vadim

Thought this might be useful to other forum members. Lately I had been experiencing vibration in the steering wheel at speeds 60-65 mph and light vibration when braking at speeds 60-50 mph. The former I attributed to unbalanced wheels, whereas the latter was "obviously" a sign of "warped rotors" - at least that was the verdict from my dealer.

Well, I had since purchased a new pair of Michelin Pilot Sport tires, which did not fix the problem (although the vibration did subside). As for the "warped" rotors, I was going to replace them with x-drilled StopTech OEM-size rotors and a set of Mintex pads (none of which has arrived yet).

Long story short: the car recently went in for the front turn signal socket & harness update (warranty issue, fixed per MB TSB). While at it, I also requested full alignment (after recently installed springs settled properly). On the 2-nd day I was notified by the SA that there are problems in the front suspension. Turned out it was "thrust arm bushings cracked and leaking" (fixed).

Now both issues mentioned above are completely gone. The ride is smooth at any speed; no more brake vibration.

czachari

Weird that the bushings gave out already. Do you track your car?


CZ

vadim

~30Kmi. I do not track, but commute to Washington, D.C. on a daily basis For those who don't know - many streets in DC are in horrible condition, with lots of potholes and poorly applied patches.

I had a thought trying to figure out why they are out so early - maybe high tire pressure had something to do with it (I run 32F / 36R)? I also have AMG sway bars, but those can hardly be blamed - maybe only in combination with the first two factors. Still strange - unless it turns out to be a common problem.

StopTech

Glad you fixed your problem.

On a complete side note, if you are getting that warped rotor feeling, it may not be warped rotors. It could be uneven pad deposits on the rotor. This happens anytime the pads are heated up enough and an extra layer of pad material is left on rotor when the car comes to a complete stop.

vadim

I know, "warped rotors" thing is a common misconception. In my case it was neither - the rotors have not been changed, but the vibration is gone.

XenonBenz

Okay, so I thought I would revive this thread in case anyone else is having this same problem. I hit a really bad pothole about a month ago, which severly bent 2 of my OEM sport wheels on the passenger side, along with a popped tire. I ordered some replica CLS 17" wheels from Discount Tire, and I got this strange vibration in the steering wheel driving between 50-65. I also had vibration while braking between 75-55, but not at any other speeds.

I got a Roadforce balance done on the wheels, (and rotated my tires to make sure it wasn't a bad tire) which helped with the vibration, but didn't get rid of it completely. Then I got a 4 wheel alignment, replaced tie rods and sway bar links, and had the whole suspension checked out. This still didn't get rid of the vibration. I also noticed that my tire's started "cupping" from uneven wear, which was strange given I just got an alignment and Roadforce balance done.

I didn't think it made sense that warped rotors would cause vibration while driving. My car is going back to my mechanic Friday, and hopefully it's the thrust arm bushings that are causing this problem, because driving my car on the highway right now is irritating with the vibration! Will update status on Friday!

avlis

Try this:

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...t=leak+bushing

Bad lower control arm bushing will cause cupping.

mleskovar

FYI...if you're planning on doing them yourself. A Craftsman 3/4" drive, 2" socket can be used to remove the old bushing and push in the new one but you have to be VERY careful about keeping it centered (I wrecked one new bushing putting it in when it slipped off and I kept tightening). I used a three jaw bearing puller which was a mistake. A two jaw puller would work better. Bushings are $25 online and $43 from MB.