wires maybe?
Can you post a link?

Glyn M Ruck

That's crazy!! I also want to see that post.

OP ~ There is a Benz bulletin out to elevate fuse 52 to 20A from 15A

wolves

Hey yea the link was:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ml#post9700409

The only problem is, I just went to start car up again now, and getting same problem.. I probably shouldnt have got so happy.. Any suggestions

Glyn M Ruck

Do me a favour & waggle the shifter around in Neutral or Park & retry. We seem to have a rash of non starters that don't display the normal issues.

I wonder if older cars are not suffering interlock issues.

wolves

Hey, I tried it but still nothing. The shifter can not move past Park. Do you think it might be the ignition switch? Thanks

Glyn M Ruck

If you put your foot on the brake you should be able to move the shifter.

It could be an EIS problem. Need to follow this sort of diagnosis.

Glyn M Ruck

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...turn-over.html

wolves

Hey, yeah even with the brake pressed couldn't shift it out of park.. When the battery was dead before, I could use a battery jump pack and the car would start fine. This is leading me to think that maybe the battery could be faulty..could this be the cause of the symptoms? Thanks

Glyn M Ruck

These cars are voltage sensitive. Have the battery properly load tested.

GarrettCharlton

This happens to a lot of the 2000-2003 C Classes.... I determined mine was a the seat module. Mine wasn't the first to do this. Many other w203s had a grounding issue with the seat module. I would leave my car with no charging source all night and it would be dead by the morning. Being the Mercedes it is, the modules cost is high and both the driver and passenger seats require one.... but with good research perhaps eBay or Amazon you can get them cheap...... And replacing the seat module isn't actually that hard

Glyn M Ruck

If the battery is running flat due to parasitic draw it can be seat modules or A/C sniffer fan in the overhead console not going to sleep.

In this case the car wont crank.

otosan

U better put it on STAR, so turn that wheel full to the left and the right, start it n bring it to any workshop that can reset error code,

I got 4 page full of fault codes (mostly about undervoltage) after my battery died few weeks ago,

ESP, BAS, n Light Sensor directly showed up in MID panel but dissapear after 2nd start. But rest of the codes were still recorded inside. Could causing something to work in a way its not supoosed to,

My OCP also died because of this,

The worst part is, my speed sensor also gone bad not so long after. Ends up replacing the conductor plate.

Our w203 is very sensitive to the voltage level, so get your battery and alternator checked. Both on startup load, idle n when the car off.

Glyn M Ruck

All turning the wheel from lock to lock does is reset the steering angle sensor.

wolves

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice and taking the time to reply. I have now scraped the car as it would not have made sense spending any more money on it.. about a year ago, I got my car serviced by a "family trusted mechanic". He didn't properly connect the part to the control unit, and overtime water leaked into it, and also corroded the terminals of that part..this led to the car to go into limp mode and the speedometer to fluctuate up and down.. going to my regular indy, even they were not sure what was wrong.. first they serviced gear box, then did other things. Finally after spending a grand, I decided to take it to the dealer. They charged about £120 for diagnostics but eventually pinpointed the cause and told it would take 2 grand to fix they cleaned it for me, and I just put duct tape around the part and control unit housing, and just hoped for the best. However, I was not willing to risk doing long journeys and so now with this latest problem, I decided it was time to invest in a newer Mercedes than keep spending money on a car which restricted me. I will miss it as it was my first car, but guess nothing lasts forever. So just enjoy your rides and sometimes visiting a dealer could save you more money in the long run.