2002 C320 Sedan - Front swaybar bushings and brake pads
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From: Northern VA - US
02' C320 Sedan
2002 C320 Sedan - Front swaybar bushings and brake pads
How difficult is it to replace the bushings? I had to have the front end links done but needed these as well. I hate to pay $200 for a few bolts of work if I can put it on ramps and have it done in an hour or so.
What's the recommended brake pads for these cars, OEM, Akebono ceramic? Plan on keeping the OEM rotors on there for the time being.
What's the recommended brake pads for these cars, OEM, Akebono ceramic? Plan on keeping the OEM rotors on there for the time being.
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Depends on the sway bar. There are 2 versions I know of for the stock non-AMG configuration. One may be superseded so hopefully this information is still current.
One version has the rubber bushings molded directly into the sway bar. That one cannot be replaced, but the bushings also don't exactly wear out since there are no moving parts. I think this is the newer version.
The other version (separate bushing) is really easy if it's anything like the rear bar. The brackets are the same (2 brackets, each with 2 screws), accessible as soon as you remove the underbody panel. I'm pretty sure the bushings have a cut in them so that they can be opened up and popped around the sway bar.
FYI there are several variants of the W203 sway bars available, both front and rear. Give the VIN to your dealer if you want parts that match or update the original configuration.
If you want to tighten up the suspension or change the handling characteristics, now would be the time to look into the other variants. The sway bars themselves aren't terribly expensive. As an example, the C32AMG front and rear bars (I have this installed) make the car handle a lot better as well as reduce the understeer, but require a slight modification and reduce the ride comfort over uneven bumps.
One version has the rubber bushings molded directly into the sway bar. That one cannot be replaced, but the bushings also don't exactly wear out since there are no moving parts. I think this is the newer version.
The other version (separate bushing) is really easy if it's anything like the rear bar. The brackets are the same (2 brackets, each with 2 screws), accessible as soon as you remove the underbody panel. I'm pretty sure the bushings have a cut in them so that they can be opened up and popped around the sway bar.
FYI there are several variants of the W203 sway bars available, both front and rear. Give the VIN to your dealer if you want parts that match or update the original configuration.
If you want to tighten up the suspension or change the handling characteristics, now would be the time to look into the other variants. The sway bars themselves aren't terribly expensive. As an example, the C32AMG front and rear bars (I have this installed) make the car handle a lot better as well as reduce the understeer, but require a slight modification and reduce the ride comfort over uneven bumps.
Last edited by slammer111; Dec 8, 2021 at 12:09 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 41
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From: Northern VA - US
02' C320 Sedan
Yeah these are the replaceable bushing type; do I need any special tools for the bolts; if I buy a E12 reverse torx ??? socket set it'll be for the long haul for Mercedes ownership since I think it's on MB that uses a lot of them. And where should I look for a set, I might even out paying to have them done by the time I get a set, but would have them for next time too...... Check these bracket bolts:
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
If you plan on keeping the car, get a full set of external torx (e-torx) socket bits. I've seen E8 to E14 on this car, and those are only the ones I know of. 90% of the engine screws are E10 for example. I use that socket more than anything else on the car.
There are also hex screws everywhere. For example, the front wheel fender liners use 10mm, the underbody cover screws (which you'll need to remove to get to the front sway bar) are 8mm, and if you ever do your front brake discs you'll need 16mm (or was it 18mm?) for the brackets. The wheel lugs are 17mm. I'd recommend getting 1-2 sets, ranging from 6mm to 18mm.
Also get a good torx socket and screwdriver set. The car uses everything from T9 to T60 (not sure if the T60 applies to your car as it is used for the belt tensioner on the I4 engine). Then there is the occasional security torx bit as well which requires its own separate set. Non security Torx bits can handle higher torques, so it's recommended to get 2 separate sets and not cheap out. I know I use T20 and T25 screwdrivers (sockets are too short) everywhere inside the cabin.
I assume you have a good set of torque wrenches, in all 3 sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"). These are a must have for any DIY mechanic. A torque wrench and the the correct bit are all you'll need for the sway bar bracket.
Welcome to the dark side.
There are also hex screws everywhere. For example, the front wheel fender liners use 10mm, the underbody cover screws (which you'll need to remove to get to the front sway bar) are 8mm, and if you ever do your front brake discs you'll need 16mm (or was it 18mm?) for the brackets. The wheel lugs are 17mm. I'd recommend getting 1-2 sets, ranging from 6mm to 18mm.
Also get a good torx socket and screwdriver set. The car uses everything from T9 to T60 (not sure if the T60 applies to your car as it is used for the belt tensioner on the I4 engine). Then there is the occasional security torx bit as well which requires its own separate set. Non security Torx bits can handle higher torques, so it's recommended to get 2 separate sets and not cheap out. I know I use T20 and T25 screwdrivers (sockets are too short) everywhere inside the cabin.
I assume you have a good set of torque wrenches, in all 3 sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"). These are a must have for any DIY mechanic. A torque wrench and the the correct bit are all you'll need for the sway bar bracket.
Welcome to the dark side.
