New timing chain tensioner
New timing chain tensioner
Good day all. I hope you all are doing well...to those in SA...hows the heat for you...huh!
On to the question at hand...replacing the timing chain tensioner with a new one. I drive a 2001 model C180 non kompressor, fitted with the M111.951 engine. For a while I started getting a slight rattle on start , which would go away after like 1 second or so. Removed the timing chain tensioner, took it apart and cleaned it out. Assembled everything and fitted it back as per videos on Youtube and EPC software. Problem persisted regardless of the effort. A few days ago I did my oil service, which was due, and the rattle seems to have gotten worse due to the slightly thinner oil being used....5w30.
I plan to purchase a brand new timing chain tensioner, but before I do...I cant seem to find any info even in the WIS software for replacing the tensioner with a new one. I know when taking the old one apart, pulley on 20 degrees before tdc and it has to be installed in a certain way. But how does one fit a new one....is there a certain procedure to follow? Can I just fit the new one as I take it out of the box/packaging?
Any help would be appreciated.
On to the question at hand...replacing the timing chain tensioner with a new one. I drive a 2001 model C180 non kompressor, fitted with the M111.951 engine. For a while I started getting a slight rattle on start , which would go away after like 1 second or so. Removed the timing chain tensioner, took it apart and cleaned it out. Assembled everything and fitted it back as per videos on Youtube and EPC software. Problem persisted regardless of the effort. A few days ago I did my oil service, which was due, and the rattle seems to have gotten worse due to the slightly thinner oil being used....5w30.
I plan to purchase a brand new timing chain tensioner, but before I do...I cant seem to find any info even in the WIS software for replacing the tensioner with a new one. I know when taking the old one apart, pulley on 20 degrees before tdc and it has to be installed in a certain way. But how does one fit a new one....is there a certain procedure to follow? Can I just fit the new one as I take it out of the box/packaging?
Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Nostradamus001; Mar 14, 2026 at 04:02 AM.
Open the oil filter and inspect the bottom of the filter element. If you see a dent at one side, spin the element around 180 deg and put it back. If the rattle is gone, you need a better oil filter from Hengst or Mercedes (which should be Hengst)
The anti drain valve is closed from the pressure of the bottom of the filter and if it is too weak it cannot and the oil drains from the filter housing. At start up the filter has to be filled again and you get oil pressure drop for 1-2 seconds.
The anti drain valve is closed from the pressure of the bottom of the filter and if it is too weak it cannot and the oil drains from the filter housing. At start up the filter has to be filled again and you get oil pressure drop for 1-2 seconds.
Brand new oil filter...literally done last week. Are there two tensioners on the M111 engine? Only knew of the one on the alternator side. Struggling to get that last piece back in...that spring is a pita!
There is an other check valve to keep the oil inside of the tensioner also leads to oil pressure drop at start-up. But this is hard to change, see video
My advice is to use a oil additive to clean this valve. I used Liqui Moly hydraulic valve lifter cleaner. After 1000 km I found lots of oil clumps in the oil filter.
My advice is to use a oil additive to clean this valve. I used Liqui Moly hydraulic valve lifter cleaner. After 1000 km I found lots of oil clumps in the oil filter.





