Recommendations for kompressor rebuilders?
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2005 c230 kompressor
Recommendations for kompressor rebuilders?
I'm thinking about rebuilding the kompressor as it has over 150k miles on the original. Will do the removal and install myself.
Would appreciate any recommendations (based on your actual experience and not just hearsay) of supercharger/kompressor rebuilders located in the USA. If there are any in the northern california area, even better.
Really enjoying reading through the forum. Even already purchased a few tools in preparation for a few other items that I would like to take care of on the new/used benz. Such great info and helpful members here.
Thanks in advance.
Would appreciate any recommendations (based on your actual experience and not just hearsay) of supercharger/kompressor rebuilders located in the USA. If there are any in the northern california area, even better.
Really enjoying reading through the forum. Even already purchased a few tools in preparation for a few other items that I would like to take care of on the new/used benz. Such great info and helpful members here.
Thanks in advance.
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C230 COUPE 2003 M271
I would like to know this too. As a side note, I know I can get a used one from an auto wrecker here for $250CDN or about $200USD so I am not sure if it is worth the extra cost to rebuild or not on such an old car I have.
also I thought it was about 500-600 to do a rebuild but I could be off on that. Maybe someone will chime in.
also I thought it was about 500-600 to do a rebuild but I could be off on that. Maybe someone will chime in.
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I know that someone here used Stiegemeier. Do a search and I'm sure that their write-up of the experience will come up; I think they were very happy with the results.
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Clk 200k cabrio w209, Jeep Crand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, Smart For two
First of all happy new year. All the C230 with the M271 use SC with spring in the snout (front side) and a 65mm pulley. The last SC MB used, was with the last 4 digits ...2780. Only the SC .....2080 has a plastic coupler. It's label is black with white letters. If your sc hasn't issues with oil leaking or noise, then the only thing you must do is to chnge the oil. The problem here is that you have to remove belt, front air hose, airfilter box with ECU, fuel line, injectors, intake manifold in order to take it out. If you want to open it then:
-remove the section with the by pass valve
-unscrew the torx bolt in the front in order to remove the oil. Be carefull with the O ring. The oil smells very very bad.
Put new oil in ONLY from MB http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Supercharger/ES1609983/ and not the GM from ebay. Screw the bolt back and you are ready.
Now if you want to take it apart:
-unscrew all the bolts in the front side.
-with rubber hummer hit gently the sides of the front sides and the front side will pop out.
-very carefull remove the front side with the pulley, then the center section with the rotors from the back side. Be carefull not to scratch the inside of the back section.
Now you will end with three parts on the table, the front part (snout), the main part with rotors and the back part (rotors housing).
Inside the back of rotors housing there is two bearings with blue grease. DONOT remove or clean it. It is a special stuff and I only manage to find from beaveroil.
Inspect the parts, clean them and if you want you can change the spring http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-SLK-200-SLK200-EATON-320132-A2710902080-Supercharger-Spring-/110872100952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d07e0058&vxp=mtr. The inside of the housing clean very careful with cloth.
After all that, put them in place (be carefull when you put the rotors in the housing not to scratch the inside. Apply a thin film of flange glue between the front and the main section in order to pevent oil leaking. Put the bolt and screw them gently. Eaton use blue soft glue. After 1/2 hour put the oil, and leave it for a while to check for oil leaking.
If you want to do some porting see here https://mbworld.org/forums/performan...5-porting.html
Good luck.
-remove the section with the by pass valve
-unscrew the torx bolt in the front in order to remove the oil. Be carefull with the O ring. The oil smells very very bad.
Put new oil in ONLY from MB http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Supercharger/ES1609983/ and not the GM from ebay. Screw the bolt back and you are ready.
Now if you want to take it apart:
-unscrew all the bolts in the front side.
-with rubber hummer hit gently the sides of the front sides and the front side will pop out.
-very carefull remove the front side with the pulley, then the center section with the rotors from the back side. Be carefull not to scratch the inside of the back section.
Now you will end with three parts on the table, the front part (snout), the main part with rotors and the back part (rotors housing).
Inside the back of rotors housing there is two bearings with blue grease. DONOT remove or clean it. It is a special stuff and I only manage to find from beaveroil.
Inspect the parts, clean them and if you want you can change the spring http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-SLK-200-SLK200-EATON-320132-A2710902080-Supercharger-Spring-/110872100952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d07e0058&vxp=mtr. The inside of the housing clean very careful with cloth.
After all that, put them in place (be carefull when you put the rotors in the housing not to scratch the inside. Apply a thin film of flange glue between the front and the main section in order to pevent oil leaking. Put the bolt and screw them gently. Eaton use blue soft glue. After 1/2 hour put the oil, and leave it for a while to check for oil leaking.
If you want to do some porting see here https://mbworld.org/forums/performan...5-porting.html
Good luck.