Last edited by slammer111; Dec 8, 2021 at 02:52 PM.
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
As for the front brake pads, I've tried a bunch of random brands. MB, EBC, Bosch to name a few. To be honest I can't really tell the difference between them, other than the amount of dust they make. Just make sure you get the same friction rating. Anything between FF and GG will do the job.
As for special tools, you'll need a brake pad spreader (something like a Lisle 24400, but any cheapo variant from your local store will work). A c-clamp will work too, but this tool makes it much easier for a few bucks.
A few tips:
Race pads aren't suitable for the street. They are designed for higher operating temperatures, and will be awful in the city. Not to mention they wear much faster.
Grey pads create less visible dust. Most brands are pretty much black though. I heard Akebono pads are lighter in colour and dust less, but can't confirm.
Drill out the pad sensor hole and move it closer to the backing plate. The OEM hole location is way too conservative. The first time I tripped the sensor, I probably had 6mm pad left. Lesson learned. Or just tie the sensor off with a piece of wire and visually check the brakes every few months instead. Saves the cost of the sensor as well as premature pad replacement. I just take a quick look whenever I swap wheels, which is twice a year. The pads can be also be seen through the spokes obviously.
Rule of thumb for these cars from my SA - 2 sets of pads for every set of discs. Applies to both front and rear. I don't even bother measuring the discs anymore.
As for special tools, you'll need a brake pad spreader (something like a Lisle 24400, but any cheapo variant from your local store will work). A c-clamp will work too, but this tool makes it much easier for a few bucks.
A few tips:
Race pads aren't suitable for the street. They are designed for higher operating temperatures, and will be awful in the city. Not to mention they wear much faster.
Grey pads create less visible dust. Most brands are pretty much black though. I heard Akebono pads are lighter in colour and dust less, but can't confirm.
Drill out the pad sensor hole and move it closer to the backing plate. The OEM hole location is way too conservative. The first time I tripped the sensor, I probably had 6mm pad left. Lesson learned. Or just tie the sensor off with a piece of wire and visually check the brakes every few months instead. Saves the cost of the sensor as well as premature pad replacement. I just take a quick look whenever I swap wheels, which is twice a year. The pads can be also be seen through the spokes obviously.
Rule of thumb for these cars from my SA - 2 sets of pads for every set of discs. Applies to both front and rear. I don't even bother measuring the discs anymore.
Last edited by slammer111; Dec 9, 2021 at 11:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Northern VA - US
02' C320 Sedan
As for the front brake pads, I've tried a bunch of random brands. MB, EBC, Bosch to name a few. To be honest I can't really tell the difference between them, other than the amount of dust they make. Just make sure you get the same friction rating. Anything between FF and GG will do the job.
As for special tools, you'll need a disc brake pad (something like a Lisle 24400, but any cheapo variant from your local store will work). A c-clamp will work too, but this tool makes it much easier for a few bucks.
A few tips:
Race pads aren't suitable for the street. They are designed for higher operating temperatures, and will be awful in the city. Not to mention they wear much faster.
Grey pads create less visible dust. Most brands are pretty much black though. I heard Akebono pads are lighter in colour and dust less, but can't confirm.
Drill out the pad sensor hole and move it closer to the backing plate. The OEM hole location is way too conservative. The first time I tripped the sensor, I probably had 6mm pad left. Lesson learned. Or just tie the sensor off with a piece of wire and visually check the brakes every few months instead. Saves the cost of the sensor as well as premature pad replacement. I just take a quick look whenever I swap tires, which is twice a year.
Rule of thumb for these cars from my SA - 2 sets of pads for every set of discs. I don't even bother measuring my discs anymore.
As for special tools, you'll need a disc brake pad (something like a Lisle 24400, but any cheapo variant from your local store will work). A c-clamp will work too, but this tool makes it much easier for a few bucks.
A few tips:
Race pads aren't suitable for the street. They are designed for higher operating temperatures, and will be awful in the city. Not to mention they wear much faster.
Grey pads create less visible dust. Most brands are pretty much black though. I heard Akebono pads are lighter in colour and dust less, but can't confirm.
Drill out the pad sensor hole and move it closer to the backing plate. The OEM hole location is way too conservative. The first time I tripped the sensor, I probably had 6mm pad left. Lesson learned. Or just tie the sensor off with a piece of wire and visually check the brakes every few months instead. Saves the cost of the sensor as well as premature pad replacement. I just take a quick look whenever I swap tires, which is twice a year.
Rule of thumb for these cars from my SA - 2 sets of pads for every set of discs. I don't even bother measuring my discs anymore.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Can't go wrong with Akebonos. Heard good things about them. Would be nice to hear if they're any good. 
Your car only has 1 sensor, on the inner pad of the front R wheel. I tied mine to the cable using one of those wire ties from the candy section of the supermarket. Not sure if a nylon zip tie can handle the heat there.
Your car only has 1 sensor, on the inner pad of the front R wheel. I tied mine to the cable using one of those wire ties from the candy section of the supermarket. Not sure if a nylon zip tie can handle the heat there.
