ECU Removal
#1
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C180K (M271)
ECU Removal
I planning to chip my ECU and I want to know how can I safely remove the ECU (M271 engine) from my car. Pictures would be very helpful.
Any other relevant info are welcomed.
Thank you in advance.
Kotsios
Any other relevant info are welcomed.
Thank you in advance.
Kotsios
#2
Re: ECU Removal
Originally posted by Kotsios
I planning to chip my ECU and I want to know how can I safely remove the ECU (M271 engine) from my car. Pictures would be very helpful.
Any other relevant info are welcomed.
Thank you in advance.
Kotsios
I planning to chip my ECU and I want to know how can I safely remove the ECU (M271 engine) from my car. Pictures would be very helpful.
Any other relevant info are welcomed.
Thank you in advance.
Kotsios
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#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
anybody have any recommendations on how to remove the ecu from the m271? I took a look at it this morning and couldn't even fathom how the heck one would remove it in the little room there is on the side of the unit to undue the torx screws...the front 2 it seemed i might be able to get a socket wrench with a torx adapter attached but the back 2 there was no way i could get the adapter plus the wrench down in there...any suggestions? or anyone done this before?
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
have there been any threads posted for this? i can't seem to get to the back two screws and want to make sure i'm doing this right...
any of you guys have the official removal instructions? all i can find are instructions for other engines and its not helping...
thanks,
any of you guys have the official removal instructions? all i can find are instructions for other engines and its not helping...
thanks,
#6
Its pretty easy to remove, once the plastic housing comes out. Essentially remove the top screws from the intake, take out the filter, and also the front ram air pipe. If you look where the cone filter connects, from the top you should see 2 torx bolts, its kind of hard to find the proper socket because the plastic surrounding requires a special extended bit. I used I think a 9mm with a 1/4. Now comes the tricky part. I recommend using a set of wire clamp removers. Basically there is a hose underneath that connects to the supercharger that you will not be able to get to unless you invest in this tool. The flexibility of it allows for easy removal of spring clamps. It should take you about 10 to do, and then you can just push the plastic housing back and just pull up.
I dont have any pics sorry. Hope this helps
I dont have any pics sorry. Hope this helps
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
I found it easiest to just remove the whole airbox. Look for the MAF replacement DIY's - you only need to go as far as removing the airbox. The ECU is attached to the airbox with 4 torx screws. Not saying this is the only way, just what I found easiest to do...
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
great thanks... i will try this method because it sounds more simple (i hope)... attached is a picture of the ECU still in the car... very inconveniently placed
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
The only tough part is the large diameter hose clamp on the other side of the MAF (near the firewall). I replaced the stock clamp with a 'normal' one (i.e. that you use a regular screwdriver on). Have fun!
#10
Member
+1 on removing the entire air box assembly for access. On the M271, the fourth and lower level torx screw closest to the driver is a major ***** to get to without small tools, small hands, and alot of patience. It took me 15 minutes to remove the first three screws and almost an hour to get the last one.
When I removed the ECU for a buddy's re-flash on his M271, I took off the entire air box this time and was able to extract the ECU in less than 20 minutes. Took me less than 30 minutes to remove the air box, but I did not have to contend with small openings and chewed up hands (even with Mx gloves), so it was worth it to me doing it this way as opposed to trying to move the ECU on it's own.
When I removed the ECU for a buddy's re-flash on his M271, I took off the entire air box this time and was able to extract the ECU in less than 20 minutes. Took me less than 30 minutes to remove the air box, but I did not have to contend with small openings and chewed up hands (even with Mx gloves), so it was worth it to me doing it this way as opposed to trying to move the ECU on it's own.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
+1 on removing the entire air box assembly for access. On the M271, the fourth and lower level torx screw closest to the driver is a major ***** to get to without small tools, small hands, and alot of patience. It took me 15 minutes to remove the first three screws and almost an hour to get the last one.
When I removed the ECU for a buddy's re-flash on his M271, I took off the entire air box this time and was able to extract the ECU in less than 20 minutes. Took me less than 30 minutes to remove the air box, but I did not have to contend with small openings and chewed up hands (even with Mx gloves), so it was worth it to me doing it this way as opposed to trying to move the ECU on it's own.
When I removed the ECU for a buddy's re-flash on his M271, I took off the entire air box this time and was able to extract the ECU in less than 20 minutes. Took me less than 30 minutes to remove the air box, but I did not have to contend with small openings and chewed up hands (even with Mx gloves), so it was worth it to me doing it this way as opposed to trying to move the ECU on it's own.
i saw the instructions to remove the airbox and it seems do-able.. i just wish it weren't so damn cold out
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#12
Member
That is where the 100 proof Stoli shots come in handy
Seriously, the air box removal is a pretty straight-forward job and can be accomplished in less than 30 minutes. Trying to remove very small torx screws with very cold fingers can lead to missing screws, so if it warms up for you, try the air box route. Good luck.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seriously, the air box removal is a pretty straight-forward job and can be accomplished in less than 30 minutes. Trying to remove very small torx screws with very cold fingers can lead to missing screws, so if it warms up for you, try the air box route. Good luck.
#13
You'll have to share your technique w/me b/c it took me at least 45 minutes just to remove the hose clamp. I can imagine a flex drive can remove the torx screws. I'm not sure how the company did it, but they removed the ECU w/o removing the air box in about 30 minutes when they reflashed it. It's possible, but I'm just very doubtful that most people can remove the air box "easily." It was a pain in the ****. Thanks to swapping the crazy stupid MB clamp with a normal plumber's hose clamp, it'll be much easier the second time around. The first time is a @#$@# though.
It's a bit more helpful to post the link. STFF as a response to member's questions is getting really old. MTNMAN82 posted some good pics here, as did I: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
It's a bit more helpful to post the link. STFF as a response to member's questions is getting really old. MTNMAN82 posted some good pics here, as did I: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-04-2011 at 09:52 PM.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
That is where the 100 proof Stoli shots come in handy
Seriously, the air box removal is a pretty straight-forward job and can be accomplished in less than 30 minutes. Trying to remove very small torx screws with very cold fingers can lead to missing screws, so if it warms up for you, try the air box route. Good luck.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seriously, the air box removal is a pretty straight-forward job and can be accomplished in less than 30 minutes. Trying to remove very small torx screws with very cold fingers can lead to missing screws, so if it warms up for you, try the air box route. Good luck.