JmanTaylor71

My Wife's 05 manual Kompressor sedan is not starting. I have read just about every "no" start thread here and can't find my exact issue or solution.
1) Odd battery drain started a few months ago and finally killed the battery. After installing a new battery, nothing happens in the start position.
2) I think the battery drain was coming from the stereo. Found this while pulling the ignition module for testing. With the key out and the radio being off all day the radio was very warm to the touch. I pulled it and the drain seems to have abated.
3) I can jump the starter relay and the starter cranks but does not fire up. So starter seems ok.
4) Had the ignition switch and keys tested and they came back fine.
5) Pulled both SAM units and checked all wiring. No signs of corrosion.
6) Brake lights work (some posts talked about engine not starting if brake lights did not work)
7) Everything else in the car works (with the exception of the driver side mirror turn signal that is burned out, the clicking air actuator behind the dash and the alarm under the passenger wheel well that I disconnected years ago)
8) Took a look at the Can bus on the drivers side. Seems ok to me. No corrosion or loose wires that I could find.
9) Purchased an ok scan tool that produced the attached report. However, I am not adept at interpreting these reports and could use some direction. Currently downloading an update to the Benz Diagnosis. If tomorrow's report shows anything different after the update I will post it here.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

slammer111

Do you have power seats? That is a known flaw. I think this was only a problem on the earlier year cars though.

Different modules (including the radio I imaigne) draw some juice for a few seconds or minutes after the car is off. Modern car electronics often do not "sleep" immediately as soon as you pull out the key. This is by design. To see how much juice a circuit is drawing, you'll often have to wait 5+ minutes (the dealer SA told me 30 minutes) to see what the car actually draws when sleeping.

How old is the battery? Each drain weakens the load carrying capacity. Also, car batteries do suddenly die. They'll work right now, but not 10 minutes later.

JmanTaylor71

Hi Slammer.
Yes on the Power seats. Not really worried about that battery drain any longer. Main concern is no start, no crank with a full battery, good ECM, EIS.

After the old battery died, I put the new on on a trickle charger.
Radio in - constant drain and trickle charger never shuts off.
Radio out - battery tops up and trickle charger only turns on occasionally. I have a new radio to install so I am not really worried about it.

I am assuming that since the drain killed the old battery, it also may have killed some component I have yet to discover like the ECU.
As stated above, key unlocks and turns and the ECM seems ok and the EIS/ignition switch checked out ok.

KevinH2000

Have you checked the switch on the clutch?

Blubbachub

There might be an issue with the steering lock module in the steering wheel, it shows a CAN communication failure. I think that is linked with the immobilizer and if they go bad your car will not start (they are married to your vin/ecu and other modules) sometimes parasitic draw problems on these cars can cause module failures. They are super sensitive to having low voltage for extended periods of time. does the fuel pump have power/build pressure with key in on position?

JmanTaylor71

KevinH2000
I have not! Good suggestion. I will do that today.

JmanTaylor71

Blubbachub
I do not think the FP runs when key is on. I can turn the key on and jump the starter relay which cranks but it does not start. Seems like either a no fuel (Fuel Pump or Injectors) or no spark issue.
I will test the Fuel Pump Relay today. I should get power there if the key is on. I think that is relay A and fuse 4 on the rear SAM.
Steering Lock Module unlocks with the key. Could it still be bad?

Blubbachub

Start with checking the rear sam. I think they are pretty notorious for having problems and they supply the power to the fuel pump if I remember right. I'm not sure if a faulty steering lock module will let you turn steering wheel with key in the on position. This all sounds like either a rear sam issue or an immobilizer issue so far.

JmanTaylor71

Update (after a long period out of town)
replaced rear sam - no start
replaced front sam - no start
jumped clutch button - no start
tried steering lock emulator - still no start
checked all fuses, relays, etc....
ignition switch sent in for tested, all ok
Can still jump the starter relay and starter cracks but no start (probably whatever is causing no start is also causing no fuel pump start)