I'm thinking about rebuilding the kompressor as it has over 150k miles on the original. Will do the removal and install myself.

Would appreciate any recommendations (based on your actual experience and not just hearsay) of supercharger/kompressor rebuilders located in the USA. If there are any in the northern california area, even better.

Really enjoying reading through the forum. Even already purchased a few tools in preparation for a few other items that I would like to take care of on the new/used benz. Such great info and helpful members here.

Thanks in advance.

 

I would like to know this too. As a side note, I know I can get a used one from an auto wrecker here for $250CDN or about $200USD so I am not sure if it is worth the extra cost to rebuild or not on such an old car I have.

also I thought it was about 500-600 to do a rebuild but I could be off on that. Maybe someone will chime in.

 

bump!
(maybe this is something people normally use the stealership for?)

 

I know that someone here used Stiegemeier. Do a search and I'm sure that their write-up of the experience will come up; I think they were very happy with the results.

 

First of all happy new year. All the C230 with the M271 use SC with spring in the snout (front side) and a 65mm pulley. The last SC MB used, was with the last 4 digits ...2780. Only the SC .....2080 has a plastic coupler. It's label is black with white letters. If your sc hasn't issues with oil leaking or noise, then the only thing you must do is to chnge the oil. The problem here is that you have to remove belt, front air hose, airfilter box with ECU, fuel line, injectors, intake manifold in order to take it out. If you want to open it then:
-remove the section with the by pass valve
-unscrew the torx bolt in the front in order to remove the oil. Be carefull with the O ring. The oil smells very very bad.
Put new oil in ONLY from MB http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Supercharger/ES1609983/ and not the GM from ebay. Screw the bolt back and you are ready.
Now if you want to take it apart:
-unscrew all the bolts in the front side.
-with rubber hummer hit gently the sides of the front sides and the front side will pop out.
-very carefull remove the front side with the pulley, then the center section with the rotors from the back side. Be carefull not to scratch the inside of the back section.
Now you will end with three parts on the table, the front part (snout), the main part with rotors and the back part (rotors housing).
Inside the back of rotors housing there is two bearings with blue grease. DONOT remove or clean it. It is a special stuff and I only manage to find from beaveroil.
Inspect the parts, clean them and if you want you can change the spring http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-SLK-200-SLK200-EATON-320132-A2710902080-Supercharger-Spring-/110872100952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d07e0058&vxp=mtr. The inside of the housing clean very careful with cloth.
After all that, put them in place (be carefull when you put the rotors in the housing not to scratch the inside. Apply a thin film of flange glue between the front and the main section in order to pevent oil leaking. Put the bolt and screw them gently. Eaton use blue soft glue. After 1/2 hour put the oil, and leave it for a while to check for oil leaking.
If you want to do some porting see here https://mbworld.org/forums/performan...5-porting.html
Good luck.

 

thanks gogos!

Unfortunately, I don't know what an ok kompressor should sound like. Since the milage is pretty high, over 159k and I did get the dreaded p0171 code lean air once before, I was thinking I should just get the whole thing rebuilt.

Looks like I may just have to go with one of the online sites and hope for the best....

 

Before doing anything you can connect a mechanical boost gauge (20$ max) and check the boost. If you see 0.9bar at full throttle then your sc is ok. Now about the noise, you can it check with another c230 if yours sounds different. Anyway your mechanic can check it with his special earphone (like doctors with a metal stick at the end). If the sc sound ok, then don't spend money on a rebuilt.
Anyway the choice is yours.

 

Hey gogos,
Is MB supercharger oil that different from GM or Ford oil? Except for the hefty price tag

 

I tried the GM oil twice and after 1 month that I drain it out is was coloured black like engine oil after 10.000khm and I put the oil from MB. The OEM oil even after 100.000Khm it doesn't change colour. Just smells very bad. I know that the price for the OEM is three times up but I thing it worth the money.
Any mechanic or Diyselfer can open a SC and make a partial rebuilt. It is a simple mechanical assembly not a rocket science.

 

thanks again gogos. looks like I will try to put in a vac/boost gauge first.

I like the inside ashtray look, but alittle weary that the cheap pepboys one might not be very accurate? Also seems like the threads on the gauge install have several various places to insert the line....doesn't seem to be one thread with a really good, clean install pics.

 

Good to know, thanks
I was planning to suck some oil out and refill, because mine seems to be sweating oil a little.

 

It's a boost gauge, not a heart valve. Cheap ones, properly installed, will be as accurate as a super duper Christmas tree lit one.

 

You can't suck oil from the sc without removing it from the engine because the oil drain - refiling spot is at the lower side and if you open it the oil will drain out.
In order to have access to the the SC you have to take it out. Can you see from where is sweating oil?

 

I agree with Tommy. It is very simple. On the other hand if you dont want to make all this you can order Ultra Gauge and monitor 48 engine sensors just pluging it to the OBD II port. I use it for many years and it is very usefull. For 60.95$ you can constantly check up to 8 gauge on the same screen like boost, maf, IAT, engine temperature, a/f ratio, timing advance, fuel trims ect, read codes and turn the engine light off. Check it here http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

 

Seems like these guys are refilling using that port:
Motor MB M271. Ubicación del tornillo de nivel del kompressor eaton - YouTube
Motor MB M271 - Como añadir aceite al kompressor eaton - YouTube

So this can only mean his SC ate a lot of oil and was underfilled when he opened it?
Also Mini guys are changing oil in their M45 Eatons using a syringe, kind of similar to this : http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-writeup-(pics)

I can kind of see it sweating on the right side of the charger towards the output part.

 

I was talking for the same port. The M45 needs 125ml oil. On my first attempt to change the oil on my car, I follow the same steps like the links you post from youtube and when I open the port some oil came out on the engine and it smells very bad. Then I get a syringe with a thin hose on the end (like the third link on your post) and try to suck the oil out. The thin hose cant get inside and reach the lower level. At the end I manage to suck some oil, but I didn't know how much has remain in the SC. For me the best is when someone takes out the sc, in order to change the two rubber hose behind it on the engine side, he can open the port and after draining the oil in a bowl, he measure it and put back the same ml of oil.

 

http://www.magnacharger.com/

 

This will be one of my spring projects on the car if it is as easy as it seems from this thread.

I looked at the two videos referenced by VVF ... it looks as though the drain-fill plug is placed at the overflow level, which should make it relatively easy to refill to the correct level no matter how much of the old oil you are able to extract. The trick would be to have a small and naturally curved tube to stick in the hole to get it to wander down to the bottom of the sump inside the SC housing. If you can find the right place in there for the tube to reach you should be able to get out almost all of the old oil. I would much rather try that first than spend hours removing the SC.

Has anyone done this in the past year?

Also, the Mini Eaton 45 video showed a small rear oil chamber ... does ours have that?

Thanks. John