07 C230 power steering bleed
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Joined: Apr 2019
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2007 C230
07 C230 power steering bleed
Hey everybody, I am new here on the forum.
I did some research on this issue, and found some topics, but need a little more detail, in-depth info, and advice
I just replaced the engine in my 2007 c230. no issues there. now i am trying to bleed the power steering, and i am having the hardest time! i have bled many power steering systems before, and this one seems to be similar procedure. I filled the reservoir, then with the tires off the ground turned the wheel lock to lock like a million times! (during this process, the fluid would come up and over flow often - i am assuming that is because of lots of air trapped in the system) then i started the vehicle to let it idle and it growled pretty loudly. so i shut it off and repeated the process. i have basically done this 10 or 15 times, but every time i start it up, the power steering pump growls very loudly. not at first, but after like 3-5 seconds it will start to growl. i notice that while its running, there doesnt seem to be much foaming in the reservoir, but after i shut if off, then some foaming will appear in the reservoir. no matter what i do, i cant seem to get it to quiet down, i am worried that i need a new pump by now.
i even tried vacuum bleeding - putting vacuum pressure on the system while turning the wheel, but that didnt seem to get me anywhere
while its running, and i turn the wheel (which i havent done much, not while its running) the wheel is very jittery (like rocking/shaking back and forth sensation) as i am turning the wheel, so i am pretty sure that means that there is still air in there. or my pump is bad now
any suggestions/help/ideas would be much appreciated!
thank you!
I did some research on this issue, and found some topics, but need a little more detail, in-depth info, and advice
I just replaced the engine in my 2007 c230. no issues there. now i am trying to bleed the power steering, and i am having the hardest time! i have bled many power steering systems before, and this one seems to be similar procedure. I filled the reservoir, then with the tires off the ground turned the wheel lock to lock like a million times! (during this process, the fluid would come up and over flow often - i am assuming that is because of lots of air trapped in the system) then i started the vehicle to let it idle and it growled pretty loudly. so i shut it off and repeated the process. i have basically done this 10 or 15 times, but every time i start it up, the power steering pump growls very loudly. not at first, but after like 3-5 seconds it will start to growl. i notice that while its running, there doesnt seem to be much foaming in the reservoir, but after i shut if off, then some foaming will appear in the reservoir. no matter what i do, i cant seem to get it to quiet down, i am worried that i need a new pump by now.
i even tried vacuum bleeding - putting vacuum pressure on the system while turning the wheel, but that didnt seem to get me anywhere
while its running, and i turn the wheel (which i havent done much, not while its running) the wheel is very jittery (like rocking/shaking back and forth sensation) as i am turning the wheel, so i am pretty sure that means that there is still air in there. or my pump is bad now
any suggestions/help/ideas would be much appreciated!
thank you!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2007 C230
Ok thank you for the info.
is the way that i have described it not correct? it is what mitchell said.
when i start this car, the power steering fluid growls, but no bubbles in the reservoir. then when you shut it off, it fills up with bubbly fluid. sound like a failing power steering pump? it also has the shudder when you turn the wheel....
Also, i disconnected the return after the cooler, and put clear hose on it, and turned the wheel back and forth and fluid came out with decent flow. did this many times, basically bled the system this way. hooked it back up and still have the same issue
is the way that i have described it not correct? it is what mitchell said.
when i start this car, the power steering fluid growls, but no bubbles in the reservoir. then when you shut it off, it fills up with bubbly fluid. sound like a failing power steering pump? it also has the shudder when you turn the wheel....
Also, i disconnected the return after the cooler, and put clear hose on it, and turned the wheel back and forth and fluid came out with decent flow. did this many times, basically bled the system this way. hooked it back up and still have the same issue
Last edited by ajparry89; Apr 25, 2019 at 07:27 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 571
Likes: 92
From: New England! :-)
2005 C230K Sport Coupe
Attached are the WIS instructions to bleed a W203.
You may have a bad pump, bad connection, or a lot of air in the system.
You, or a mechanic, have to figure that out. No way for someone else on the InterWeb to know.
Good Luck.
You may have a bad pump, bad connection, or a lot of air in the system.
You, or a mechanic, have to figure that out. No way for someone else on the InterWeb to know.
Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 3
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2007 C230
thank you for the info!
that is what Mitchell said, and that is the procedure that I have followed. I wonder if i have a bad pump at this point. I get no air bubbles when i simply turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off.
but what i wonder about those instructions is...they mention air getting into the system that will be extremely difficult to remove (if you start the engine - which I didnt, not out of proper order). but isnt that the reason you are bleeding the system? because something was replaced or disconnected and now there IS air in the system? is there some sort of additional procedure for getting that 'difficult' air out? i mean if you replaced the pump (which i essentially did) or lines or the rack and pinion, then there would be lots of air in it, no? just interesting how they add that part in there, as if your suddenly screwed and there is no way out of it haha.
that is what Mitchell said, and that is the procedure that I have followed. I wonder if i have a bad pump at this point. I get no air bubbles when i simply turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off.
but what i wonder about those instructions is...they mention air getting into the system that will be extremely difficult to remove (if you start the engine - which I didnt, not out of proper order). but isnt that the reason you are bleeding the system? because something was replaced or disconnected and now there IS air in the system? is there some sort of additional procedure for getting that 'difficult' air out? i mean if you replaced the pump (which i essentially did) or lines or the rack and pinion, then there would be lots of air in it, no? just interesting how they add that part in there, as if your suddenly screwed and there is no way out of it haha.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 862
Likes: 28
2010 e550 coupe
thank you for the info!
that is what Mitchell said, and that is the procedure that I have followed. I wonder if i have a bad pump at this point. I get no air bubbles when i simply turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off.
but what i wonder about those instructions is...they mention air getting into the system that will be extremely difficult to remove (if you start the engine - which I didnt, not out of proper order). but isnt that the reason you are bleeding the system? because something was replaced or disconnected and now there IS air in the system? is there some sort of additional procedure for getting that 'difficult' air out? i mean if you replaced the pump (which i essentially did) or lines or the rack and pinion, then there would be lots of air in it, no? just interesting how they add that part in there, as if your suddenly screwed and there is no way out of it haha.
that is what Mitchell said, and that is the procedure that I have followed. I wonder if i have a bad pump at this point. I get no air bubbles when i simply turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off.
but what i wonder about those instructions is...they mention air getting into the system that will be extremely difficult to remove (if you start the engine - which I didnt, not out of proper order). but isnt that the reason you are bleeding the system? because something was replaced or disconnected and now there IS air in the system? is there some sort of additional procedure for getting that 'difficult' air out? i mean if you replaced the pump (which i essentially did) or lines or the rack and pinion, then there would be lots of air in it, no? just interesting how they add that part in there, as if your suddenly screwed and there is no way out of it haha.
Member
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 121
Likes: 22
From: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
C230K M271 CL203 2003 model
Bleeding should be pretty straight forward, just look for bubbles/ frothing in the reservoir, once that clears you are good to go!..
Note that some parts of the steering system are under high vacuum, and it is easy for it to suck air in from a hose connection that is not tight enough.. so it's important to ensure all connections are tight, and no bubbles are evident in the reservoir with the engine running..
Note that some parts of the steering system are under high vacuum, and it is easy for it to suck air in from a hose connection that is not tight enough.. so it's important to ensure all connections are tight, and no bubbles are evident in the reservoir with the engine running..
