Hyper Grounding cables
http://g35driver.com/forums/showflat...sed&sb=5&part=
I was just wondering if any of you guys tried this one yet ... will it make any improvement on our W203?
Check this one out...
http://g35driver.com/forums/showflat...sed&sb=5&part=
I was just wondering if any of you guys tried this one yet ... will it make any improvement on our W203?
This thread is a really long thread about grounding cable stuff.
http://g35driver.com/forums/showflat...&sb=5&part=all
. I'm not looking for extra ponies but any extra ones would be nice.... as long as my lazy auto box shifts slightly faster I'll be more than happy.
But I don't think it will make any type of improvment. make the try, not so much money.
Best Regards,
Ruben.
P.D. Will be nice for auto to have the AMG shift program programed to the car.
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What exactly are the improvements your going to see....nothing. If there was any improvements to be had - it would come with this stuff already installed.....especially on a 'Benz. Even minor improvements the entire auto manufacturers industry scrambles to include in the cars. Next thing....someone will be claiming it improves the Fibre Optic signal quality throughout the systems resulting in huge HP gains. Bla...Bla.
I am a B.Sc. E.E. and I am tired of hearing the snake-oil salesmen say "it couldn't hurt".
I think people who sell this crap should be locked up!
I'm a skeptic too ... Its hard to believe that putting extra grounding cables will improve anything. I'd like to prove myself wrong tho. .... I'll use a 2000 civic as a guinea pig
One more thing - you would actually have to READ the book 

I have a better idea - get a book on popular electrical engineering. Would definitely cost you less and may save the poor Civic from abuse
One more thing - you would actually have to READ the book 

This maybe a stupid question...but how can I 'abuse' the civic by only adding afew grounding cables to it, the only 'big' thing I will do to the civic is to drill a single hole in the firewall...maybe not even that cos I can use the grounding points in the strut tower, battery or the front chasis of the car. Its no worse than replacing your stock air filter to aftermarket ones as these can be uninstalled easily...right?


The only true reason to do this would be because you are adding equipment to the vehicle such as an amplifier for the stereo. But you also have to think about how much the alternator can put out as well. If it can not truly supply the power then there is no point. Also bigger grounding will not gain you anything other than better power flow, which is not needed in the stock form of the auto. As for the comments of the body being one big ground, well it is but the body is attached to the engine with the power suppying device on it via runnber mounts. Electricity does not travel well through rubber engine mounts. By improving the engine ground and thus the alternator ground and the ground from the battery to the body as well as the positive line from the alternator to the battery and a bigger alternator will benifit those with large sound systems, or whatever other electronics with a higher current draw. If you are not adding anything to the vehicle that will draw more power then it is a waste of money and time. Oh and I am a BSEE as well, but spent a lot of time working in the car audio install world and improving grounding in vehicles with absurd amount of amplifers that needed it to stop the old lights from dimming.
WTF is that ****???? If I would have actually looked at the picture I guess I would have responded with a whole diferent line. This is posted on two forums with two diferent discussions and of course I was refering to someone going out and buying something like 4 gauge monster cable with a high strand count to improve upon the factory grounding, I did not see the pics in that link before. I do not think I scrolled down when I clicked it when this all started.....
having more grounds and placing them in strategic locations will technically help to complete the electrical circuit in the shortest possible paths and therefore time. and this is good. but i do believe the autommakers have done enough. what you guys might like to consider is adding a voltage stabilizer in parallel to the battery terminals. this would help in securing a regular voltage supply to the car's sensistive electronics. cheers, hanz.
having more grounds and placing them in strategic locations will technically help to complete the electrical circuit in the shortest possible paths and therefore time. and this is good. but i do believe the autommakers have done enough. what you guys might like to consider is adding a voltage stabilizer in parallel to the battery terminals. this would help in securing a regular voltage supply to the car's sensistive electronics. cheers, hanz.
All critical signal paths (including the ground circuits) are figured out by a team of engineers during the design of the car. No backyarder with some extra copper is going to improve on this stuff. All of the cars sensitive sensors (such as Oxygen, mass air flow, crank position, vacuum, etc.) are being measured by differential pairs running straight back to the ECU. Other signals (speed, brake signal transmission gear) are of a more digital nature, and thus pretty much unacceptable to ground noise.
Do you no any car (at any price) that contains this stuff - say from Rolls-Royce, Mercedes, Bentley, Jag, Ferrari....anything?
Reason....it's not necessary. Makes no difference.
ed
There comes a time when one must shoot the engineer and get on with production.

And yes, I'm an engineer (EE).
What bonding are you going to improve that will improve performance?
I'm amazed that everybody on here takes the attitude that the engineers knew best in this regard. You can make improvements on the bond issue but you will be faced with a tradeoff: weight versus performance versus cost. The minimal gains achieved by increasing the bond, lowering the resistance, do not always coincidence with the other 2. And in the real world the beancounters call most of the shots.
There comes a time when one must shoot the engineer and get on with production.

And yes, I'm an engineer (EE).
Last edited by vadim; May 2, 2004 at 03:50 AM.
Are you really an EE engineer? If you were, you would be able to recognize the bogus nature of this crap just by looking at the picture. And this doesn't even require a degree, really.
Meh, thats just my 2 cents. BTW, i'm not an engineer or anything, and i do not claim to have any idea how this could actually work, but the dyno results do not lie.










