Cranks no start
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
Cranks no start
Hello new here, I’m trying to help my father get his 2002 C240 back on the road. So he started the car this pst weekend and said it drove fine the whole day. He went back to park the car on the drive way and would not crank over . I noticed there was no power going to the fuel pump when key is turned on engine off. No priming noise nothing. Then I checked the shrader valve and maybe a drop of gas that’s it nothing more then a tiny drop . So I went and today replaced the fuel pump with an Amazon brand Abigail and still no start but cranks. Then I checked the fuel pump relay and it was kinda orange rust on it. Replaced the relay and the engine fired right up and idled for about 5 min and the died and **** down. Tried to start it back up same problem cranks no start but with new relay for fuel pump now you can constantly here the pump turn on and prime. The read other posts the system has to be de pressurized? I didn’t open the fuel tank like others suggested because there was no fuel coming out of the shrader valve . Do I need to wait a day and open the gas cap? Could it be fuel filter ? My father said it hasn’t been replaced in more than 10-14 years and has about 101k . So I’m thinking fuel filter the CSP sensor? No check engine light or faulty codes. Thanks all if you ha e an suggestions.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Verify that fuel is pressurizing the rail. Are you sure that it's priming? Fuel should be shooting out of the schrader valve if the system is working. I know you can hear it running, but I would physically check.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
Verify that fuel is pressurizing the rail. Are you sure that it's priming? Fuel should be shooting out of the schrader valve if the system is working. I know you can hear it running, but I would physically check.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Hi Slammer, yes when I took the original pump out it was pretty smooth I thought . The black pipe or hose at the bottom of fuel pump came right out with an attachment piece beige adapter piece which fit perfectly in the new aftermarket pump . So now with the back seat still removed and fuel pump still exposed and visible I can physically see gas moving around and hear the pump priming a bit before it stops. I then check the shrader valve and get one drop of fuel. Keep in mind before I did anything for my fathers car he reported it was driving perfect. Then when he tried to start it would just crank but no start. I came over and heard fuel pump not priming no power. Replaced fuel pump still no start. Replaced fuel pump relay with autozone duralast brand amd the c240 started right up and died after about 5 minutes of stand still idling . When that happen I forgot to mention and don’t know if it has anything do with it dying is that the black plastic. Ring wasn’t right enough and found fuel spewing out from the top . I cleaned it up and rechecked the seal was seated correctly and RE tightened everything and still no start. I don’t thing my dads ever had the fuel filter changed . Can a bad crankshaft position sensor cause any of the fuel systems no to work? My thing is it started right up when I replaced the fuel pump relay which the original had lot of what looked to be orange corrosion . So this is where I’m at. I ordered new fuel filter and CPS from pelican parts . I also made sure to line up the arrow when installing the fuel pump. Do you think I should take new fuel pump out and check connections? Also when I replaced the fuel pump my dads car had a full tank of gas. Let me know if I’m missing anything . Thanks for all the help!! Just waiting on parts .
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
That didn't really answer my question. When you crank the car now, does fuel shoot out of the schrader valve? You mentioned you hear the pump priming and moving the fuel, yet you only get a drop out of the schrader. If the fuel delivery system was working properly, there would be a whole lot more than just 1 drop.
Good idea to change the fuel filter too if that has never been done before.
Good idea to change the fuel filter too if that has never been done before.
Last edited by slammer111; Apr 28, 2021 at 12:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
Verify that fuel is pressurizing the rail. Are you sure that it's priming? Fuel should be shooting out of the schrader valve if the system is working. I know you can hear it running, but I would physically check.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
slammer my dad sent me this pic showing the tank almost full but now the orange light on fuel meter is on? Could fuel sender sided on driver side need to be replaced too? Thanks
Reason for orange light coming on after replacing fuel pump and fuel pump relay still cranks no start no fuel coming from shrader valve. Car did start right up after replacing fuel pump relay for 5 min approx before engine shutting off.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
Verify that fuel is pressurizing the rail. Are you sure that it's priming? Fuel should be shooting out of the schrader valve if the system is working. I know you can hear it running, but I would physically check.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
Are you sure you reattached all hoses properly? Some of those lines were a real pain to reattach. Took quite a bit of force and wobbling before they "clicked" into place.
