VVF

Sure, $40 for voltage regulator, $50? for the pulley, $30 for tools, + time.
(Most people claim you need to take the alternator off the car to replace the VR).
I got the alt for $200 from rockauto a couple years ago.

Icebreaker

My pulley actually went at about 80k, my regulator just went last week at 129k. I paid $35 for the regulator, $28 for the pulley and $9 for the tool.
I think through all the years I've owned this car (since 2006) I haven't spent more than $500 on parts which also included 3 mounts, a pilot bushing (the trans electrical connector) and a water manifold. Oh I did just replaced a batter after 10 years service (never had a battery lasting that long before!!).

VVF

My pulley crapped at something like 135k, or perhaps earlier because I started experiencing belt squeal when in reverse+AC.
When I did mine, the general opinion was that you need to take the alternator off for both the pulley and the voltage regulator, so I figured might as well replace the whole thang. Hope it lasts a long time, otherwise will replace parts of it only

Regarding the $500 max, just the shocks/struts+mounts will get you into mid-600s
And at your mileage, might be time to look into them. Some folks are known to replace struts at 60k something...

Icebreaker

I looked at mine, still looks good. Bound and rebound still good. I do hear some creaking from the upper mounts, but nothing major. Even if I was to change the struts out they are only $130 for the pair and I have all the tools to replace them. My tires are all worn evenly, and the car doesn't bounce up and down when I hit uneven ground. I think maybe the weather here is more forgiving than Texas (I'm in Southern California), that's why maybe the cars don't have so much issues.

VVF

Bilstein struts are $110 each, and are closest to OEM. Other ones not sure about the longevity. But yeah, I am only going to replace them because the left mount is knocking, otherwise they feel ok to me. No sense in replacing just the strut mounts at 151k though
In fact, the rear shocks seem more worn.

Probably true on the weather, also maybe the road quality takes its toll. When I was commuting the back roads are pretty beat up here.

Icebreaker

I'm waiting for the 2017 E then I'm going to replace mine. The wife doesn't feel safe in an old car although we also have a 2000 Jag XJ8 but it only has 60k on it, this one we'll probably keep till it gets to 100k. I'm already retired so driving that to 100k might take me till I'm 90, LOL!

VVF

That is not unreasonable, sometimes it's making you nervous kind of anticipating that something might go out on an older car...
100k is like a magic number, as is 10 years... Stuff starts to noticeably deteriorate by then.
I am planning to keep mine a year-two longer, and then probably will look into 2014-ish E250 diesels.
On the other hand, the resale values of w203's are so low now that it might make sense to keep it as an extra vs selling...

Bearded

really? resale is bad? in Australia they still get sold at a reasonable price, they still roughly 9-11k if you find one with descent miles/km and im talking bout 2003-2005 models

Bearded

also on a side note, whenever I turn on the blower fan it seems to be pulsing , as if it blows and stops then rushes out. any idea what it could be?

Icebreaker

You're absolutely right! 100k and 10 years seems to be the magic number. I'm also noticing a squeak on the left strut mount. Seems like Mercedes is pretty consistant in what they make fall apart at certain mileage/year!
I just had an alternator light come on 2 weeks ago and replaced the voltage regulator. The voltage charges fine at 14.2v but I still got the light. I ended up getting a used alternator from eBay for $80 and it's working fine. I just need to get by till the Summer I think (hopefully that's when the new E body comes out.

Icebreaker

Bearded, are you in Australia? In my country (Thailand) probably between 10-15K. Last time I went back a 911 Porsche new is over $300k!
Anyways, back to your noise. Does it do it at all speeds or only on high fan?

Bearded

yea im from Australia, and yea the fan noise only happens when on high

Icebreaker

Have you checked the resister block near the motor? Does the motor run all the time in other speeds? Could either be a bad resister block or the motor.

Bearded

the blower only makes that noise when I turn it on high, after 5mins the noise disappears

VVF

In USA, 2005's go for about $4-6k, older ones are even cheaper. I think even the freshest 2007s are now cheaper than $9k.
Actually the old w202's are more valued than old w203's, probably because of somewhat higher quality?