Last edited by gogos; 01-04-2015 at 06:53 AM. Reason: Spelling
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2005 c230 kompressor
thanks gogos!
Unfortunately, I don't know what an ok kompressor should sound like. Since the milage is pretty high, over 159k and I did get the dreaded p0171 code lean air once before, I was thinking I should just get the whole thing rebuilt.
Looks like I may just have to go with one of the online sites and hope for the best....
Unfortunately, I don't know what an ok kompressor should sound like. Since the milage is pretty high, over 159k and I did get the dreaded p0171 code lean air once before, I was thinking I should just get the whole thing rebuilt.
Looks like I may just have to go with one of the online sites and hope for the best....
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Clk 200k cabrio w209, Jeep Crand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, Smart For two
Before doing anything you can connect a mechanical boost gauge (20$ max) and check the boost. If you see 0.9bar at full throttle then your sc is ok. Now about the noise, you can it check with another c230 if yours sounds different. Anyway your mechanic can check it with his special earphone (like doctors with a metal stick at the end). If the sc sound ok, then don't spend money on a rebuilt.
Anyway the choice is yours.
Anyway the choice is yours.
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Clk 200k cabrio w209, Jeep Crand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, Smart For two
Any mechanic or Diyselfer can open a SC and make a partial rebuilt. It is a simple mechanical assembly not a rocket science.
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2005 c230 kompressor
thanks again gogos. looks like I will try to put in a vac/boost gauge first.
I like the inside ashtray look, but alittle weary that the cheap pepboys one might not be very accurate? Also seems like the threads on the gauge install have several various places to insert the line....doesn't seem to be one thread with a really good, clean install pics.
I like the inside ashtray look, but alittle weary that the cheap pepboys one might not be very accurate? Also seems like the threads on the gauge install have several various places to insert the line....doesn't seem to be one thread with a really good, clean install pics.
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Clk 200k cabrio w209, Jeep Crand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, Smart For two
In order to have access to the the SC you have to take it out. Can you see from where is sweating oil?
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#15
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Motor MB M271. UbicaciĆ³n del tornillo de nivel del kompressor eaton - YouTube
Motor MB M271 - Como aƱadir aceite al kompressor eaton - YouTube
So this can only mean his SC ate a lot of oil and was underfilled when he opened it?
Also Mini guys are changing oil in their M45 Eatons using a syringe, kind of similar to this : http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-writeup-(pics)
I can kind of see it sweating on the right side of the charger towards the output part.
Last edited by VVF; 01-07-2015 at 05:16 AM.
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Seems like these guys are refilling using that port:
Motor MB M271. UbicaciĆ³n del tornillo de nivel del kompressor eaton - YouTube
Motor MB M271 - Como aƱadir aceite al kompressor eaton - YouTube
So this can only mean his SC ate a lot of oil and was underfilled when he opened it?
Also Mini guys are changing oil in their M45 Eatons using a syringe, kind of similar to this : http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-writeup-(pics)
I can kind of see it sweating on the right side of the charger towards the output part.
Motor MB M271. UbicaciĆ³n del tornillo de nivel del kompressor eaton - YouTube
Motor MB M271 - Como aƱadir aceite al kompressor eaton - YouTube
So this can only mean his SC ate a lot of oil and was underfilled when he opened it?
Also Mini guys are changing oil in their M45 Eatons using a syringe, kind of similar to this : http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-writeup-(pics)
I can kind of see it sweating on the right side of the charger towards the output part.
Last edited by gogos; 01-07-2015 at 12:10 PM.
#18
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This will be one of my spring projects on the car if it is as easy as it seems from this thread.
I looked at the two videos referenced by VVF ... it looks as though the drain-fill plug is placed at the overflow level, which should make it relatively easy to refill to the correct level no matter how much of the old oil you are able to extract. The trick would be to have a small and naturally curved tube to stick in the hole to get it to wander down to the bottom of the sump inside the SC housing. If you can find the right place in there for the tube to reach you should be able to get out almost all of the old oil. I would much rather try that first than spend hours removing the SC.
Has anyone done this in the past year?
Also, the Mini Eaton 45 video showed a small rear oil chamber ... does ours have that?
Thanks. John
I looked at the two videos referenced by VVF ... it looks as though the drain-fill plug is placed at the overflow level, which should make it relatively easy to refill to the correct level no matter how much of the old oil you are able to extract. The trick would be to have a small and naturally curved tube to stick in the hole to get it to wander down to the bottom of the sump inside the SC housing. If you can find the right place in there for the tube to reach you should be able to get out almost all of the old oil. I would much rather try that first than spend hours removing the SC.
Has anyone done this in the past year?
Also, the Mini Eaton 45 video showed a small rear oil chamber ... does ours have that?
Thanks. John