C230 Sport Coup

Mods, hope you can make this a sticky.
They have this in another car forum I'm in and its fun to post what you do to your car as time goes by.
So for me, OK all I did today was vacuum but quite recently replaced the thermostat! Was stuck open.
In the past 6 months I've refreshed the AC (not to make the car cold but to dry the air and defog windows!)
Replaced shift mechanism (ESM) boot and knob, had steering wheel refinished (now stuck with SRS error) New starter. trans service, new front AMG brakes, repack front wheel bearings, new front tires (Sumitomo's tread seperated just sitting parked, only a few years old!). A while before that, new alternator, and replaced supercharger with 79K mile unit ,new belt and pullies

Who's next?

TheRotaryFox

I took apart my center console and threw out that little plastic bin under the radio.
it was cracking and just looked plain awful.
I ordered a water pump and gasket from FCP Euro, so maybe I can have the coupe running next week.
After that, it's off to a shop to get the clutch swapped.

BF_JC230

Added air to my front right and reset TPMS.

112233

The drivers door needed a tiny bit more force to close than the passenger door, so I adjusted the latch at the B-column down. It wasn't even one millimeter to push it down. Bolts at the latch torqued with 28 Nm.

C230 Sport Coup

What brand? I bought the Meyle 1st and turned out to be made in China and sent it back.
Then I ordered the Graf. I was concerned with the machining on it...but I didn't have much choice, parts company said it was
good and dealer one is no longer available...we'll see. 55K miles on it now, but original lasted 200K. Check out this photo. Check out the gap there...wish I'd taken pic of old one, definately not like this. Do me a favor, post a photo of yours when you get it. Looks like you have same engine as me,

rwb001

I replaced my temp sender and put gas in it. What a joyful time.

TheRotaryFox

I ordered a Graf from FCP Euro since they said it was OE and seemed to be around $60 cheaper than OEM. Hopefully I get a good one, will send pics when I open it up.
I also chose to replace the thermostat (Borg Warner) while I'm at it and both belts (One is Bando, other is Continental) since those were getting up in age and cracking a little.
If you got any tips let me know, thanks in advance!
M111 FTW!

TheRotaryFox

Alright, this weekend was a lot of fun.
I was able to swap out both drive belts and the thermostat in like 10 minutes.
The water pump was somewhat easy, except for the hoses being extremely stuck onto the pump.
Now the car is all in one piece and awaits fresh coolant and a test drive.

PS. Would this coolant work?

TheRotaryFox

New water pump (Graf OE):






Old pump:

slammer111

Yes, Zerex G-05 is/was approved. Zerex G-48 is the latest approved coolant, but both can be mixed together without issues. Just use up whatever G-05 you have and buy G-48 going forward. You're good to go.

Any idea why your old coolant pump failed?

C230 Sport Coup

Yes, how many miles? Seems like 200K is the magic number for water and fuel pumps.
I've always used G-05 concentrate mixed with distilled water.
Pump looks about the same as mine.
I noticed FCP sells 2 pumps made in Italy this and Febi.
The Febi is less expensive. Probably the same mfg.
So Borg Warner makes the thermostat for these? I just replaced mine 1st time
at 255K. I had a Mercedes one that I bought years ago. Was stuck open. Engine took forever to warn up.
Now the heat comes up within a couple minutes, which is good in in cold weather.

TheRotaryFox

The old water pump still spins fine with no resistance or noise, so I think the bearing is still good.
I did find coolant in the pulley, so I think the bearing seal failed.
I am curious why there is scoring on the inside of the pump, any idea?

TheRotaryFox

I'm at 138k miles right now, the water pump has not been changed to me or my dad's knowledge.
Yeah, Borg Warner makes the thermostat according to FCP Euro, didn't have to change but wanted to do it to prevent a future headache.

I'm going to test the car later today, I can't wait.
I've missed driving my coupe, rowing the gears at full throttle, with the music blasting and supercharger screaming.

M111 FTW!

Martin03

I went to a junkyard today for my first time to look for a accelerator assembly as the sensor on mine was on its way out. Couldn't find a c class that still had theirs or matched mine. Actually ended up taking one from a 2007 s class. And it plugs in and works fine. The fitments slightly off so it's not bolted in at the moment. Also replaced the vacuum line to my MAF sensor as the old one was torn.

C230 Sport Coup

We moved from the big city to the country. I miss PicknPull.
All the little bits and pieces I pulled there.
I waited years for the 1st one to appear.
And now the nearest is hundreds of miles away.
It would be nice to pull a head off a junk car and have it ready to bolt on for
the head gasket job I need to do. Plus it would be great practice.