That didn't really answer my question. When you crank the car now, does fuel shoot out of the schrader valve? You mentioned you hear the pump priming and moving the fuel, yet you only get a drop out of the schrader. If the fuel delivery system was working properly, there would be a whole lot more than just 1 drop.
Good idea to change the fuel filter too if that has never been done before.
Good idea to change the fuel filter too if that has never been done before.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
No point throwing random parts at the car until the failed component is identified.
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
Last edited by slammer111; Apr 28, 2021 at 01:40 PM.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
No point throwing random parts at the car until the failed component is identified.
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
No point throwing random parts at the car until the failed component is identified.
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
No point throwing random parts at the car until the failed component is identified.
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
The relay is easy to check. There are actually several identical ones in there somewhere. Just swap 2 identical relays if in doubt. Of course this brings up another problem. Why was the relay rusty? Do you have a water leak by the fuse box? In the meantime, the rust can be rubbed off the terminals with some emery paper or steel wool.
I notice your SRS light is on as well. All the dash lights turn on as a test before the car cranks. So I would ignore this for now.
To be honest I'm leaning towards a defective fuel pump. Personally I would only go OEM (ie MB brand brand) or a reputable brand such as Bosch. Who makes Abigail? Never heard of that brand in my life.
General rule of thumb for any repair - if something goes wrong, look at the very last thing you touched. In this case it was the fuel pump. The fact that the car ran great for 5 minutes is further proof to me. If something else was the problem, the car would've not started even if the pump was replaced.
As you are new to the forum, I will mention that there are a lot of aftermarket parts out there that are basically garbage. Many of us here on the forum have learned this the hard way. Amazon and eBay are not the place to buy automotive parts unless it's for something non critical such as bulbs or trim pieces. Pay the extra money for quality components, or be prepared to spend hours troubleshooting like this.
While we're on this topic, do not buy your fuel filter from Amazon or eBay either. Even if you get a name brand part, there is no assurance that the parts aren't fake. This is a very real problem.
Reputable suppliers such as RM European and FCP are the way to go. Even then I would avoid the crap non reputable brands, though both of the sites above are generally pretty good at not stocking the garbage brands.
As you are learning right now, "do it right or do it twice".
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
The electrical connection can get wet with gasoline. That is not an issue at all, or they wouldn't have put the connector inside the tank. 
No point opening up the tank again. Test the fuel flow at the schrader valve. You'll have your answer.
If the fuel filter happened to clog right as you replaced your fuel pump, that would be quite the coincidence.
No point opening up the tank again. Test the fuel flow at the schrader valve. You'll have your answer.
If the fuel filter happened to clog right as you replaced your fuel pump, that would be quite the coincidence.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
The electrical connection can get wet with gasoline. That is not an issue at all, or they wouldn't have put the connector inside the tank.
No point opening up the tank again. Test the fuel flow at the schrader valve. You'll have your answer.
If the fuel filter happened to clog right as you replaced your fuel pump, that would be quite the coincidence.
No point opening up the tank again. Test the fuel flow at the schrader valve. You'll have your answer.
If the fuel filter happened to clog right as you replaced your fuel pump, that would be quite the coincidence.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
No worries. Always glad to help another fellow member in keeping money away from the stealers. 
In any case, can you post the repair and the result. The information will be useful for others as well.
Good luck with the repair.
In any case, can you post the repair and the result. The information will be useful for others as well.
Good luck with the repair.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Irvine , Ca
2002 C240
slammer check it out the original filter which is probably 19 years old never replaced my father said.
most came out really thick like slush mud sandy .
