I am experiencing the problem of bypass flap staying open, even under throttle. Supercharger does not disengage - even with all power removed, I cannot turn pulley with my hand - possibly seized clutch? I am not sure of the exact models of the engine and supercharger, though. I believe it should be the M111.955 2.0L engine, and the M45 Eaton supercharger. Is it possible to confirm this via the VIN number?

2002 W203 c200K 203k on the clock
VIN: WDC2030452R064687 (I am in South Africa)

Btw: I tried the 're-learning' process on the bypass flap, and though it goes through the steps, it doesn't fix the problem. The flap is also slow to open after I closed it with my fingers.

 

Dealer would have all of that information. Unless someone has access to the MB EPC here, not sure if anyone would be able to confirm the information. You'd have some M111 variant for sure.

 

Thank you for your reply, slammer. I will contact the dealers tomorrow.

In the meantime, I will ask this: I got the following information from a website (https://marshalinstrument.ru/en/pdd-...i-dopusk-na/):

AND:
Does the above mean that the supercharger will always turn, and only the bypass valve will regulate boost?

 

Well, I got a successful VIN lookup on https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check...2030452R064687. Engine is indeed 111955, but also has a M111 E20 EVO designation. So, I guess the question in my previous post remains: what does mean? Should I be able to turn the supercharger snout freely with my hand if all power to the s/c is removed?

 

yes, you can spin it with hand. The M45 needs some maintenance like oil change and coupler replacement. If you rock the pulley and feel and hear some backlash, the internal coupler is worn. It makes also a clunking noise on idle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-super...N/143099612022
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-GM-...2/154309657214

Regarding the recirculation flap, it can be cleaned if you get a stay-open condition with power loss. Remove the flap, open the plastic cover, remove the motor (two bolts) and clean and oil the motor bearings. Afterwards the spring loaded flap must open very very fast when you close it with your finger and release it.

 

Thank you, 123 (hope you don't mind me using your nickname )

first: sc sounds fine, I don't think there is any problem.
Flap is definitely sticky like hell, will have to operate as per your suggestion.

But all this will have to wait, since I believe it developed as symptom of all the other problems:
p0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
p0010 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction, Hot-film mass-air sensor ME-SFI – fault code description.
p0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
p0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
p0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

As I go along, that list only gets longer - I don't really know what I am doing, and thanks to cvd, I don't even have a cent to buy a new magnet cam sensor (which is leaking like hell, and probably the cause of most of my problems)

 

ok, lets try to start, I have also only Torque on my phone, its probably not enough, especially for ignition problems (I have also some)

First, take a look if you have the oil stop cable installed. Its connected at the camshaft magnet. -> if not, it would explain many of your problems
2. clean the recirculation flap and recalibrate it. Recalibration: delete all error codes, ignition on and just wait 50s. The flap must close at around 45s with ignition on, you can watch it when you open the air filter.
attached a video, before and after cleaning of the flap electric motor
3. clean the connectors at the camshaft position sensor from the oil, please use alcohol and not brake cleaner (brake cleaner can affect the rubber gasket), try to find out if the oil comes through the cable or from the sensor
4. clean the connectors at the ECU. The connector on the left are the ignition cables, if you see oil, again clean with alcohol.
Until now its almost 0$

The vid is in German (min 20+), but you can see what to do if you don't have the oil stop cable installed. You should inspect the O2 Sensor connector and if there is oil, solder the cable in addition. The engine is the M271 (M111 has only one camshaft magnet) but the problem is the same.

 

Hey, 123, I am not sure about the stop cable at all. I know that the first connector from the camshaft magnet was full of oil, but the O2 sensor after the cat-convertor was not. ECU connectors also no oil. Still have to check the pre-catconverter, but I have a rubbish lil carjack, so I mostly have to balance the car on my very adequate stomach to see what I am doing down there,
2 I have gone through the flap reset process quite a few times:Flap closed at expected 40 seconds or so.Movement is very slow though. I am not sure that I deleted all error codes, etc though. SO just be patient with me please, and I will provide a video on the whole process.
3 I have cleaned the connectors at the camshaft position sensor, and I am quite sure that the oil is coming from the sensor
4 I can help with a pic of the ECU connectors at least:



This was before I sprayed it with contact kleener, so I reckon ECU side looks quite safe for the moment

I don't even have a phone to take pictures with, so I will have to wait till about 5:30 so that my wife can take pictures/video of the whole process

My suspicion is that the car was overfilled with oil - you know I am so used to just looking on the dashboard and see a reading of "full", that if came as a total shock to me to find the dipstick covered in oil right, and up to the handle - way way past the MAX indicator. I belief that the overfill was the cause of many leaks - not sure about the cam sensor - but everytime I had to clean the MAF, it had some oil in it and eventually the MAF just had enough.

