HeirKranz

A dremmel (dremel?) will work on that thing no problem, just use one of the smaller course tapered sander heads (conical shaped) to start then the smaller cylindrical ones to finish the job there are too many attachments for this versitile tool. file/sand away at 0 and 180 degrees untill you have 2 pirces of pully, just be carefull not to sand into the crank, block, or rubber gasket. If the dremmel will not fit due to clearance, i believe there is a 90 degree angle attachment. Wal Mart has it all! i feel your pain, my coupe is in the shop right now getting a faulty crank sensor, fuel pump and level sensor replaced.
on another note, ive had to swap my kleemann pully out so many times to have warantee work done at the dealership, that the key hole on the pulley itself is starting to wear on each side from the key, letting the pully have slight movement when not torqued, not sure if this is a big problem or not??? good luck

Buellwinkle

This was a huge problem with the recalled ASP pulleys. ASP got a bunch of pullies back with tweaked keyways and this bothered Lee and his thought is that this let to the failures. The problem is the key only goes into the key less than 1/2".

HeirKranz

alright so is that the reason that my crank sensor was fried due to a loose key?? do the degrees on the pully matter if they are a little off??

Buellwinkle

Don't know if that can cause it but my crank position sensor broke while they had it in for a detail. From what I've been told, the high pressure engine wash did the sensor in. I'm amazed that they brought the car out and gave it back to me all shiny and barely running.

C230 Sport Coup

What happened to the guy with the modified stock pulley?
Ie latest ASP pulley.
can't find the thread. Did he every get his sorted out?

WE all knew the alloy pulley was no good....too bad not everyone got the message....but like someone said, dremel tool should do it....i'd pull the bumper and radiator out, so I could see what I was doing, work from the front. A bit of a pain, but well worth it.
The aluminum should come off pretty easy.
I'd say some sort of pulley remover, rig up somethinga and drill some holes in the alumium from the side to grasp it. Don't want to damage the seal.

Diego

Hi guys ! i am sorry i did not anwser anything else about the pulley. I have good news i took my car to the shop today and they fixed it =)

Diego

I want to know if ASP still giving a refund for the pulley or if they are responsable or cover part of the repair of my car. I look back a little bit and i think they paid everything for the first guy that had the problem. So if someone knows anything about this please infor me to see what steps i have to take. THank you guys

Buellwinkle

That's great. What did they have to do to get it out? Hope it didn't cost you and arm and a leg.

Call Lee and see what he says about the warranty. I know that he'll more than likely upgrade your factory pulley as he did for all of us during the recall plus refund you some money for the difference.

Good luck...

Diego

Can you explain for me what he did exactly did! so in that way i can negotiate with him. thank you!

what pulley are you using right now? how it works ? u like it?... jejeje disculpa la preguntadera! but i need help right now to know what to do!

3pointedSTAR

Anyone still using the alloy pulley and have not had a problem? Please post how long you've had it on trouble free...

I'm one of those people who live overseas and apart from the cost of sending a lump of metal to the U.S. and back it will also take a long time.

However I've had my pulley on for 11 months now without any problems. I've taken it off for a visual inspection 3 times since the original install and all looks well.

Are there any visual clues for a failing pulley?

Cheers,

3Point

bajaiman

Yooo 3pointer!! Haven’t seen your post for quite awhile…. This is maybe off topic but hows ur car??…a lot faster than stock after the pulley and the intercooler? …have you had a chance to dyno it??

3pointedSTAR

Hey bajaiman!

I'm still using the all alloy pulley and with increasing posts of failed ASP all-alloys I'm starting to get scared. Like I have mentioned in my post above, I routinely take the pulley off myself to give it a visual inspection. The key groove is still 98% intact and there are no chips or grooves in the aluminium.

I drive my car hard... I always drag my lower gears all the way to red line.... and so far no problems.

I would appreciate it if someone started a poll to see how many all-alloy pulley as failed amongst the people who STILL USE this pulley.

---------------to bajaiman

Nope still no dyno yet... I have been to two but they were totally unreliable equipment... it's one of those places where 2JZ freaks go to show off their HP peaks (and their lack of a flat torque curve). I did one run without a printout and my 3Point Car scored a 179HP sea level with an ambient temperature of 26 degrees celcius...relativily humidity free because the dyno room is industrially air-conditioned.

My next project is to whack on a custom header and maybe get rid of my middle muffler.... after that I may have tolook for an engine transplant solution. Here in Thailand the highest spec C-Class they sell is a 200K, so there's no use looking for a C32 engine from the wreckers. The other option is an engine from an S320... but then again it may require as much mounting point relocation as stuffing in a cheap Jap engine... a reconditioned 2JZ perhaps... nah I wanna keep the integrity of owning a luxury car.

moondragon

yes, please tell us about your intercooler and crankshaft-swap if you have done it at all......
your earlier post on the latter sort of set me thinking ....

179hp at the wheels - is yours an autobox ?
PS: there are not many of us C200K guys on the forum

firstkill

Hi guys... I still use the alum pully from ASP... I had the pully installed for a while....but that doesnt say much. Lihn did my install and it seems to be fine... ive had my power steering pump replaced a few times... but thats about it for engine problems under the hood.

30,000 miles on the pully and i frequently redline 1-2-3 sometimes 4th...

I drive for miles around 4k rpm (6th gear) when im in a rush to get from Nor Cal to So Cal or the other direction.

(just in case ill knock on some wood :p )

Buellwinkle

The deal that ASP did for everyone that wanted it last year was to take your factory pulley and modify it for free. That's what I have and many have without any problems. It's very similar in design to what most tuners do like Renntech, Carlsson and Vaeth. He also provided a $100 refund and the cost of installation. Just call Lee and tell him what happened, you didn't know about the recall and what can he do for you. If you can't send him your factory pulley, see if he can get you one or order from Hoehn Mercedes in Carlsbad, CA. Ask for wholesale parts prices and the factory pulley (A 111 030 10 03), it's under $250.

Good luck

3pointedSTAR

I am saying that the dynometer that I tested my car on was totally useless... it must be one of those ones that over-compensate to make customers happy

There is no way I am getting that much at the wheels as I am using an Auto box.

If you want to know more about my intercooler, search this forum... I took ideas and measurements from many informative users on this forum and made a custom one myself.

As for the crankshaft swap... not worth the amount of labour involved just to gain 300 CC.

Anyone thought of a way to open up the air intake hose from the front? I feel this is too small for the size of the stock box.

3point

3pointedSTAR

Thanks for the tip, Lee and Candice still thinks that many of the original pulleys are OK if the install was done corrcectly. I will keep mine on but will check periodically.

It sounds like firstkill and I have similar driving habbits