Bearded, I would [remove the blower assy and] apply 12v directly to the motor (bypassing the regulator). Then go from there...
(Might not need to remove it, don't remember if the motor inputs are accessible from below)

Icebreaker

VVF buddy, are you sure we can get that much for it? It's already been through 2 body changes hasn't it?

VVF

Yep, w205 is current...
That is what I am seeing on craigslist and such, but as we know the asking price is not necessarily the selling price
At less than 3-4k I think I'd rather keep it as an N+1 car instead of selling...

Icebreaker

I would really like to keep mine also and maybe put a turbo to charge the supercharger, I think an F70 would do nicely as it could take over the supercharger above 3000rpm all the way past 5000 where the supercharger starts to give up, but I don't think my wife will let me keep 3 cars for sure. You're absolutely right, 3-4k isn't really worth it after all it's been our baby for the past 10 years and I almost know how to fix everything on it already!! LOL!

TH14

My problem starts right after turning the car on. I don't like the sound of my engine (if it is engine, I'm not sure). It sounds like groundhog or something. Somebody else could say it is a noise like a dryer or vacum cleaner. As more I press the gas pedal the louder is the noise. When I turn gear to Drive mode but still keep breaking pedal noise is quieter. Then, when I start moving and pressing the gas pedal the noise is louder and louder, proportional to pressing the gas pedal. At about 45 km/h and faster it is almost silent, especially when moving with constant speed, but everytime I accelerate noise is being heard. Generally, the faster I ride, the noise is less audible. It drives me crazy, when I accelerate after stopping.
It sounds more or less like this after fire up the engine (I don't know if it's a righ phrase in English, but I meant starting the car ): Please, help. What could it be? I don't think it's a palluey, because after start and after turning gear into drive mode while my foot is on the break it is a little bit more silent, althought all pulleys are still moving...

Icebreaker

Sounds to me like your lifters are not holding oil pressure as it (they) should. This is what they look like: https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/cat...html?3594=2190
How many miles do you have on your car?

TH14

Almost 100 000 kilometers, so it's about 62 000 Miles. My car is not so new and it is wel understood that somebody could think it is impossible, but car is very well kept and has all documennts, so I believe counter wasn't draw back. I have just watched a few videos on youtube with noisy valve lifter and I think You could be right. Thank you so much! So far nobody had no idea what could couse the noise or they said it is normal, or that it's a kompressor and I should just enjoy...
How much could replacement cost? I know that there are different countries, economies and currency, however I would like to know more or less...

Icebreaker

Sorry I don't know as I always work on my own cars unless they are still under warranty. The problem is even if you don't buy these parts from the dealer, $25 x 16 (valves) is still going to be $400. It is quite a tedious job so even if it takes 5 hours you're still looking at $1000 or more. I don't know what the rate is in Poland. You could always ask the dealer how many hours it takes to do the job and shop around and ask an independent garage what their hourly rates are and go from there.

VVF

The first second or so after startup sounds like lifters/chain tensioner not holding pressure. But after that I think it's some accessory driven by the v-belt. It almost sounds normal to me. A way to check if it's some pulley or accessory is to remove the belt and start the car without it for a dozen seconds.

TH14

Thank You very much for Your responses!
I don't think it is a pulley, moreover because Mercedes service said they are fine year ago (I own the car for 2 years and noise exists all the time with the same intense till those 2 years. Unfortunatelly I didn't ask pre-owner from when noise occures) . Maybe I'll check it on my own, but I didn't do that ever before, so I'm a bit afraid of removing the belt. Do you think someone, who has no experience about that, will manage? I'm afraid there is not much free space for amateur like me.
As it is terribly costly to buy and install new lifters and not easy to diagnose to be sure, I thought before spending so much money, time and nerves, before that maybe I could try add to enigne oil some kind of improver like this:
http://www.atu.de/shop/OEle-w5532/Additive-und-Motorzusaetze_w11730/Liqui-Moly-Hydro-Stoessel-Additiv-Motoroelzusatz-300-ml-LM1009
or like that:
http://www.ceramizer.com
What do You think about it? Can it help? Is it safe?

Bearded

Sorry completely forgot about this post :p After reading what you wrote it doesn't seem that adding that addictive would help that much, but you could always try. It could be a short term fix or delay until you have enough to get it repaired