TheRotaryFox

Ever since I've started driving the coupe, I've been noticing that one in every couple of drives the car doesn't feel like it is running at its peak.
It seems to go away by itself, but it is happening more frequently and I'm getting worried.
This weekend, I'm planning on cleaning the MAF, inspecting the throttle positioning sensor, doing a recirc valve reset (thank you C230SportCoup for your various threads on that ), and replacing my spark plugs (its still on the same ones from the factory).
Hopefully, after I do all these my coupe will run better than ever and be more willing to keep up with my friend's new 2021 M440i.
Any recommendation for what spark plugs I should go with?

slammer111

I assume you checked the pump to make sure the rotating part didn't contact the housing?

It doesn't look like cavitation damage.

TheRotaryFox

The housing doesn't contact the rotating part.
I wonder if anyone else here as experienced this as well.

TheRotaryFox

I took out the injectors and inspected them, making sure I was getting proper fuel pressure.
Then I did a recirculation valve reset, and holy heck the car felt like it got a 50 horsepower boost!
It was monstrous and fun, but 3 days later its back to limp mode
No codes, no CEL, just no boost
Probably gonna redo the reset, see if the problem repeats, and then dig through the forums to see what the cause might be

112233

Cleaned the injectors with a 10 ml syringe with shrinking hose at the tip, carb cleaner, 12V battery + cable, wood with a 9 mm hole for my bench vice and a glass. The sharp 2 jets at the beginning transformed to a nice spray, like in the YT videos.
Ugliest part was to get the injectors out of the intake, all seized. All in all took me 4h. Need less fuel now in city driving and idles smooth.

112233

M111, right? Reset the flap again and start the car like this for the next days: Ignition on, wait 2 seconds, start. If the engine does not go into limp mode again, your flap needs internal cleaning of the flap motor.
If you close the flap with your finger the flap must snap open if you release it. There is somewhere a video of it on the forum.

TheRotaryFox

I've already started and driven the car around normally, should I perform the reset when it goes into limp mode again and then do this?
Do you also have any info on how to remove and clean the flap motor? Any tips or tricks?
Thanks for the info!

C230 Sport Coup

The stock plugs Mercedes sells (for much more) are NGK Laser Iridium 5344
Oriely has them for 18 each, or you can go Ebay and get a set for 52 here
https://ebay.us/GxHryF
I tried every kind of plug, different heat ranges, you name it, even ran copper for a while, the stock ones are
simply the best. Never misfire zip. I have 24K miles on them.
I find they're good for around 50K and then you start to get misfires, and seemingly bad
coilpacks, but actually it's the plugs the gap increases which strains the CP, and you aren't supposed to
adjust the gap on these. Just install them out of the box. I had a stack of "bad" coil packs which after replaciing
plugs become good again! It's the plugs. But just the same always keep a spare CP in your trunk.

So regarding your boost cut out, I suffered with this for years.
I replaced the recirc air flap TWICE (once under warranty)
and worked for a while and then not. If you want to purchase one
the Mercedes part number 1110980050. But the dealer MSRP is $1670.
YOW! Fear not, I know the Bosch part number which is Bosch 0280750467.
Summit racing has it for $318.00
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-0280750467
I bought mine at RockAuto for around the same price.
Lifetime warranty on that part from Bosch.
But in the end the thing that solved my no boost woes was a new
OEM NOS MAF never used Siemens dated coded from 2002 in the Mercedes box
for 50 bucks on Ebay! Mercedes PN is 1110940148. Lists for $448!
But you can get it here for $321.
https://www.mercedesbenzstarparts.co...sor-1110940148
I got lucky! I tried various brand of MAF's they all sucked! Don't get Bremi!
During that time I also replaced hoses, and O2 sensors, Cat.
I also had a supposedly new VDO one from Ebay shipped from UK which is supposedly what Mercedes sells, and wow, it just killed the car.
Could've been used or not Genuine, I don't know. Got a refund!
Original kept showing P0171 too lean, which in California is enough to get your car removed from the road!
So if you can find a Siemens that seems to be the best. I see some now on ebay but outrageously priced.
https://ebay.us/KY4iya
Take a close look and maybe you'll find one.
You not getting any codes is odd, because yes, I got one for the recirculating air flap, and too lean.
Of course clean the MAF 1st.

TheRotaryFox

I got the NGK 5344 for $9 each on rockauto, so a set for $36
Keep a spare coil pack? Might be something I need to do
Have you had any issues with the plastic on the coil pack connectors being too brittle and cracking?

Maybe I should go over to O Reilys and get that MAF cleaner and see if that fixes the issue.
Considering that almost everything on this car is original, it's a miracle it has come this far.
Knock on wood, maybe I have a more reliable coupe than the rest

112233

You can do the reset when ever you want. Remove the flap, open the clips oil/light grease the movable parts, clean the potentiometer, remove the motor with 2 torx screws, clean everything and oil the brass bearing at the bottom and the roller bearing at the top. It's a simple work. .

PS: The ignition coils are wearable parts too. If you see any cracks in the resin, buy all new. To my experience the NGK plugs are usually never the problem.