Question is: does the MAF not control the functioning of the sc flap? Meaning unhappy MAF -> unhappy flap?

Thank you for your help and interest, 123. you are the first person to come to me with a plan of action!

 

Pictures are always helpful. The first sensor witch catches oil from the camshaft magnet is the Coolant Temp Sensor right below the Magnet. If its full of oil, you have some oil inside the cables, but that does not mean you have to do something.
But when you have O2 error codes, and so on, one must look at it. If the Camshaft Sensor is broken, you will have also some hesitation during start, because it detects when Cyl 1 is TDC, I'm not so sure it it has much more functions. Sooner or later you will have to replace it. The China ebay stuff can work.

I have seen other picture from the ECU with blue and brown stuff at the connector? I know when the water drain from the plastic part above the fuse box is clogged, water can go inside the box.

The MAF is always a bit oily, it comes from the breather hose on top of the valve cover all trough the supercharger (together with some supercharger oil) nbd. If car is in limb mode because of the MAF, the recirc flap will stay open, right. If you have seen my video, the flap must be fast, during calibration it closes within 0.2 sec.

If you delete the errors, how fast do they come back?

Your codes comes from total different parts, could be a ground connector problem. Try to find a suspicious ground connector. The negativ cable is spliced in the cabling.

 

Uhm, 123, I have to figure out that extra connector in the ECU bay before I can put it back and video the reset process on the flap.

 

Here is a view of the cam sensor that sits on top of valve cover (red circle in pic2):




The connector that plugs into that sensor, as well as the connector on the sensor itself, is totally dry - not even a hint of residue. BUT, I have to state that I cannot remember the condition before I applied electric kleen. And the car hasn't been started for a few days now.

 

Front of engine:
Residue on finger comes from directly below the sensor


No residue on finger after rubbing inside connector:


The sensor connectors are dry on both sides, as is the connection directly below my hand against left edge of pic. But, in this case, I do remember oil inside the connectors - especially the direct sensor connector - before cleaning.

 

I have only checked O2 sensor 1 on bank 1, but there is no trace of oil. Sorry, really hard to get in there with little jack, and big stomach
p0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

I have made a little video of me opening and closing sc flap with my fingers (no ECU, no power), but how the heck do I get it posted?

And then, silly question, but that loose ground connection beneath the ECU... it couldn't perhaps be a common cause to many of my problems?

 

Hehe, ok, I am a bit slow. Little video attached in zip file.

123, I want to thank you for all your advice and your patience.

 

Are you referring to this pic? The green at the edges?



I'm sorry, I'm not sure which pic you are referring too. It is certainly possible that there was some water residue on top of the ECU cover - at that stage I simply did not know what to look out for: oil/water was just there to be cleaned. Never thought to be looking for cause and damage

 

I don't have clear picture, but the connection on the coolant sensor side is bad: rubber/plastic has perished, and it is exposed to oil and rubbish.

From memory... about 5 mins.

 

Ouch... I just discover a rat's nest below the brake reservoir and ECU harness... well, the good news is probably that it explains this:


The nest is below the brake fluid reservoir, against the silver firewall and the wiring harness cover. About where the yellow arrow starts, but at this moment I reckon it won't make a difference whether I am very precise .
Will try to take a pic with my wife's phone tomorrow, and then start taking things apart, yeehaw!

 

Despite you don't have an oil stop cable, your leakage is no so bad. I soldered the wires instead of the oil stop cable, works also.

Many sensors have the same ground connection, if you have problems with parts not really connected, this can be the culprit. Attached the cable plan, these 5 sensors have the same ground connection, its somewhere in the fuse box

The camshaft sensor can get some cracks, you should be able to see some.

The flap is definitely too slow, you should open it an clean/lube the bearings. Its 1h work.

If the error codes come back so fast, it seen not to be driving condition related.

I have seen the extra connector, but I have no idea what it is for.

I would not open the ECU now.

 

Thank you, 123, that helps a lot. But speaking of common sensor ground, I think I will have to search very carefully for wiring problems caused by rat, after seeing this:

Blue arrow points to ratnest on bottom, red circle is connector to front strut tower. And that nest is way too close to ECU fusebox for comfort...


Below a closer view at nest and connector:


And below, connector wiring zoomed in:


So, I guess start with visual inspection, but then also checking pin by pin?

 

yes, visual inspection and step by step repair. Solder the wires from the camshaft magnet. And if you have time clean the flap. A slow flap throws P0410 code and engine has no boost. Take a look at the ignition coils, they get fine cracks when they age and spark voltage drop.
In general it's a good engine

 

Probably a stupid question, but I remember my father used to look in the dark for little sparks on spark plug cables to see if they are arcing, or causing shorts. Any chance that this will still be possible with more modern ignition coils?

 

It's 12V to the coils, not enough to see sparks anymore.

 

Ok, thank you!