When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in the process of replacing a broken window regulator in my 2005 C320 sport sedan.
I purchased part# 203-720-15-46. Looks like with glass is attached to this regulator via holes in the glass.
The regulator that I removed looks like it has part# 203-720-29-46 stamped into it. Also, it seems like the glass clips/holders are different. This one does not require holes in the glass and the driver glass i pulled out, solextra 43r 000262, looks like it is the correct glass but there are no holes to attach this glass to the regulator clips of the new part#.
Did the the W203 model have multiple regulator/glass options?
Last edited by George Bokas; 07-18-2016 at 11:48 AM.
I am in the process of replacing a broken window regulator in my 2005 C320 sport sedan.
I purchased part# 203-720-15-46. Looks like with glass is attached to this regulator via holes in the glass.
The regulator that I removed looks like it has part# 203-720-29-46 stamped into it. Also, it seems like the glass clips/holders are different. This one does not require holes in the glass and the driver glass i pulled out, solextra 43r 000262, looks like it is the correct glass but there are no holes to attach this glass to the regulator clips of the new part#.
Did the the W203 model have multiple regulator/glass options?
My regulator cable just broke so I am starting to research this. I am seeing 203-720-31-46 and 203-720-39-46 as two options for the C230/C280 .... and I see 203-720-15-46 as an option for the C240/C320/C32. I am surprised there is a different between those two sets of models ... but I have a C230 so I will be looking at 31-46 or 39-46 myself.
** Update 2/16 **
- I just ordered 203-720-31-46, which the dealerships have said is the correct part for my VIN.
- The window mounting brackets are 203-720-01-14 ... amounts to a round rubber gasket and bolt/nut set to fasten the window to the regulator. $20 each online ... doesn't look like these will break easily so I am not ordering them. (I can always replace them later without removing the regulator if I ever need to.)
- The Rivets are part #0039902497 ... they are described as "4.8x8 blind" ... assuming that means 4.8mm diameter x 8mm length ... that's a 3/16" x 5/16" rivet ... so I'll just get some from the local hardware store instead of buy "MB Genuine" ones for $1-2 each.
** Update 3/8 **
I replaced the regulator this past weekend. A few things to note:
1) You do not have to remove the grab handle bracket from the door! The top-right regulator mount rivet is to the right of the bracket by ~3/4" allowing you to drill it out without the bracket getting in the way. Considering this bracket is what you use to pull the door closed, I was relieved to be able to leave it intact with existing steel rivets.
2) You do not have to unplug the airbag! Just drill out the three rivets, then use a bungee cord to hang the airbag loosely from the top of the door sill. This eliminates the need to disconnect battery, potentially end up requiring a STAR reset, etc.
3) My window glass had no mounting holes in it ... the bottom simply fits in a rubber u-channel in each mounting bracket, and the tightening screws for the brackets are below the glass level.
4) I used Aluminum 3/16" short rivets. 4.8mm is 3/16" exactly ... the grab thickness of the rivet only needs to be 1/8" since you are holding together two flat pieces of sheet metal. If you can find steel rivets in that size great ... but I could not find them ... and from what I could see from the pics the MB Genuine replacement rivets also looked like aluminum. I picked up a package of 15 rivets for $2 at the local hardware store.
5) If you don't have experience drilling rivets, here's what I learned: (a) use a 3/16" drill bit ... this is the size of the rivet and of the holes. (b) get the sharpest metal drill bit you can find ... the stock rivets are steel. (c) don't start with smaller bits and work your way up ... start with the 3/16" bit so you can drill the head off the rivet without loosening it up (and then it spins in the hole making it impossible to drill it further) (d) if you can get the flange of the rivet head to pop off while you are drilling, great. But if you get to a point where the rivet spins in the hole and the head won't fall off, then you have to use a small chisel to get under the rivet head and pry it up so you can rip the head off with pliers. This took me a considerable amount of time to do. (e) once the head of the rivet is removed, just tap with a small punch or nail and hammer to pop the body of the rivet into the door cavity.
My regulator cable just broke so I am starting to research this. I am seeing 203-720-31-46 and 203-720-39-46 as two options for the C230/C280 .... and I see 203-720-15-46 as an option for the C240/C320/C32. I am surprised there is a different between those two sets of models ... but I have a C230 so I will be looking at 31-46 or 39-46 myself.
** Update 2/16 **
- I just ordered 203-720-31-46, which the dealerships have said is the correct part for my VIN.
