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How does a fuel sender cause a non start condition?
No where in your thread did you have to put fuel in to make it start!
The tank has 2 large cavities. The one in the passenger side with a pump and a built in sender and on the driver side with just a sender.
Find a better repair shop, you're being ripped off with that quote. I found a pump with sender on Amazon for $58. It took me an hour to replace in my garage with basic tools. It helps if the tank is mostly empty. The filter with built in pressure regulator was an additional $25.
Thanks for all this information. I am going to replace the fuel pump myself. I notice there is an electrical connector issue with these fuel pumps. How do I ensure I choose the proper part?
UPDATE: I called the garage to complain about the faulty diagnosis and overpriced part. I spoke to a different guy who put me on hold while he spoke to the tech who had diagnosed the Fuel Sending Unit as the issue. He came back with some interesting information. Apparently the electrical connection on the Sending Unit is burned up, and so is the wire that comes into it. The tech was able to operate the fuel pump by manipulating this connection. So it would seem that the diagnosis is correct, and that I was receiving extremely spotty amounts of information from the previous phone call.
The guy I spoke to thinks that I need a wiring part in addition to the Fuel Sending Unit. He says that the bad connection is on the BODY SIDE. My question is: with all the wires and hoses coming out of the Sending Unit, do I need to order another wire? I feel as if the answer is no...Thanks in advance.
Like i said in my first post, check the connections..a left side sender comes with a loom, If its also burnt at the plug they need to make a plan there too, Maybe find a second hand plug and fit that to restore the connections
The wiring burned out because your fuel pump is drawing too much power and the fuse didn't do its job. Check the fuel pump fuse. I bet somebody put in a fuse that is too large for that position.
Fuse 4 is a 20A fuse as prescribed. I pinched the contacts inside the plug that shorted, as everything seemed intact, but the two sides were really spread apart. Everything went back together, and the car is running - YAY! Thank you all for all of your advice and help with this neophyte. Hopefully it stays running.
A question on the wiring harness which was shorted: do you think this looks like factory wiring? If not, this issue happened to the previous owner of the car...
That's not standard someone has done a previous repair, and its not caused from pump drawing too much current its from a bad contact at that terminal. There should be a MB number on the plug you can order it loose
And order all new terminals too
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