- The window mounting brackets are 203-720-01-14 ... amounts to a round rubber gasket and bolt/nut set to fasten the window to the regulator. $20 each online ... doesn't look like these will break easily so I am not ordering them. (I can always replace them later without removing the regulator if I ever need to.)
- The Rivets are part #0039902497 ... they are described as "4.8x8 blind" ... assuming that means 4.8mm diameter x 8mm length ... that's a 3/16" x 5/16" rivet ... so I'll just get some from the local hardware store instead of buy "MB Genuine" ones for $1-2 each.
** Update 3/8 **
I replaced the regulator this past weekend. A few things to note:
1) You do not have to remove the grab handle bracket from the door! The top-right regulator mount rivet is to the right of the bracket by ~3/4" allowing you to drill it out without the bracket getting in the way. Considering this bracket is what you use to pull the door closed, I was relieved to be able to leave it intact with existing steel rivets.
2) You do not have to unplug the airbag! Just drill out the three rivets, then use a bungee cord to hang the airbag loosely from the top of the door sill. This eliminates the need to disconnect battery, potentially end up requiring a STAR reset, etc.
3) My window glass had no mounting holes in it ... the bottom simply fits in a rubber u-channel in each mounting bracket, and the tightening screws for the brackets are below the glass level.
4) I used Aluminum 3/16" short rivets. 4.8mm is 3/16" exactly ... the grab thickness of the rivet only needs to be 1/8" since you are holding together two flat pieces of sheet metal. If you can find steel rivets in that size great ... but I could not find them ... and from what I could see from the pics the MB Genuine replacement rivets also looked like aluminum. I picked up a package of 15 rivets for $2 at the local hardware store.
5) If you don't have experience drilling rivets, here's what I learned: (a) use a 3/16" drill bit ... this is the size of the rivet and of the holes. (b) get the sharpest metal drill bit you can find ... the stock rivets are steel. (c) don't start with smaller bits and work your way up ... start with the 3/16" bit so you can drill the head off the rivet without loosening it up (and then it spins in the hole making it impossible to drill it further) (d) if you can get the flange of the rivet head to pop off while you are drilling, great. But if you get to a point where the rivet spins in the hole and the head won't fall off, then you have to use a small chisel to get under the rivet head and pry it up so you can rip the head off with pliers. This took me a considerable amount of time to do. (e) once the head of the rivet is removed, just tap with a small punch or nail and hammer to pop the body of the rivet into the door cavity.
-- John
Great write up John thank you as I’ll be trying to fix my driver front regulator this weekend on a 2004 c240.
Epc says correct window regulator part for my year/model is (203-720-15-46) so hopefully that’s correct as when I check genuinemercedesparts.com it says that part is incorrect and only for 2003 year (not sure why it would change 2003 to 2004 when everything on that model I thought was the same for those years)
Wanted to thank you again John for your great DIY write up on the window regulator fix. I did the work today and followed your steps to remove the driver front door panel (15 mins - took me 5 mins to figure out how to remove the door cable!!) and then peel the door lining to see what was going on with the window regulator and glass.
My 2004 c240 4matic wagon has the windows with 2 mounting holes on the bottom where the window regulator connects. as you can possibly see from these pictures, the left mount was missing the bolt and totally loose which was causing all the noise/grinding sounds!!! I put a new bolt in for the left window mount / regulator connect and then double checked the right window mount / regulator connect and found it was lose and tightened that up as well.
Before buttoning up the door, i tested the window and it worked PERFECTLY and no grinding nose so was all clear to put everything back together again and cost me ZERO to fix this aside from 1 hour of my time!!
No longer need to keep my suction cup in the glove box when i couldnt get the window to go up in the past - thanks to you John my repair here was easy and just followed your steps. THank you again my friend hugely helpful!!!!
Cheers John V
2004 C240 driver front window regulator fix Left side mounting bolt that was missing and causing the clicking sound!!! Right side window mount to the window regulator with bolt in place
Last edited by jvakos; 05-24-2019 at 08:01 PM.
Reason: missing text
hktran did the original DIY writeup for this on the other thread, but I am glad if my added comments were able to be of help
I see your car has the window glass with the mounting holes in it ... maybe the regular is a different part after all then.
Also glad to hear of situations where tightening a few bolts fixes the problem I think these bolts are supposed to have loc-tite on them to prevent them from vibrating loose over time. Did you buy the car new? If not, then possible that someone replaced the window in the past and loosened those bolts.
07-18-2016, 11:22 AM
